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I am prepping cab for paint. I was wondering if anything goes in these seams on the exterior. What keeps the water from entering the seam? I don't think the exterior had seam sealer in them. seam front of door, door Back of cab above back window front of door What about the top of the drip rail. What keeps water from getting behind the drip rails. I have read on this site the drip rails can be a problem.
Yes, there should be seam sealer installed in all of the places in question. There are several types, catalyzed and non-catalyzed. Check with your local auto body supply store and see what they recommend in your budget and desired work level. Some of the 2 part catalyzed types will need a special application gun. Many times the applicator is more expensive than the material, which still isn't cheap. If they don't have a gun to rent or borrow, some basic stuff in a tube, (Kent, 3M, etc) will work just fine. It's old school, but they worked for many years.
I used a product called SEM 1K seam sealer....was recommended by a body & paint dealer when doing my project. Stuff was a little $$ but worked awesome.
I use 3M 08308 heavy-bodied seam sealer in various locations on the body, it works exceptionally well in the drip rail channel. A 200 ml cartridge can be purchased for less than $30 on ebay. The applicator is a costly needed tool but right now there is one on ebay as well for about half of the retail price https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-08571-Ma...kAAOSwZEJdtb1A.
I use 3M 08308 heavy-bodied seam sealer in various locations on the body, it works exceptionally well in the drip rail channel. A 200 ml cartridge can be purchased for less than $30 on ebay. The applicator is a costly needed tool but right now there is one on ebay as well for about half of the retail price https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-08571-Ma...kAAOSwZEJdtb1A.
This is a catalyzed product, it sets in about 15 minutes and cures in 24 hours When cured it has the consistency of hard rubber, think hockey puck, and can be sanded easily. When I seal my drip rail channels I use a popsicle stick to smooth it out, when cured it has a smooth shiny finish and only needs a light scuffing with a gray scotchbrite pad before painting.
I use 3M 08308 heavy-bodied seam sealer in various locations on the body, it works exceptionally well in the drip rail channel. A 200 ml cartridge can be purchased for less than $30 on ebay. The applicator is a costly needed tool but right now there is one on ebay as well for about half of the retail price https://www.ebay.com/itm/3M-08571-Ma...kAAOSwZEJdtb1A.
Spot on this is EXACTLY what should be used.
I have a wet cloth in hand incase of any excess that needs to be removed, you have minutes from application before you will not get it off.
All seams should be sealed, otherwise you will run the chance of your finish coat paint cracking in future years in these locations
I had my first experience last night with the panelbond. It went pretty well, it was bit messy with the 1/4" tube on the hood though. It would be much easier doing an overlapping panel.
The panel bond was sticky, I used my gloved finger to smooth it down. Is there any advantage (besides cost) to using the heavy bodied seam sealer over the panel bond?
