I’ve been interested in a steering stabilizer but seems all over the place with single fox, fox ATS, and dual fox. I have 38’s and surprisingly ride is decent. Haven’t had death wobble but do have bump-steer on road transitions and hard bumps. In general I have light but consistent feedback and steering movement while driving. I purchased my 17’ already lifted and I assume my current dampener is stock but After seeing the zone lift, stabilizer was an option. Only markings are number stamp. They don’t match Ford part or the Zone part. Trying to see if this is stick ford or one from Zone missing sticker..

 

I would look at either Carli, fox, and or king. A high mount steering stabilizer help quite a bit with 37's.

 

If it has bump steer it doesn't matter which that one is, probably best to consider replacing it.

I would do dual. My ATS handles my 295/65/20s (35.1” tall) fine. Could probably take a little more tire but I would go with more if you have 38s.

 

my Fox ATS works fine with 37's

 

Bump Steer is adjusted out by proper alignment, any dealer should be able to fix that in a few min.

 

Hey Don, elaborate more on that. Im not thrilled with the bump steer on my 19 250 gas with 20" Michelins and snow plow package. It got 6,000 miles right now but considerable bump steer right from new. It tracks straight and rides nice otherwise. But over nearly invisible bumps I get pulled through the wheel. Ive read the caster has a lot to do with this. But then they said "less" castor to improve this? Seems like the opposite to me.
Also it was getting worse as I got to 5,000 miles when I rotted tires. It is definitely better after rotation. Im running 60 psi front and 55 rear.
My 2017 450 has zero bump steer. The wheel gets no feed back over even hard bumps.
Unfortunately I dont trust the dealer to wash my windshield.

 

I share your concerns. My 2019 250 has always had bump steer but it seems like it last longer as it gathers more miles. I'm at 10k right now and the occasional bump will cause a vibration in the steering wheel that will last for a couple seconds after hitting a bump.

 

Lets make sure we are talking about bump steer vs Death Wobble.

Bump steer is when you hit some kind of a tar strip, pothole, spacer, railroad tracks etc and the steering wheel turns to the left or right on it own. The truck does not go crazy and shudder, shake and vibrate your teeth out.

The cause: Steering not centered and or tie rod need to be adjusted. BS comes from unequal angles in your suspension, uncentered Steering. Just about all cars have some BS, most of the time it is barely noticable. If your are OEM and your steering is centered correct toe and caster and you still have it then it gets a bit more complex, but your dealer should be able to dial it out if your are OEM.

I am running late, I got to be in Dallas this afternoon and its a 6 hr trip and I should have left min ago...here is a good youtube:
I will check in on Monday.

Bump steer can usually be dialed out.

 

Omg there is a bunch of BS (pun intended) in this thread. the Internet is full of advice and most of it is sadly inaccurate. 17oaks has no idea what he is talking about.

The position of the steering wheel is adjusted at the tie rod, has nothing to do with bump steer.

Bump steer is effected by the angle and length of the tie rod in relation to the track bar. The only other variable is the steering Stab shock.

First realize a solid front axle will always have a degree of bump steer. It’s inherent to the design.

OP your steering Stab is the source of your choice exaggerated bump steer. It cannot be at an angle like it is. At an angle it is inducing a degree of BS as it’s compressing WITH suspension travel and putting input back into your steering. Stock the Stab sits level. Your need to address your setup so it sits level to the ground so it’s only function is to dampen left/right movement and not be inputting it’s own feedback as suspension articulates

 

Really happy with my King OEM replacement on 37s

 

seems you know what your talking about. would you agree the SS would be in a better location had it been attached at the steering knuckle to the axle housing, rather than drag link to frame ?

 

Not to hijack, but my aftermarket steering stabilizer blew a seal. I have to send it in. Can I run without it for a few weeks? Any limitations, like should I not tow without it?

 

If you are in houston you can use my factory one.

But id imagine its a similar situation as without a sway bar. Drive slow on the road and aware.

 

Back in town after my trip N on business, it was a good trip.

So lets talk about this bump steer thing. If you stop off at my shop the first things I am going to do is make sure the basics that should ALWAYS be corret are checked. A lot of problems can be solved at that point. The old, is it plugged in, turned on fixes a lot of TV's radios, computers etc.

Tires checked for uneven wear, correct tire pressure

Check Caster

Check Toe

Tie rod is centered

Steering wheel centered

NOTE: Any good shop will go thru this and they should NOT charge, I did not, its part of the diagnostics we have to go thru to eliminate the basics and ascertain where the problem might be. Bump Steer (BS) is an issue with angularity. The steering components like a parallel world rather than a lot of angles looking like some kind of Rube Goldberg setup. Probably the BS will have its origins in the Drag Link and the Trackbar. They lack the parallelism needed to keep BS at bay. Now if you have added lifts, big tires and made those changes it may take some doing to fix. A lot depends upon how high the lift. I remember the days of 10 in Lifts, that was a real can of worms to keep BS and DW at bay.

Bear in mind the STEERING is NOT adjusted at the Tie Rod (some cars it is, but not the Superduty). You want to adjust (CENTER) the steering first, then you adjust the tie rod-Toe.

Looking at your pic it appears the Trackbar and Draglink are parallel within reason. That said do you have a pic of the Pittman arm where it is attached to the Draglink? I cannot see the Pittman arm in your pic?

How much lift do you have?

Here is one the ones I built, 3 in lift/37 tires no BS or DW.

The top bar is the drag link,then the Trackbar, then the SS, then the Tie Rod. Note everything is parallel to each other and the axle, also note the SS is attached to the axle-Tie Rod

Red arrow points to the track bar, note the parallel suspension to each other and the axle.

 

thank you for the detailed response. I plan to find a quality alignment shop next week and see what they say,.

it’s a 6” lift. I attached more pictures with drop pitman ask.