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Bought 2019 Escape SE AWD over Labor Day. Was dealer car with 3500 miles on it. Wife loves it. BUT...besides the SYNC screen not working once in awhile the check engine light came on yesterday. Had an appointment at dealer to check on SYNC screen. Discovered coolant in engine. Only fix is REPLACE ENGINE. Seriously!!?? It has only been two months. I don't want a new car with an engine replacement! Do I have any recourse?? Any leverage to get a replacement car? Under warranty but still....come on...an engine replacement???!!
I don't know about California, but in New York, if that "dealer car" was ever titled then it couldn't be sold as a new car. It seems hard to believe that a customer demo would have 3500 miles on it, or did one of the salesmen slap dealer plates on it and drive it for a year? Some states also have laws about demo cars as well. There's a mileage limit even if never titled that if exceeded makes the first sale a used vehicle.
Regardless, you still have the factory warranty. You might have actually lucked out if the dealer wants to replace the engine rather than repair it under warranty. Would you really want an engine that was rebuilt in the dealership?
As far as a buyback goes, laws vary from state to state but you would probably need to show that the vehicle suffered from the same problem multiple times to get Ford's attention for a buy back. Check your state's lemon laws. You might try arguing that the dealer knew there was something wrong with the car when he sold it to you since the problem showed up so quickly after purchase, but good luck with that argument. It doesn't hurt to try. Get the Ford area office involved.
Bought 2019 Escape SE AWD over Labor Day. Was dealer car with 3500 miles on it. Wife loves it. BUT...besides the SYNC screen not working once in awhile the check engine light came on yesterday. Had an appointment at dealer to check on SYNC screen. Discovered coolant in engine. Only fix is REPLACE ENGINE. Seriously!!?? It has only been two months. I don't want a new car with an engine replacement! Do I have any recourse?? Any leverage to get a replacement car? Under warranty but still....come on...an engine replacement???!!
It’s a problem with the water pumps. They are driven off the timing chain instead of the serpentine belt so they are tucked under the timing covers. The bearings are failing and dumping coolant into the oil via the weep hole. If yours didn’t blow up then consider yourself lucky - by the time most people discover the problem; the engine is already toast.
Ford is replacing the engines with failed water pumps because there’s no way to know how much damage has been done. If they just replace the water pump, you may not even make it home and then they’ll have to replace the engine anyway.
Can I ask how or where you learned about the water pump issue? Thanks!
I’m a tech at an independent shop. A few months ago one of our customers wanted us to replace the water pump on a new-to-him Explorer with a 3.5 (can’t remember the exact year but it was less than 3-4 years old). When I found the labor was something like 9 hours I asked my boss why we were doing this if the pump is good and he told me about the issue and that the customer wanted to do it as preventative maintenance.
I’ve been meaning to read up on it a little more since then but haven’t had time.
Ford decided to cheap out and put the pump inside the timing cover to save space and also save money by casting the mount into the block. It would have taken engineering time, space, and more money to mount the pump somewhere outside the engine. All of their sideways sitting 4 and 6 cylinder engines have this design. I have one in our 3.5 Edge. I knew this when I bought mine, so it's on me if I messed up.
I keep a close watch on the antifreeze tank, and also had the oil analyzed the last oil change as a test for water.
I would make sure you get a NEW engine and not a reman. You don't know who or how a reman was repaired. At your mileage and it being new, you SHOULD get new. I would settle for nothing less.
Ford just replaced the engine in my daughters leased 17 Escape. Took them 3 months. Ford gave her a rental to drive.
By the time it was finished the lease was up and she turned it in.
Holy crap! What years and engines I'm freaked out? And what are they going to replace them with, the same thing that will fail again?
The wife has a 2016 1.4 Eco-boost with 25000 miles so far.
I have a 2002 V6 Escape with a timing chain, does it have this potential water pump problem?
Steve
No. The water pump on your engine is on the opposite end from the timing chains. It is external to the engine and driven off a pulley mounted to the end of the exhaust camshaft on the front bank. It’s mounted just above the transmission.
Originally Posted by hiball3985
Holy crap! What years and engines I'm freaked out? And what are they going to replace them with, the same thing that will fail again?
The wife has a 2016 1.4 Eco-boost with 25000 miles so far.
All good questions. I’m not sure what year this started but I do know it’s the 3.5 and 3.7 V6 engines that are affected for sure. The water pumps are completely encased by the timing cover and driven off the timing chain - as a result the weep holes are also inside the timing cover, so when the bearing fails it drains coolant directly into the oil pan.
I was looking at the WP removal procedure for your wife’s 1.6 (no 1.4 listed for the 2016 escape) and it doesn’t look like you have anything to worry about. The water pump is under the timing cover but the 1.6 is uses a timing belt not a chain and is still external to the engine. However I advise you to call/stop in to a Ford dealer with the VIN and double check. They are handling these warranty claims on a case by case basis (to the best of my knowledge) so if there is an issue, beginning documentation now can only benefit you.
The 3.5 in the Edge, Explorer, ect, that sit sideways, all have the internal water pump. From what I have read, they seem to last anywhere from 80k to 180k miles. At least from 2012 they revised the water pump with a double roller chain and heavier bearings. There is a small weep hole that exits behind the alternator, so if parking in a garage, a person should be able to catch early leakage, or if checking the antifreeze fill tank, there are distinct add and fill lines that can be used when the engine is cold to make sure no coolant is lost.
The real problem arises when driving and the main water pump bearing goes all at once. The first sign of this is a check engine light. By then it's too late.
DBGrif91, thanks for answering my question. I shouldn't have burdened the forum with something I could've looked up but the whole thing just freaked me out so I asked here. Thanks again for helping to allay my fears.
Steve
PS It never ceases to amaze me about the things car manufacturers do to save money and then use the consumer as their beta test group. I quit buying new cars back in the 80's when I became disenchanted at what was being churned out by manufacturers. I finally figured out that it was a better idea to buy a good high quality used car for the same or less money.
No. The water pump on your engine is on the opposite end from the timing chains. It is external to the engine and driven off a pulley mounted to the end of the exhaust camshaft on the front bank. It’s mounted just above the transmission.
All good questions. I’m not sure what year this started but I do know it’s the 3.5 and 3.7 V6 engines that are affected for sure. The water pumps are completely encased by the timing cover and driven off the timing chain - as a result the weep holes are also inside the timing cover, so when the bearing fails it drains coolant directly into the oil pan.
I was looking at the WP removal procedure for your wife’s 1.6 (no 1.4 listed for the 2016 escape) and it doesn’t look like you have anything to worry about. The water pump is under the timing cover but the 1.6 is uses a timing belt not a chain and is still external to the engine. However I advise you to call/stop in to a Ford dealer with the VIN and double check. They are handling these warranty claims on a case by case basis (to the best of my knowledge) so if there is an issue, beginning documentation now can only benefit you.
Thank you for that information. I guess it is a 1.6, I really don't keep up on new cars and only drive and work on old ones
My friends wife just bought a 2019 so I'll inform him. Is it the bearing that fails or a seal or both?
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