Just will not start.....
Modding a GP or the HF kit adapter is the way to go. The small fitting in the HF kit worked but it was a PITA. I probably got inaccurate readings which is actually sort of a relief. These were taken on 5/19/2018 with the engine cold and the other GPs still installed:
1) 350 psi 2) 360 psi
3) 340 psi 4) 370 psi
5) 340 psi 6) 380 psi
7) 350 psi 8) 340 psi
It's probably time for me to dust off the HF compression tester, mod the adapter and do the compression test right.
Also not that it matters but just some random info about the fuel shutoff solenoid, my International manual states that a minimum of 9 volts is needed to open it. There’s a little leeway, it’s not like if you have 11.9 volts your thumbing it home, but there really isn’t a reason to not have 12 there I suppose.

when using one for compression my Hose has a Check valve in it, and so does my Gauge so I don't need the tire valve in the adapter, anyway keep that in mind.
and Yes I realize that the voltage can drop below 9 volts and still keep the solenoid energized... Pull in is where the max current is drawn and it don't take much to hold it.
this is why I figure it should run long time off a set of good batteries. My guess is 6 volts would hold it once it has been initially Energized

it was in the other post I was a little more bothered by the Low voltage as that Poster said the voltage on the fuel shutoff was dropping to Zero then slowly coming back to 8 or 9 Volts. <<== That just ain't right
Cut down the Adapter indicated in the instructions and proceeded to test each cylinder. All but one read 100 the other 230.
Remembered what Lonewolf said and put some light oil in the last one and it jumped up to 500
The truck has not been run since Aug 3, time for some mystery oil tomorrow.
Thanks everyone for your help.
Modding a GP or the HF kit adapter is the way to go. The small fitting in the HF kit worked but it was a PITA. I probably got inaccurate readings which is actually sort of a relief. These were taken on 5/19/2018 with the engine cold and the other GPs still installed:
1) 350 psi 2) 360 psi
3) 340 psi 4) 370 psi
5) 340 psi 6) 380 psi
7) 350 psi 8) 340 psi
It's probably time for me to dust off the HF compression tester, mod the adapter and do the compression test right.

went ahead and installed new GP,
Started with dead truck, added new starter and new glow plugs, fired right up, smoked for a few seconds , idled at about 1000 after a few minutes dropped to about 500 and steady.
Thank you everyone for your input and help.
went ahead and installed new GP,
Started with dead truck, added new starter and new glow plugs, fired right up, smoked for a few seconds , idled at about 1000 after a few minutes dropped to about 500 and steady.
Thank you everyone for your input and help.

As far as the compression.... run it for a bit and then re test it... you may have some valves that are not seating very well... but blow out the carbon first and then see...
where you are at .. and if it's running fine don't worry too much about it unless you are OCD like me
If you do another compression test and get similar numbers it might be worth it to re-torque the head gaskets instead of doing an R/R.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Also I'd recommend a bottle of marvel mystery oil in the oil. It'll help any stuck rings free up and clean out the lifters. For best results test compression with the motor fully up to operating temp. Mine saw on average 80psi more per cylinder warm.
What it is cold doesn't really matter as long as it'll start and get warm.











