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Jack’s statement is what made me question if the lifters are prone to failure and in turn begin to wear on the cam or the cam wears then causes the lifter failure...
”The progressive failure of lifter roller surfaces, which I think may have a lower rate, it's the cam that fails first.” - TMT
Jack’s statement is what made me question if the lifters are prone to failure and in turn begin to wear on the cam or the cam wears then causes the lifter failure...
”The progressive failure of lifter roller surfaces, which I think may have a lower rate, it's the cam that fails first.” - TMT
Yep, Im still confused, lol. One of you fine gentlemen mind clarifying? Im OK with going new cam as I have seen/think it can be replaced and timed properly without cracking open bottom of engine... at least it appears you can based on the below video.
There are failures of the cam lobes and lifters on the 6.0, which is at a higher rate than the 7.3 (rare). We know that from the occasional posting of failure in forums. It's nothing like the failure rate of head gaskets, but it happens.
I didn't say there are no lifter failures, I said there's more of a probability of a lobe failure the lifter failure in my current viewpoint. And while flipping lifters that look perfectly good on the outside may be a prudent and not so inexpensive step to take, I really, really think people when they have the heads off should also look carefully at the lobes to see if there is an impending failure coming up. Based on my 2003 cam, one 2003 ebay cam and the comments of 6.0 cam manufacturers, the design of the cams has an issue on the ramps. The engineering analysis talks about scuffing on-ramps leading to failure, and looking at eBay use cams and failed cams of different forum members, with the 2004.5+ cams I haven't observed the same scuffing/scoring/galling.
Again, it's prudent to look at the cam when you can. Some fail at 150k miles, some 500k and some 800k+ miles, but it's a low amount. You don't need to flip cams out unless they look like a problem.
Last edited by TooManyToys.; Nov 14, 2019 at 08:16 PM.
Reason: Rambling due to lack of sleep......hell the whole thread is me Rambling .....
Frosty, you can pull that rear part of the crank off if you want to - GO FOR IT!!!!!!!!
LOL, I deduce from your comment that trying this is the equivalent of the actions that proceed after such statements as - “hey yall watch this” or “hold my beer”.
For the record, Im not doing any of this work. A man who has been a diesel mechanic for 27 years is... Im just the man handing him thousands of dollars...
Jack’s statement is what made me question if the lifters are prone to failure and in turn begin to wear on the cam or the cam wears then causes the lifter failure...
”The progressive failure of lifter roller surfaces, which I think may have a lower rate, it's the cam that fails first.” - TMT
Yep, Im still confused, lol. One of you fine gentlemen mind clarifying? Im OK with going new cam as I have seen/think it can be replaced and timed properly without cracking open bottom of engine... at least it appears you can based on the below video.
how much room is between the cam end and the motor rear cover? welding would be the last thing I would do.
I guess the cam is only superficially hardened? You could cut a thread in the center of the cam and machine a washer (red part) and glue in the screw connection (green part) high-strength (srew=screw )
Yeah people are concerned with throwing the balance off then you see guys welding fat beads on the end of the camshaft...not comprehending that thinking!
good idea Hartwig, it would work much better than welding.
In high rpm operation, the cam gears have walked off the cam. But welding adds in more stresses then I care for. I've not known of one situation with normal street running that one has walked off.
I'm sure for the install they just press them on. But most pressed on pulleys or gears have a limited install factor. The power steering pulleys a good example, I think the service manual says 2 service installs and them it's been too worn for a reliable hold. The interesting thing with Int or Ford is they don't sell the gear, but they only sell the camshaft with a gear installed.
For us using an aftermarket camshaft, they are sold without the gear, and all the vendors state to reuse the gear. When I first tried to flip the gear I heated it up to expand it. No go, it was going to need t to be pressured on, just like the power steering pulleys.
I added to use the Locktite. Its what I've been instructed on with other applications, and I just would not do a gear like this without it.
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