The solenoid body does not command lockup. The PCM commands the solenoid body to lock the converter. It can only do what the PCM makes it do.

 

Ok another update;

Received my ordered Pig Tail for the tranny connector.
Numbered the wires as per drawing.
Tested all pins for grounding - All good no with grounding detected.

Done the following OHMS testing:
Shift solenoid #1: Testing across Pin #1 (RD/YE) with Pin # 3 (OG/YE) : reading 19.6 OHMS
Shift Solenoid #2: Testing across Pin #1 (RD/YE) with Pin # 2 (VT/OG) : reading 20.0 OHMS
Coast Clutch Solenoid Pin #5: Testing across Pin #1 (RD/YE) with Pin# 5 : Reading 19.6 OHMS
EPC Solenoid Pin #11: Testing across Pin #11 with Pin # 12 : Reading 4.9 OHMS
TFT Sensor @ 21C to 40C : Testing across Pin #7 with Pin #8 : reading 43.2 OHMS

Now the instructions are a little confusing when it comes to the TCC.
The instructions given states that both tests for the TCC On/Off Solenoid and the TCC PWM Solenoid be tested across Pin #1 and Pin #4.
This cannot be the same for both, as TCC On/Off Solenoid should test between 20-30 OHMS and the TCC PWM Solenoid should test between 10-20 OHMS.
The results I got when testing across Pin #1 and Pin #4 was 14 OHMS so I'm presuming that that is for the TCC PWM Solenoid?
So how to test the TCC On/Off Solenoid?

The testing was done twice with two different multimeters just to double check.
Shift Solenoids 1&2 and the Coast Clutch Solenoid should have produced readings between 20 - 30 OHMS but all have readings outside the desired.
No instruction on testing TCC On/Off Solenoid. So no results to show there.
Could this testing indicate a faulty Solenoid Pack?

Now fellas; Quote from the Missus : Are ya gunna fix the truck before dementia sets in, or at least before you end up barking mad tryin'

So let's lift fellas, it's a team effort

 

Good evening @Diesel Submariner

As you have noted, shift solenoids 1 & 2 are just outside nominal. This may explain why you are getting the intermittent short circuit error codes.
The top left paragraph on the document @ajbrown208 posted says you have either a TCC On/Off or PWM TCC, not both. It sounds like you have a PWM TCC solenoid in there.

You may know this already so apologies if I am preaching to the choir: Do NOT cut the old pigtail off wholesale when you are replacing it. The wires on the new pigtail may not be color-coded the same as your current one. Cut one wire at a time, quadruple check to make sure you connect to the wire going to the same position on the connector, then make the connection and insulate with weatherproof heatshrink. Rinse and repeat for the rest of the wires until all are done. Personally, I like these solder heat shrink sleeves that do all of that in one step:

 

The on/off solenoid went out of production in the US in 1999. It probably followed soon after down under. You can only have one or the other, not both.

 

As FordTruckNoob has mentioned, cut and splice one wire at a time, making sure you have the correct wire for the corresponding pin. And stagger your splices also, or you will end up with a dog knot in the middle of the wire harness.

 

Top is Non PWM(F81P-7G391-BA) and the bottom is PWM(F81P-7G391-CB)

 

Diesel Submariner. I agree with you. It appears that you have the PWM solenoid pack in your transmission according to the ohmic value 0f 14 ohms at pins 1 and 4. But 43.2 ohms at pins 7 and 8 are way out of range. If that value is being seen by the PCM, your transmission is well over 150 degrees Celsius. An engineer (Mark) might be able to tell you if that would prevent the truck from moving. Tell us the fluid level is good, and some maintenance to the tranny.

 

Oops, my bad typo, the reading on the TFT across Pins 7&8 most probably should read 43K OHMS which would be good for a fluid temp 0 to 20C (32 to 68F).
But I will re-test.
Yes I have realised that I have the PWM Solenoid and it is testing correct.

I did splice the new connector on and as instructed. Cut one wire at a time to ensure correct wire match up. I soldered each join (staggered) and used double wall thick adhesive heat shrink.
All fits neatly back into the loom split casing.
I haven't started the truck to prove the connection as I did this late last night. I have to fit this truck issue around other commitments and I apologise for it getting drawn out.

So, does anybody feel that the Solenoid Pack is faulty enough due to the readings on the Shift Solenoids to be causing the symptoms? Mark, your thoughts on this?
I do have a new Solenoid Pack on the way.

Fluid level is good and I've always maintained the tranny and done fluid flush and filter changes at recommended intervals. I've had a JWVB from Clay in for 9 years and a 100,000Km. Have used full synthetic fluid for 10 years and 116,000Km. I've always used Castrol Transmax 'Z' Full Synthetic Fluid. I is the preferred fluid over here and is recommended for the 4R100 transmissions by Castrol. I did a full change only 4,000Km ago.
I have never had transmission issues until now?

Reg

 

When you take the pan off, make sure the magnetic is in place. Some stuck valves may keep it from going into first or second, but I don't know how it shifts into reverse.

 

There is no solenoid or sensor that could keep the transmission from moving.

The only valve used to shift into reverse is the manual valve. That is the one that is mechanically connected to the shift handle. There is no combination of stuck valves that will keep it from moving forward, either. It may not go to first gear, but it can still move starting in a higher gear.

 

Thank you Mark and AJ for your help in trying to solve this issue.

Well after replacing the connector I started her up and there is no change in symptoms to date.
That is OD Light starts blinking about 30 Sec in. There is no issue selecting gears Reverse, Neutral, Drive, 2nd, 1st. It just that in any gear except Park and Neutral there is little or no throttle response.
Full response and revs in Park and Neutral.

Checked for codes and still only get P0603 and no sign of original Transmission Code P1747.

So Fellas those OHMS readings; Could they be indicating that the Solenoid Pack is indeed faulty?
If P0603 is the only code that has been coming up after every start now indicate that the PCM is faulty?

Going back to my early posts on this thread I mentioned I'd been having Cruise Control issues for some time, Code P0500 showed and I changed the VSS.
A number of other Enhanced Powertrain codes popped up but all have since not shown with the exception of P0603 which continues to come up every time???
The batteries have been connected for a couple of days now.

So do I start looking for a PCM??

Reg.

 

So it won't rev in any gear but N & P? That don't make sense to me. When mine did this I had it rebuilt. But it would Rev in all gears just didn't move. After it sat for a week, It moved so I could get it on the flat bed. And yes it was full of ATF. You can try the Solenoid Pack but I think your throwing dollars at it. I hope I'm wrong, but it looks that way to me.

 

If the PCM doesn't see that the drive or reverse engagement has completed it won't allow the engine to rev. That's why it won't rev in gear. The next thing to do is to look at the turbine speed sensor.
I wouldn't waste money on replacing the solenoid body. There is no indication at all that it's faulty.

 

Ok Mark I'll not change out the Solenoid Pack.
The Turbine Speed Sensor. Where is it located. I presume it is the sensor I can see down below the Turbo Compressor near the Turbo Pedestal?

So enlighten me on why the constant P0603 Code??

Reg.

 

No, the turbine speed sensor is on the transmission. It reads the speed of the input shaft right after the torque converter. It is on top of the trans, just to the rear of the bellhousing.

The P0603 means that the PCM's self check has determined that the keep alive memory in the PCM is not correct. If you have a chip or a tuner you will get this code. If neither has been installed it could mean that the PCM is bad.