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It's sure been a while, but I've accumulated quite the pile of truck parts. The pile recently hit critical mass (I ran out of storage space), so I decided to get to work on it.
I snuck the driving portion of the pile into a bay at work, and tore into it.
Pre-disassembly
No more TTB
I still have to do some final assembly on my D60 before it goes in. Shafts aren't in yet, so I still have that and the hubs to do as time allows. Because u-bolt plates are apparently cast from gold, I'll be installing the axle with a U-bolt flip kit as well. Above that, I got PMF's 2.5" shackle reversal kit, some used V code springs, and Bilsteins to go with it. I'm hoping to get the truck sitting on the axle this week, but we'll see. Once I gather my thoughts, I'll compile photos and parts from my axle rebuild/install. I'm also hoping to grab a 10.5" rear end to toss into the mix Wednesday after work. I finally found one for $350 that's reasonably close by. Aside from that, I've got a steering box from Redhead, a steering shaft from Borgeson, hydroboost, and NOS 7.3 intercooler to put in while the truck is in the shop.
I'd love to hear questions, comments, suggestions, and/or heckling as this slowly moves along. Maybe my blunders can help somebody out somewhere as I learn from my mistakes.
That reminds me: don't get carried away by hatred; drain gear oil BEFORE dropping the TTB and pulling shafts or you'll have a mess on the ground.
Have my PMF RSK mostly finished. Some thoughts to help avoid oopsies:
Have the D60 on something where you can easily move it side to side and fore and aft a bit. You'll need the adjustability to get everything to line up.
You'll also need a way to rotate the axle (pinion angle) to get the springs to line up... but a small jack under the pinion boss seal boss should do the trick.
Watch the grease zircs on the bottom ball joints... it's very easy to wipe them off when trying to "persuade" everything to line up.
I did my assembly order as: 1) U-bolts onto axles 2) front spring bolts to PMF crossmember, 3) shackles into frame mounts, 4) shackles onto springs 5) sway bar end links 6) track (panhard) bar.
Even with the D60 "perfectly" lined up, the last spring eye didn't quite slide into place freely. It seems line the the springs and mounts have a bit of toe and camber built into them. You'll need a bit of prying and torquing to get the last spring eye into place. Have a good prybar handy... long enough but not so long as to hit the ground... and a long adjustable or pipe wrench. A friend to push the bolt through while you're torquing the spring should make the last bolt on each side less frustrating.
I did my sway bar end links by bolting each to the chassis mounts, but this requires getting each link through the hole in the end of the sway bar at the same time. Possible solo, better with a helper. Very loosely putting both links on the sway, getting each into the frame mounts, then tightening everything up may be easier solo.
Question on your wheel bolt patterns... OBS differs from Super Duty's. Is your D60 from an OBS or earlier, or Super Duty? 10.5 should be Super Duty?
paddler, many thanks for the advice. I imagine it'll be a pain, especially since my springs are used and I don't know what kind of memory is stored up relative to my hangers. I don't actually have a sway bar yet, but plan to get one. It's definitely a pet peeve to get the end links and bushings all bolted together. I'll be able to trade beer for help though if need be.
I'm not looking at the thing, but do you think it would be an issue to install the track bar before the sway bar? I'm not sure what their relation is when everything's bolted up, but have heard of people having interference issues at the track bar to axle bolt.
I already screwed myself by forgetting to grab toe in measurements before teardown (not that d50 and d60 measurements are the same ?), so I'll need to track down some rough ones so I don't have to trailer it to an alignment shop.
They found that redrilling 10.5 hubs and using a van rotor was a far better option for rear discs than using the cadillac setup kit, with larger brakes, and a stout e-brake as well. I was intrigued and figured I'd give it a try. Though for mine, I plan to just get the 8x6.5" pattern drilled between the existing holes. I don't foresee any issues with that, but if anyone who's done the swap has tried it, please speak up with your experience. Oh, additionally, a few thousandths need to be machined from the diameter of the hub to fit the OBS alcoas. I haven't actually measured, but that was stated in the thread above too.
I'm leaving my track bar as the last think to hook up. It's bolted to the axle. The frame end is in between the jaws of the frame bracket, but the bolt holes don't quite line up. Everything is on jackstands and isn't easy to nudge sideways a bit. I'm going to get on wheels, and then nudge the frame sideways relative to the axle so the trackbar bolt holes line up. If you have your axle on something movable, you shouldn't have that problem.
Is your U-bolt flip putting the springs under the axle? If so, your trackbar and swaybar end links should be close to stock geometry. I'm going with the 2.5" lift from axles on top, and using extended track bar bracket (PMF) and extended sway bar end links. If you still have springs on top, you'll likely have interference at sway bar to axle (the odd curves in the sway bar) with stock length links. To me, it looked like the only sway bar issue would be increased angle of the sway bar, which would move the axle a bit to the driver's side relative to the frame. I didn't see other interference issues.
You've thought through the hub bolt pattern issues. Wheel alignment is beyond me.
I'm trying to finish up RSK, hydraboost, hard and soft lines, master cylinder, wheel cylinder, calipers. Close to getting off the jackstands, back on wheels, and some very cautious testing.
A u-bolt flip just brings the stud ends up high. 4 wheelers do it for clearance, but I'm just doing it out of convenience. Unfortunately I'll have to notch or drill out the webbing next to the diff to run the bolt that way, but so be it.
The photo below is from snowracer at pirate, showing a similar setup.
Also, I may be wrong, but I recall reading that using the end links from a factory REAR sway bar alleviates the issue arising from the lift geometry.
And let me know how it all works out! You're doing a lot of the same upgrades (just a lot farther along it sounds like), and I'd love to hear about the results. For a fraction of what a new pickup costs, somebody could really take one of the old ones a long way towards the same performance and ride quality.
I would have to go measure end links on both ends to see if the lengths are right. But stock length rears will cost a lot less than extended length fronts.
If you have a similar top plate for the bolt flip to what's in the picture, you might consider getting new square bend bolts from PMF and using them with those plates. You'll probably need to radius the top inside of the holes in the plates a bit (the "square" actually is tight radius), but probably a lot less grinding than flipping the bolts. Take a look at what's on the underside of your D60 to see if this makes sense.
And it rides great! I have about 1,000 miles on the setup, with a new redhead steering box and borgeson shaft also done at the time of axle install. So here's another vote for the RSK/SD springs being well worth it. The difference in ride on road isn't terribly huge (with more body roll now), but off pavement the ride is drastically improved. I do believe I'll add a front sway bar and see how I like it.
I have yet to align it though. Although it tracks better than expected, the wheel return isn't quite there, making me think my caster is out of whack somewhat. I'll post back with before and after alignment specs when I get that done.
I also picked up a new rear end
Which I'll rebuild, regear to 4.10, and convert to the OBS lug pattern. Once that's done I'll finally get the B codes in the rear and swap to hydroboost.
Here are some pictures I gathered during my Dana 60 rebuild:
Bare housing prepped for POR15
And coated with POR15
Stock axle tube opening
I decided to add a couple of cheap layers of protection. Not necessary but why not while the shafts are out?
End seals installed
Installing new carrier bearings (reused the same gears and carrier)
And the final pattern. I thought it was totally acceptable. The camera angle makes it hard to tell, but the contact was well centered between the root and crown. I kept backlash the same as before the teardown, at 0.008".
I got my springs used from a dismantler, so I can't say with 100% confidence, but I requested "V" code fronts and "B" code rears. The tech knew what I was talking about so I assume that's what they are. Only fronts are installed so far.
By rear leaf mount, I assume you mean the shackle at the rear of the front spring. I'll have to snap one after work.
Axle's out of a '97, and yeah, the tie rod flop is the worst part. Pretty much undid the benefits of all the new steering parts. I just ordered some poly tie rod boots hoping that might help. A set of 2 boots was cheaper than a single delrin plastic "cure" bushing I've seen online. I'll post back when I get those installed. If they don't help I'll just make some bushings. It's definitely annoying enough to need messing with though.
Specific to the 90s ford D60. Looks like they use the same tie rod ends as the Jeep setup you linked?
Seems like crossover/high-steer would be the best way to go, geometry wise (not claiming to be an expert though). Never seen or thought of doing that to a BJ axle before.
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