In 1950 it would have been a positive ground, 6 volt system.

I get a little confused on trying to cogitate all the different combinations people might have come up with over the years. I do know that the starter doesn't care - the way they are wound, it will work fine either positive or negative ground. It also doesn't particularly care whether 12 volts is applied to a 6 volt starter. Might be a little hard on the bendix, but many people retain the 6 volt starter when converting to 12. The heater blower doesn't care about polarity, but I think it would not like 12 volts so much.

You'll want to study up about polarization, residual magnetism is retained inside the generator at the time of manufacture. Normally a generator doesn't require polarization unless the field coils have been replaced, or maybe if it has been dropped, or sat unused for a very long time, lightning strikes nearby etc.

Much superstition and folklore has arisen about this seemingly mysterious process. Sometimes you'll hear people say polarization is required anytime the battery, or the regulator, is disconnected, or replaced. That is not the case. What is important is that the correct procedure is followed for the type of generator circuit being used. While polarization is performed at the generator regulator, it is not the regulator that is being polarized. All polarization does is make sure the generator will start charging in the right direction when it starts spinning. "Motoring" a generator accomplishes the same thing, by the way. To accomplish polarization in a FORD type "B" circuit, disconnect the FLD terminal from the voltage regulator (engine OFF) and momentarily touch it to the BATT terminal. May see a spark, that's fine. Reconnect the FLD terminal. Using jumper wires or screwdrivers or any other method of polarization may likely damage the regulator.

It is important in a 6 volt system that the battery and start cables are sized properly. "00" or double ought AWG is preferred. Sometimes you'll see someone replaced old corroded cables with small gauge replacements barely adequate even for 12 volt systems. Grounds and connections are always important but defects will really show up with 6 volts.

 

Obviously I was speaking in the case when one was motoring the Genny, and assumed you had properly seated brushes


Personally I use a growler to test the Armatures before they ever get installed and any Commutator work is done on the lathe including undercutting if needed,
I have 17 years experience daily working on Generators. Certified Lincoln and miller warranty Plus many others.

 

That was the info that I was looking for. It sure is great to have this site with people that help without trying to sell you anything.

 

Now wait a minute, earlier you said back in the day everybody would just "motor the generator and call it good." NOW, ya tell us, you have a growler!! Can't have it both ways. I bet hardly anybody knows what a growler even IS anymore. I don't mind generators for simple equipment that don't have lots of current demands, except they are heavy, and Ford moved them down low on the Y block where they are exposed to road spray. I bought one of those rubber covers that seems to help. Lower hood lines and OHV engines meant they had to move the generator from up top, front and center I suppose. Stuff sure must have been a whole lot easier to work on in those days.

 

what do ya mean can't have it both ways... as I first said an easy test is to Motor it... ... when you are rebuilding it and have it all in bits and pieces then it's pretty hard to Motor it, ain't it.... and yes I have several Growlers and a few Meggers too, along with several Armature lathes, I no longer have a Bake Out Oven, as I said I was in the Welding Equipment repair business for 17 years before I retired back in 2K5

 

All I did was Answer the OP's original question....." My question, how can I check the generator without the motor being wired up?"

back in the old days we just hooked it up to 12 volts and if it runs like a Motor then ya call it Good

I'm sure you all know about Flashing the Fields

EDIT: If it will Motor then it will Generate......

How much more was needed ?

 

My 55 has a sheet metal shield under the generator that looks stock, my 54 does not.

 

What's the oven used for, armatures or field coils get baked?

 

IF you do any rewinding they should be dipped and baked... all the Motors and generators I rebuilt got the full process ... it's called we don't like come backs



EDIT: here BTW LMGTFY https://dreisilker.com/blog/4-types-...ation-methods/

 

Interesting. Thanks for the link. How long should a set of generator brushes be expected to last? About. 10k miles, 40k miles?

 

I really thought you already knew about Bake and Dip and was just pulling my LEG LMAO

I don't know what Ford says about when brushes should be changed ... but in good Gennys I've seen em last thousands of hours... lot of my customers used to come in at 1000 hrs and generally I just inspected and seldom had to replace brushes on the Main Genny... exciter generators would be at about 1/2 life and they are similar in size to an Automotive generator. I used to get starters and Charging system generators come into the shop and after they were repaired I don't recall ever seeing that same one come back in.... when you work on things daily you generally can recognize your own work and you know which customers that need to be charged Double or Triple IF ya catch my meaning.

 

Much has to do with the quality and type of brushes (soft/hard), the condition of the comm (sanded/turned/undercut), and spring tension being correct. Brush rigging is a moot point here, but correct orientation plays a big part in larger machines. I've worked on 1,500 HP DC motors, 8,000 HP AC phase controlled motors, and 4,160 V 3Ø 4Mw AC alternators, so I have a working knowledge of the science behind it.

 

They don't, afaik. Just wondered. Seems to me I serviced a gennie with maybe 20k and they still had a fair amount of meat left on them. The way people talk about generators today it's a wonder anybody made it across town. They do suck in some ways though.

 

yes a Modern day Alternator is way more efficient..... BUT I guess IF you going for the Original OEM show car look, then you need to keep the genny.

Personally I'm more into functional and could care less about show cars... but hey that's just me

it was a fine invention by Faraday in it's day.............

 

It's an interesting piece of obsolete technology, not really an appearance thing for me. That's what it had when I bought it, if it had been modded with an alternator doubt I'd have swapped it back, but at the same time don't see any particular reason to upgrade either. They worked back then I can make them work for me now. I will say on Flatheads though, they look a little strange with an alternator esp. a dressed up engine. I wouldn't buy one of those alternator-in-gennie cases either.