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Fuel line replacement now stalling

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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 06:05 PM
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Fuel line replacement now stalling

Well I’m back again. One of my high pressure fuel lines had a hole in it and was leaking bad. It was the line from the pressure regulator on the side of the fuel bowl to the drivers side front of the head. I changed the line today and on the drive home it stalled out.Didn’t hiccup or anything, just shut off and now I can’t get it to start at all, just cranks but no start. It was running totally fine before the hole in my old fuel line so I am very confused. I’m thinking maybe there’s air in the system? Is there a way for me to bleed the fuel system? Anyway, any help would be great.

Thank You,
Christian
 
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 08:37 PM
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Those rubber ones are return lines. BTDT replacing at random.

You should not have air at that point, regardless of stock fuel or electronic fuel. Sounds like other issues are amiss.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Those rubber ones are return lines. BTDT replacing at random.

You should not have air at that point, regardless of stock fuel or electronic fuel. Sounds like other issues are amiss.
But that’s why I’m so lost, it was running completely fine before this hole/leak happened. i will attach a video of the leak, it was shooting out bad.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 09:04 PM
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I also ran the truck very low on fuel on the way home today, and that’s when it shut off, but it literally just shut down at a red light like I turned the truck off, I put some fuel in it but still no start. That’s why I was asking if there’s a way to bleed the system
 
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 09:42 PM
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If you are rocking mechanical fuel system, you can fill the fuel filter bowl with some fuel to help prime it faster. It will take some decent cranking if ran stone dry. Fill up the tank with at least 5-10 gallons of No2, crank on and off for 10-15 second intervals. Give the starter some time to cool down. I would probably give it one minute at least, this also helps the batteries come back some...jump it with another vehicle if possible. Plugging it in will help crank faster too, less dependent upon glow plugs and warmer oil. Hell, if plugged in for a few hours, just disconnect the glow plugs.

The dually did same thing, blew out the driver soft line. Jizzed fuel all over the rental behind me. I bought a new set from Riffraff and keep a spare set in the truck now, just in case.

Do not fret, guys on this board will help you out!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2019 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
If you are rocking mechanical fuel system, you can fill the fuel filter bowl with some fuel to help prime it faster. It will take some decent cranking if ran stone dry. Fill up the tank with at least 5-10 gallons of No2, crank on and off for 10-15 second intervals. Give the starter some time to cool down. I would probably give it one minute at least, this also helps the batteries come back some...jump it with another vehicle if possible. Plugging it in will help crank faster too, less dependent upon glow plugs and warmer oil. Hell, if plugged in for a few hours, just disconnect the glow plugs.

The dually did same thing, blew out the driver soft line. Jizzed fuel all over the rental behind me. I bought a new set from Riffraff and keep a spare set in the truck now, just in case.

Do not fret, guys on this board will help you out!
I checked the fuel bowl when it stalled and it had plenty of fuel...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 11:44 AM
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So it started right up when I cranked it this morning and ran totally fine, I turned it off to run in a store and when I came back out same thing again, won’t start just continuous cranking but no fire. This is my only vehicle so any help would be great. It is just so weird to me that it runs great while it’s on then all the sudden like a light switch goes off and it won’t fire...
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 12:19 PM
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Is your IPR loose? Tried disconnecting the ICP? Sensors can act up depending upon temperature. What about your crank sensor?

Motorcraft only for the sensors.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man X
Is your IPR loose? Tried disconnecting the ICP? Sensors can act up depending upon temperature. What about your crank sensor?

Motorcraft only for the sensors.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Byb...1qRU1VVGc/view

i tried to unplug the ICP, didn’t work, IPR is tight. I think I’m going to try to replace the Crank sensor even though I just replaced it last year
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 02:29 PM
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Changes the CPS, still nothing
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 05:07 PM
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Any cel? How's the wiring to the ipr?
 
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Old Oct 17, 2019 | 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 427 fordman
Any cel? How's the wiring to the ipr?

i cannot see the IPR well because of the fuel bowl being in the way, I would have to remove the fuel bowl first. I took the IPR out last year and cleaned it then put it all back. No the check engine light is not on.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 10:14 AM
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No no, the wiring to the IPR. If the circuit goes open, the truck will not run.

I recall five wires on that harness in total. I removed all that crap, let me look for my post upon it.

EDIT - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18039915
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 10:30 AM
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So it started again this morning, let it idle for about 35-40 minutes and then I just heard it shut off when I was inside. Came back out to start it and it started but it was a rough start. I have it running again right now but every time I turn it off it cranks for like 5 seconds and slowly starts to run. This thing is usually turn key and boom right up. It seems to stalk out when it warmed up and runs fine when it’s cold
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 10:39 AM
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Just died again and now won’t fire just cranking again, wiring to the IPR seems fine to me. I’m so lost with this thing it runs amazing and then a return line has a hole in it then all the sudden it s.... the bed. Just makes no sense
 
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