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Both sides were washed out between cylinders.
I drove over 30k with slightly compromised head gaskets and could only make it puke if I really got on it hard. I don’t recommend this, they could have let go at any time and done real damage. Get the gauge so you can monitor and be sure!
Did you hand-guided machine the sealing surface on the block?
Did you hand-guided machine the sealing surface on the block?
Yes I did. I spent over 7 hours on each side lapping with a honing stone, KRoil, Wd-40 and finished with 120 grit. I got tolerances within .001” and gauged with a machined straightedge and feeler gauge. Holding up for 8,000 miles now.
Diagonal lapping finish strokes with 120 grit. Yes I cleaned the piston tops before buttoning up! Fitting head gaskets and studs UCF O-ringed heads Heads on Dressing
I really like that. can you please send me more detailed information about the tools and resources used? What did you use to plan the block? Are there drawings for the lifting devices? Gladly by PM . Thanks.
I really like that. can you please send me more detailed information about the tools and resources used? What did you use to plan the block? Are there drawings for the lifting devices? Gladly by PM . Thanks.
Why by PM? Don't you think everyone would like to see it?
I didn’t want to hijack your thread but I can post info if you guys want it.
I had a Driven Diesel regulated return on my truck and then built a custom 6.7L fuel pump system and used the rear hard lines, stainless braided flex hoses and regulator and tied in my own fuel lines to the front of the heads and through the regulator and back through the return to tank.
I’m planning on building these custom 6.7 fuel system kits at some point so guys can just buy a kit that fits their truck instead of piecing it all together and not getting the correct parts, too few parts, too much hose etc. Notice my secondary fuel filter housing is gone.
I can post some parts and photos of the block lapping as well. Give me a while, busy at work today!
Primary 6.7 fuel pump/filter/water separator and secondary 2 micron CAT filter (takes the place of the under hood fuel filter and regulator). The 6.7 filter when removed shuts fuel off so it’s a clean filter change. Stainless ball valves to shut off fuel when changing secondary filter. I made a full custom fuel system harness that ties into the HFCM harness and includes the fuel pump relay, water in fuel sensor and fused power to 6.7 pump. Tinned marine wire and relays solder heat shrink connectors and Tesa heat tape wrap over split loom. Where the HFCM used to be... Buttoning up under hood after getting the engine back in and installing fuel system and coolant return system.
Why did you rebuild the fuel system? Pictures of the block lapping and of the coolant return on the heads would interest me, thank you
The HFCM wasn’t enough to keep up with 175/30 injectors, fuel pressure would drop too much.
I’ll get photos of the lapping tools I used when I get to the shop. Toomanytoys has a video of his technique, I used some of his method but not exactly the same tools.
Yeah, this should be split out by a mod and moved, its a sidetrack.
My block video, I haven't publically released the heads video since I going through the progression of the motor.
It's an adaptable procedure, the lapping plate is not exclusive. Any plate or object as flat as possible with good width. Grizzly sells small surface plates that can be used for around $30.
Besides puking were there any other signs your HGs were failing? Were there any strange noises? And how did you know it was finally time to address the problem? Was that the point when your exhaust started to be visible?
I installed a manual gauge and after warming the engine up I’d open the degas cap and relieve all pressure then drive it hard and watch the pressure rise to 16-18psi then vent if I really romped it.
No change in exhaust because the combustion gas pressure was higher than the cooling system pressure. The only time you get coolant in cylinders the opposite way is if there’s a cracked head and the coolant flows in with the engine off.
No strange noises other than the venting degas cap when I really romped it.
I had too much money in the engine not to take care of it and do some other mods while the engine was out. I did it all solo, take your time and be smart and you can do it. I’d never want to do this with the engine in unless I removed the cab but with an Excursion I really didn’t like that option!
Dang, Smack, nice work. So all of y'all know, I do appreciate all the talent here and understand how all my boneheading around has to seem like a waste of good trucks to y'all. My brain just doesn't work this way, even when I was younger and could remember to zip my pants. I did have talents (selling crap, and later, writing BS), and they even paid more in my day than most people make even now, but I pissed all the money away on women, fancy cars, clothes, big house, huge parties, and other worthless crap. Now, looking back, I wish I'd been born with y'all's brains instead, and had some regular job, regular house, decent wife, and nice truck.
But, I digress...
Was going to suggest, fuzzy, the simple bubble test - rubber plug in the degas, with air hose to the jug of water that's supposed to tell you whether you have bad gaskets or EGR. I think the vid is by BPD, and it's in a couple of my threads. I think Mark or Sean posted the link for me.
That's actually the classic test, used for at this point probably 100 years. I saw a farmer do that more than 50 years ago. But it's typically done with the vehicle parked, which is telling of a fully compromised gasket. It's a good test, but we often need something a little more decerning so we can catch an early failure with our high-pressure motors, which will puke under high load conditions. So you can do the coolant bubble test but run a longer hose to a bottle hanging on the mirror extensions, or a low-pressure gauge. A temporary 20-50psi gauge is fine or installed if you want to permanently monitor the motor condition, even if it may take 100-300k miles to develop.
had too much money in the engine not to take care of it and do some other mods while the engine was out. I did it all solo, take your time and be smart and you can do it. I’d never want to do this with the engine in unless I removed the cab but with an Excursion I really didn’t like that option!
As much as I would prefer to do the work myself I just don't have a place to do it, or an engine hoist, or stand. The idea of paying a "professional" to do the work is the stuff my nightmares are made of, for fear of them taking shortcuts. I have no doubt I could do a great job of hand lapping the decks, but I'm not that savvy when it comes to rebuilding engines. What do I do if I pull the heads and find a problem with one of the cylinders or pistons? Or god forbid, even one issue that Jack ran into with his rebuild. Send it out to a shop, hope for the best, and hope they don't take a month turning it around while I'm out of work because I can't work without a truck. Yes, I'm playing devil's advocate but I can't afford to get stuck like that. Taking it to a shop is going to be a very hard pill to swallow but I don't see a way around it.
On a more positive note, I don't have a problem with you posting more of your pics and info here. It's all good. After all, when it comes to the 6.0, puking degas bottles and engine rebuilds are very closely related topics are they not?
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