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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Lets talk lifters!

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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 11:42 AM
  #31  
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Jack’s statement is what made me question if the lifters are prone to failure and in turn begin to wear on the cam or the cam wears then causes the lifter failure...
”The progressive failure of lifter roller surfaces, which I think may have a lower rate, it's the cam that fails first.” - TMT
 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 01:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Frosstyx
Only reason I am going S&B is because the truck currently has an Airaid system that has an oiled filter, so Im changing it out to a dry system.

so you are saying since mine is an early 2003 6.0 that my cam should be good?

Good call on the S&B under that scenario. Depends on how deep you are going with the engine but do inspect the cam surface somehow someway.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 01:19 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Maxium4x4
Good call on the S&B under that scenario. Depends on how deep you are going with the engine but do inspect the cam surface somehow someway.
I bought one if these and it has been awesome for inspecting dark, tight areas.
https://www.depstech.com/wf020x-wate...e-black-11.5ft
 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 01:58 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
Jack’s statement is what made me question if the lifters are prone to failure and in turn begin to wear on the cam or the cam wears then causes the lifter failure...
”The progressive failure of lifter roller surfaces, which I think may have a lower rate, it's the cam that fails first.” - TMT
Yep, Im still confused, lol. One of you fine gentlemen mind clarifying? Im OK with going new cam as I have seen/think it can be replaced and timed properly without cracking open bottom of engine... at least it appears you can based on the below video.

I dunno, I tend to over analyze EVERYTHING.

 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 02:51 PM
  #35  
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My position

There are failures of the cam lobes and lifters on the 6.0, which is at a higher rate than the 7.3 (rare). We know that from the occasional posting of failure in forums. It's nothing like the failure rate of head gaskets, but it happens.

I didn't say there are no lifter failures, I said there's more of a probability of a lobe failure the lifter failure in my current viewpoint. And while flipping lifters that look perfectly good on the outside may be a prudent and not so inexpensive step to take, I really, really think people when they have the heads off should also look carefully at the lobes to see if there is an impending failure coming up. Based on my 2003 cam, one 2003 ebay cam and the comments of 6.0 cam manufacturers, the design of the cams has an issue on the ramps. The engineering analysis talks about scuffing on-ramps leading to failure, and looking at eBay use cams and failed cams of different forum members, with the 2004.5+ cams I haven't observed the same scuffing/scoring/galling.

Again, it's prudent to look at the cam when you can. Some fail at 150k miles, some 500k and some 800k+ miles, but it's a low amount. You don't need to flip cams out unless they look like a problem.
 

Last edited by TooManyToys.; Nov 14, 2019 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Rambling due to lack of sleep......hell the whole thread is me Rambling .....
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 02:53 PM
  #36  
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Frosty, you can pull that rear part of the crank off if you want to - GO FOR IT!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 03:09 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TooManyToys.
Frosty, you can pull that rear part of the crank off if you want to - GO FOR IT!!!!!!!!
LOL, I deduce from your comment that trying this is the equivalent of the actions that proceed after such statements as - “hey yall watch this” or “hold my beer”.

For the record, Im not doing any of this work. A man who has been a diesel mechanic for 27 years is... Im just the man handing him thousands of dollars...
 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 03:18 PM
  #38  
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Yes, it is.

I think I could get it back, but I'd be nervous considering all the warnings.

I also would not be welding the gear on the cam.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2019 | 08:22 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by SmackDaddy
Jack’s statement is what made me question if the lifters are prone to failure and in turn begin to wear on the cam or the cam wears then causes the lifter failure...
”The progressive failure of lifter roller surfaces, which I think may have a lower rate, it's the cam that fails first.” - TMT
It's all Jack's fault...as usual.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 01:46 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Frosstyx
Yep, Im still confused, lol. One of you fine gentlemen mind clarifying? Im OK with going new cam as I have seen/think it can be replaced and timed properly without cracking open bottom of engine... at least it appears you can based on the below video.

I dunno, I tend to over analyze EVERYTHING.

https://youtu.be/Ke_iZEuFDq8

how much room is between the cam end and the motor rear cover? welding would be the last thing I would do.
I guess the cam is only superficially hardened? You could cut a thread in the center of the cam and machine a washer (red part) and glue in the screw connection (green part) high-strength (srew=screw )





 
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 01:57 PM
  #41  
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Yeah people are concerned with throwing the balance off then you see guys welding fat beads on the end of the camshaft...not comprehending that thinking!
good idea Hartwig, it would work much better than welding.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 02:26 PM
  #42  
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the wheel could also be shrunk on???? (is it the right word?) shrunk on= Heat the hole to 400°F and then place it on the cam.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 02:33 PM
  #43  
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In high rpm operation, the cam gears have walked off the cam. But welding adds in more stresses then I care for. I've not known of one situation with normal street running that one has walked off.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 02:43 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Hartwig
the wheel could also be shrunk on???? (is it the right word?) shrunk on= Heat the hole to 400°F and then place it on the cam.
I think it’s supposed to be coated with green Loctite?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2019 | 03:00 PM
  #45  
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I'm sure for the install they just press them on. But most pressed on pulleys or gears have a limited install factor. The power steering pulleys a good example, I think the service manual says 2 service installs and them it's been too worn for a reliable hold. The interesting thing with Int or Ford is they don't sell the gear, but they only sell the camshaft with a gear installed.

For us using an aftermarket camshaft, they are sold without the gear, and all the vendors state to reuse the gear. When I first tried to flip the gear I heated it up to expand it. No go, it was going to need t to be pressured on, just like the power steering pulleys.

I added to use the Locktite. Its what I've been instructed on with other applications, and I just would not do a gear like this without it.
 
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