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Glow Plug Removal Issues

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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 04:48 PM
  #1  
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Glow Plug Removal Issues

Hey all,

Long time lurker, first time poster.
I have a 1997 f250 with a 7.3L Powerstroke, with winter coming I replaced my relay with a stancor one and new glow plugs. I got the entire passenger bank done but when I tried to remove the first one on the drivers side (rear most plug)
the positive terminal and the nut sheered off. I tried using a small 1/4" drive wrench to avoid this but the PO had the dreaded autolite GPs installed and the nut spins freely but doesn't translate any of the force into the threads. I realized after it sheared what had happened and I am guessing it is due to carbon buildup. I see lots of extractor sets available but reviews are hit and miss and it seems I would be better off to buy high quality extractors/taps etc that are the right size for the 7.3 rather than a cheap generic kit but I am unsure what sizes I need.
I am hoping someone can help point me in the right direction or give me another idea. Talked to a few diesel shops and got quotes in excess of $600 for the removal of just one and if the head needs pulled $2500+, this seems like "I don't want to do this job" pricing but I do all my work myself so I am not used to labor rates and I could be wrong. I am located in Montana, if anyone here is local to me and could help, please let me know and I will compensate you for your time and help.
Sorry for the rant, was tossing and turning all night trying to figure out a way to get it out without screwing something up.
If photos/better explanation etc is needed, please let me know, I am not sure how well I am explaining this, it makes sense to me but I have the benefit of already knowing what the issue is so I could easily be filling in information that isn't clear in my post.


Thanks in advance for the help!
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 05:00 PM
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Its easy to remove the head just time consuming, its best to remove the head and do it right IMO.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Its easy to remove the head just time consuming, its best to remove the head and do it right IMO.
If that is the option I have, then that's okay but at that point, I will feel obligated to do both heads, gaskets and the oil rail plugs. I'm betting it would take me 3 weeks of evenings and weekends and with it being cold here now (Montana) and the garage I have only allowing me to pull the truck in partially due to length, it would be a long few weeks.
I appreciate the feedback immensely. Hoping to avoid doing so but if I must to do it right, then I will.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 06:06 PM
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If you decide to remove the heads, just pull the engine. I am sure your oil pan probably leaks like most if ours anyway.

Hell, you already installed one bank of ZD11s, right? See how far you can get on the other bank. I would think these would start with seven of eight holes lit, mine does into mid 20s at least without being plugged into the wall and I have a really weak hole.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
If you decide to remove the heads, just pull the engine. I am sure your oil pan probably leaks like most if ours anyway.

Hell, you already installed one bank of ZD11s, right? See how far you can get on the other bank. I would think these would start with seven of eight holes lit, mine does into mid 20s at least without being plugged into the wall and I have a really weak hole.
The positive terminal for that glow plug also sheared off. It fell down into the board for the push rod and I was able to suck it out with a straw attached to a Shop-Vac. I worry about that connector flapping around in there. It would probably be fine but it will bother me Everytime I start the truck and see the wait to start light. :/
Last winter we saw -25 Fahrenheit temperatures and I am not always able to plug in the truck so i need all the help I can get from the glowplugs. We often have weeks where the temperature doesn't ever get above 5 Fahrenheit even for a less extreme example.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2019 | 12:11 PM
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Thumbs up

You could always cut the wire off at the harness under the valve cover, I would not. I would just zip tie it out of the way.

Yes, agreed with that weather you will need all the help you can get to start that thing up. I would even consider a thinner, syn oil. I swear I have seen 10W30 rated Diesel oils around.

Keep us updated with info and pictures.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 12:29 PM
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If its loose, cant you just crank it and blow it out? unless it broke off inside the head.....
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 01:00 PM
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Stuck GP isn't fun.

Since the nut spins and threads didn't break loose, you will have to drill it out

I have heard using a shop vac to suck from exhaust valve side while drilling and keeping both valves open with piston up.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 03:16 PM
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oh dang. To prevent this, change them yearly ?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2019 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mcali2
oh dang. To prevent this, change them yearly ?


He had Autolite plugs put in it by PO. I pulled some unknown age ZD11s out of the dually, no issues.
 
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