When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Long time lurker, first time poster.
I have a 1997 f250 with a 7.3L Powerstroke, with winter coming I replaced my relay with a stancor one and new glow plugs. I got the entire passenger bank done but when I tried to remove the first one on the drivers side (rear most plug)
the positive terminal and the nut sheered off. I tried using a small 1/4" drive wrench to avoid this but the PO had the dreaded autolite GPs installed and the nut spins freely but doesn't translate any of the force into the threads. I realized after it sheared what had happened and I am guessing it is due to carbon buildup. I see lots of extractor sets available but reviews are hit and miss and it seems I would be better off to buy high quality extractors/taps etc that are the right size for the 7.3 rather than a cheap generic kit but I am unsure what sizes I need.
I am hoping someone can help point me in the right direction or give me another idea. Talked to a few diesel shops and got quotes in excess of $600 for the removal of just one and if the head needs pulled $2500+, this seems like "I don't want to do this job" pricing but I do all my work myself so I am not used to labor rates and I could be wrong. I am located in Montana, if anyone here is local to me and could help, please let me know and I will compensate you for your time and help.
Sorry for the rant, was tossing and turning all night trying to figure out a way to get it out without screwing something up.
If photos/better explanation etc is needed, please let me know, I am not sure how well I am explaining this, it makes sense to me but I have the benefit of already knowing what the issue is so I could easily be filling in information that isn't clear in my post.
Its easy to remove the head just time consuming, its best to remove the head and do it right IMO.
If that is the option I have, then that's okay but at that point, I will feel obligated to do both heads, gaskets and the oil rail plugs. I'm betting it would take me 3 weeks of evenings and weekends and with it being cold here now (Montana) and the garage I have only allowing me to pull the truck in partially due to length, it would be a long few weeks.
I appreciate the feedback immensely. Hoping to avoid doing so but if I must to do it right, then I will.
If you decide to remove the heads, just pull the engine. I am sure your oil pan probably leaks like most if ours anyway.
Hell, you already installed one bank of ZD11s, right? See how far you can get on the other bank. I would think these would start with seven of eight holes lit, mine does into mid 20s at least without being plugged into the wall and I have a really weak hole.
If you decide to remove the heads, just pull the engine. I am sure your oil pan probably leaks like most if ours anyway.
Hell, you already installed one bank of ZD11s, right? See how far you can get on the other bank. I would think these would start with seven of eight holes lit, mine does into mid 20s at least without being plugged into the wall and I have a really weak hole.
The positive terminal for that glow plug also sheared off. It fell down into the board for the push rod and I was able to suck it out with a straw attached to a Shop-Vac. I worry about that connector flapping around in there. It would probably be fine but it will bother me Everytime I start the truck and see the wait to start light. :/
Last winter we saw -25 Fahrenheit temperatures and I am not always able to plug in the truck so i need all the help I can get from the glowplugs. We often have weeks where the temperature doesn't ever get above 5 Fahrenheit even for a less extreme example.
You could always cut the wire off at the harness under the valve cover, I would not. I would just zip tie it out of the way.
Yes, agreed with that weather you will need all the help you can get to start that thing up. I would even consider a thinner, syn oil. I swear I have seen 10W30 rated Diesel oils around.