When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I finished the regasketing of my motor and removed the smog pump and crossover tube in rear of heads. Got everything plugged up and back together. It started up and runs good.
However I have a very soft brake pedal now, I did nothing with the brake system. I had to obviously remove the large vacuum line that goes to the tree on top of the intake.
Is their another vacuum line I’m missing or is the line to intake in wrong port? ( see pic). Or should I just bleed lines.
Was the pedal stiff before you deleted the smog tubing?
If the pedal is really soft, the booster is working correctly. Perhaps you accidentally damaged a brake line in the process of deleting the smog tubing.
With the engine off, pump the pedal several times - you should feel it get stiffer. If you hold pressure on the pedal and it starts sinking to the floor (however slowly), there’s a leak - look underneath for the area it’s coming from.
Did you delete the smog tubing because it was causing a vacuum leak? Maybe the engine just couldn’t pull enough vacuum for the booster to work properly. With the engine running, are you able to pump the pedal and get it to build resistance?
There’s only a few things that will cause a low/soft pedal:
1) Leak or air in the system.
2) Calipers sticking/dragging and allowing too much piston travel.
3) Drum brakes out of adjustment (wheel cylinders have to extend much farther than they should).
4) Brake pedal linkage out of adjustment.
5) Faulty master cylinder - with the reservoir cap off, have an assistant “bump” the pedal (they don’t have to go to the floor, just a quick tap to engage the MC) - you should see a couple small air bubbles rise to the top - this indicates the piston seals are working and building pressure.
QUOTE Is their another vacuum line I’m missing or is the line to intake in wrong port? ( see pic). Or should I just bleed lines.
The major cause of soft brakes is air in the lines. Rather than throw parts at it I would do as you mentioned. Bleed the lines. Never hurts and you have got to fix them before you drive it anyway. I have no clue as to how it may have happened but you don't have many options. Sandy
Thank you for the advice I’ll get someone to help me see if I can’t bleed the lines out. I deleted the smog pump due to it started making a bunch of noise.
Well tried bleeding the lines and back could not not get a drop out of either side. I got the fronts to bleed and they were nasty. So I’m thinking maybe a MC issue? The lines all look good not rusted or pinched.
Well tried bleeding the lines and back could not not get a drop out of either side. I got the fronts to bleed and they were nasty. So I’m thinking maybe a MC issue? The lines all look good not rusted or pinched.
Was the fluid in the container nasty before you started bleeding? Did you do the front first?
Well tried bleeding the lines and back could not not get a drop out of either side. I got the fronts to bleed and they were nasty. So I’m thinking maybe a MC issue? The lines all look good not rusted or pinched.
Pull the bleeder screws completely out - they’re probably packed full of rust and crud. Either clean them (drill bits work best) or replace them. While they’re out, pump the pedal once to clear the bores in the wheel cylinders, then spray a little brake clean into the bore to flush it before installing the bleeders.
I did the rear passenger first then rear driver moved to front passenger then front driver. I’ll take bleeders completely out. I had them unscrewed almost completely but not all way out
