Rust Removal
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Rust Removal
Hey guys just curious to what products you all used to remove minor body rust? I'll be sanding down my truck late December during my vacation in the garage & wanted to see what products seemed to work best without dishing $25+ per bottle.
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It just some minor surface rust on the cab between the Back window & driver door. I can't get a picture at the moment. We use Rustillo here at my job (Caterpillar Machine shop) for rust removal but can find it off the shelf.
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From: Virginia
Do you plan on patching it up with paint? If so, I would sand it down smooth, get a can of automotive primer and prime it, then you probably will need to sand it and primer again for places you might have missed before, and repeat till you get it right. Then get a can of matching paint and paint it. Some of the paint shops will make a spray can in your color for you. Let it dry for a day, if it's not up to par, color sand it and paint it again. Once you are done, let it dry for a couple of weeks, and the get some rubbing compound and rub it out and blend it in.
If you don't want to blend it in, pick a spot on the truck, something like the seam at the top at the drip rail, and a strip or body line down at the bottom, and using masking tape and paper to mask off the rest of the truck, and use those two spots as the transition between new paint and old paint.
If you don't want to blend it in, pick a spot on the truck, something like the seam at the top at the drip rail, and a strip or body line down at the bottom, and using masking tape and paper to mask off the rest of the truck, and use those two spots as the transition between new paint and old paint.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
Do you plan on patching it up with paint? If so, I would sand it down smooth, get a can of automotive primer and prime it, then you probably will need to sand it and primer again for places you might have missed before, and repeat till you get it right. Then get a can of matching paint and paint it. Some of the paint shops will make a spray can in your color for you. Let it dry for a day, if it's not up to par, color sand it and paint it again. Once you are done, let it dry for a couple of weeks, and the get some rubbing compound and rub it out and blend it in.
If you don't want to blend it in, pick a spot on the truck, something like the seam at the top at the drip rail, and a strip or body line down at the bottom, and using masking tape and paper to mask off the rest of the truck, and use those two spots as the transition between new paint and old paint.
If you don't want to blend it in, pick a spot on the truck, something like the seam at the top at the drip rail, and a strip or body line down at the bottom, and using masking tape and paper to mask off the rest of the truck, and use those two spots as the transition between new paint and old paint.
Read this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-repair.html
Dave ----
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From: Virginia
The thing is you need to treat the rust before top coating.
Read this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-repair.html
Dave ----
Read this post https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-repair.html
Dave ----
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I eventually will have the truck painted, IDK by who yet but I wanted to get most of the sanding "Pep work" done myself other than like any minor bondo (No experience) work that might be needed. Being I'll have 3 straight weeks off & paid I figured it be an ideal time to sand down the body myself. I was going to is a 5"orbital palm sander (320 Grit) to sand down the truck, wasn't sure if I were to use a rust removal product over that portion of rust or just hit it with the sander with no product.
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Brett Foote
FTE Legend
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From: Angier, NC
I would grind/sand/wire brush/mechanically remove the rust. If you have deep scratches or any pitting left but no holes, I would prime it. Then I would get spot putty and go over the pits and scratches with the spot putty. Let it dry, sand it, and then prime it again. Then let it dry for a few days, then top coat it..
Then you have to kill it with either an acid or encapsulate it, primer will not kill it.
Also note not all primers can you put filler over. Now spot or glazing putty I think would be OK but you have to check with the supplier on what can be used with what.
I am old school on my body supplies so I know my Nitro Stain putty (in a can) will work with old school single stage primer.
Before I found my Nitro Stain putty I bought a tube of 3M putty and did not like it. 1=there is no way to mix it and the first squeeze was liquid, 2=it did not do a good job of filling in pin holes or sanding marks.
I know now days they make high build primer, spray on / sand off and keep re-peteing till all is good.
BTW 55 years in the rust belt and trained in full on body work I think I know a thing or two about rust.
Dave ----
edit: I see the pictures in my post are missingI will have to fix that someday it was an acid & Eastwood's brush on encapsulate
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From: Virginia
I would not think you would need to treat the area if there is no rust left.
Nitro stan and other puttys are really just extra thick primer. Instead of spraying it on you are spreading it on with a putty knife. But like you said, I would follow the directions, I think they want you to put the putty over sprayed on primer.
The original poster also needs to realize if he goes around the truck taking areas to bare metal and using a automotive type primer in those areas, that they are going to rust, the regular primer is not water proof. Unless he uses epoxy primer, which is not cheap. If he uses regular primer, he needs to put a final top coat of paint on those areas, just to seal them up.
Nitro stan and other puttys are really just extra thick primer. Instead of spraying it on you are spreading it on with a putty knife. But like you said, I would follow the directions, I think they want you to put the putty over sprayed on primer.
The original poster also needs to realize if he goes around the truck taking areas to bare metal and using a automotive type primer in those areas, that they are going to rust, the regular primer is not water proof. Unless he uses epoxy primer, which is not cheap. If he uses regular primer, he needs to put a final top coat of paint on those areas, just to seal them up.
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From: Angier, NC
Funny you say that about the Nitro Stain as back in the day we would mix it in with the primer making our own "high build primer" and spray it on then block wet sand the car or truck.
You are right on the primer that it needs to be top coated as water will go thru it and start to rust.
Also there is no need to go to bare metal if the paint is solid.
Only time to go bare metal in my book is if the paint / primer is flaking off, a lot of coats of paint & primer from other paint jobs, rust coming thru from below.
Dave ----
You are right on the primer that it needs to be top coated as water will go thru it and start to rust.
Also there is no need to go to bare metal if the paint is solid.
Only time to go bare metal in my book is if the paint / primer is flaking off, a lot of coats of paint & primer from other paint jobs, rust coming thru from below.
Dave ----
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2013
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From: NE Ohio
straight up muriatic acid will remove rust. It isn't too expensive but it will eat asphalt and probably concrete and anything else it touches.
You must wear a respirator or expect chemical burns on your airways.
But its CHEAP and works fantastic!
You must wear a respirator or expect chemical burns on your airways.
But its CHEAP and works fantastic!
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