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That picture of the shaft length is the one I posted, we had a big discussion about this. The other problem is I don't think Cardone rebuilds use a new shaft, so there is wear inside were the pump shaft engages, that allows the oil pump shaft to twist slightly inside the dist shaft and causes them to bind to each other.
I saw a new distributor shaft on Ebay but they wanted some ridiculous price for it.
No, they are good ole NOS FoMoCo from the 60s. The only problem might be is they are the '57 style that use the comma shaped centrifugal weights. These are a little tougher to source. And the reluctor or cam, practically unobtanium.
Something being overlooked in this discussion is what oil pump type and vendor (OEM - aftermarket) used in assembly. There are differing lengths of shafts to compliment the differing pumps. The ARP shaft seems to be a one-fit-all that the manufacturer didn't realize (or consider) the difference(s) when produced.
Following is a compilation of posts made by TED EATON -
There are two basic oil pump styles for the Ford Y. The 1954 Ford and Mercury Y engines were introduced with a spur gear pump that had a cast iron housing. During the 1956 model year, the 312 engines started receiving the gerotor pump that utilizes an aluminum housing. By 1957 all the Ford Y’s are using the gerotor style of pump and this continued through the end of the Y’s production run. Comes 1958, Ford introduces two new engine designs (FE & M-E-L) and these are also utilizing the gerotor style of pump. Many years later, the gerotor pump style is now an industry standard for all engines. To complicate the oil pump availability for the Y, the aftermarket companies only produce the spur gear style of pump which is simply less expensive to manufacture. Hence the reasoning why the GM engines used that pump style for as long as they did. Rebuild kits for the Ford Y-Block gerotor pumps are still available so rebuilding those older aluminum pumps is still a viable option.
Checking oil pump shaft free play is a prerequisite while prepping for engine assembly. I prefer a minimum of 0.075” free play and really don’t have a maximum value as long as there is what would be deemed adequate penetration at both ends of the shaft. The key here is for some end-play to be present and not having a shaft that is sandwiched tightly or with zero free play between the oil pump and distributor which promotes both premature oil pump and distributor gear wear. A ¼” of penetration at the distributor end on a Y should be adequate but this has to be with a given amount of free play being present.
TED EATON
DIST shaft end-play is crucial after both rebuild and after install. The drive-shaft length will have bearing on proper install.
If using a CARDONE SBF assy, you would naturally need a longer shaft (once the driven gear is positioned correctly).
11-15-2019, 07:41 AM
