Just will not start.....
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 120
Likes: 1
From: Carmel Valley
Just will not start.....
1985 F250 6.9 4sp 4x4, last month coming home from Winnemucca NV. Voltage reg went out and the truck died on the road, and had it towed to Reno. Replaced voltage reg, charged Batteries, bleed the lines, but would not start, got mad gave it a shot of eather, no glow plug, fired right up and I drove it home to Monterey. Next morning no start. Just put in a new starter 9050, and was bleeding the lines, when I use the remote starter I see smoke floating up out of the intake manifold (Have the air cleaner off to get to the injectors to crack them.). When turn the motor over I see fuel at the injectors, but not jetting out they just get wet. Still no start, not even a pop.
Next step is compression test.
Injector pump bad?
Anything else I should look into?
If anyone knows who designed the hidden bolt on the starter, let me know I want to have a word with them.
Thanks
Craig
Next step is compression test.
Injector pump bad?
Anything else I should look into?
If anyone knows who designed the hidden bolt on the starter, let me know I want to have a word with them.
Thanks
Craig
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
Voltage reg went out and the truck died on the road, <<<=== so what Happened did you loose voltage to the Fuel Shut Off solenoid ??
have you tested the GP's ?
have you tested that you have power to the Fuel Shut Off when thr ignition switch is in the run Position ?
Use a longer bolt with a Jam Nut to solve the hidden bolt thingi
have you tested the GP's ?
have you tested that you have power to the Fuel Shut Off when thr ignition switch is in the run Position ?
Use a longer bolt with a Jam Nut to solve the hidden bolt thingi
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 120
Likes: 1
From: Carmel Valley
Have Electric lift pump, ran out of fuel when battery ran down.
The fuel pump relay is powered from the fuel shut off wire so I know it is getting power and I can hear the click when powered up.
Was going to test Glow plugs when I do the compression check.
The fuel pump relay is powered from the fuel shut off wire so I know it is getting power and I can hear the click when powered up.
Was going to test Glow plugs when I do the compression check.
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
well, I guess since you are going to do a Comp Test .. you can test em then.
I generally just check em with a test light, no need to remove them.
and now I see another reason to not use an electric pump.. Thanx for that info.
I generally just check em with a test light, no need to remove them.
and now I see another reason to not use an electric pump.. Thanx for that info.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,979
Likes: 514
From: Edmond, OK
The Horrible Freight compression tester works ok. Unless you're willing to spend big bucks for an OTC or SnapOn compression tester. I bought one to do a compression test on my 6.9l.
Remove all of the GPs before you start the compression test. It's supposed to be done withe the engine warm but...
https://www.harborfreight.com/diesel...-pc-62594.html
Remove all of the GPs before you start the compression test. It's supposed to be done withe the engine warm but...
https://www.harborfreight.com/diesel...-pc-62594.html
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,036
Likes: 5
Noticed your trucks a four speed. If you can get a chain and drag start it, quickest way if it just lost prime, if it never starts then you know it's a fuel issue.
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Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
well, my guess is since he had the issue in Reno and got it running with Either and drove it all the way to Monterrey Cali ... it must be pretty well primed.. and he never had the issue before the failed Regulator and now won't start in the morning... seems like GP is first to test.
you would think with a good set of batteries you would be able to run the truck all day ... IF not using High current Draw devices.... how much current can the FP and Fuel Shut Off Draw ?
Just saying.
I would be wondering why the Regulator Failed.
more to this than meets the eye.
you would think with a good set of batteries you would be able to run the truck all day ... IF not using High current Draw devices.... how much current can the FP and Fuel Shut Off Draw ?
Just saying.
I would be wondering why the Regulator Failed.
more to this than meets the eye.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 115
Likes: 3
It sounds like a fuel related issue. I doubt it is compression as there would generally be signs that was going downhill before it just refused to start.
Have you tried replacing the fuel filter? It seems like that would be an easy start.
I would also check the voltage you are getting at the starter motor. It should be around 12.6V. If it is less, it may not want to start cold. If it is less, it could be a corroded ground or corroded battery cables. It is also possible the batteries are not delivering the CCAs they should. Another easy fix would be to try jumping the batteries from another running vehicle to see if that makes a difference in cranking. Most of the big auto parts stores will also load test your batteries for free.
It could also be a combination of issues like a slightly run down battery, one or two bad glow plugs, lower compression in one cylinder and slightly off injection timing.
h.ubk
Have you tried replacing the fuel filter? It seems like that would be an easy start.
I would also check the voltage you are getting at the starter motor. It should be around 12.6V. If it is less, it may not want to start cold. If it is less, it could be a corroded ground or corroded battery cables. It is also possible the batteries are not delivering the CCAs they should. Another easy fix would be to try jumping the batteries from another running vehicle to see if that makes a difference in cranking. Most of the big auto parts stores will also load test your batteries for free.
It could also be a combination of issues like a slightly run down battery, one or two bad glow plugs, lower compression in one cylinder and slightly off injection timing.
h.ubk
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 120
Likes: 1
From: Carmel Valley
going to pick up the compression tester tomorrow.
To answer some of the questions
new Facet Dura-Lift Fuel pump installed before NV trip
Installed new fuel filters at that time.
Have a Racor 500FG Filter and Water trap before the Fuel Pump.
Just installed a new Power Master 9050 starter
GP less than 6 months old, new Motorcraft.
When doing the compression check should I run the block heater for a short time to get the engine warm?
To answer some of the questions
new Facet Dura-Lift Fuel pump installed before NV trip
Installed new fuel filters at that time.
Have a Racor 500FG Filter and Water trap before the Fuel Pump.
Just installed a new Power Master 9050 starter
GP less than 6 months old, new Motorcraft.
When doing the compression check should I run the block heater for a short time to get the engine warm?
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
When doing the compression check should I run the block heater for a short time to get the engine warm?
I guess you are in the mid 60's there, so I doubt your block heater will bring it up to much more than 100F so I doubt it will make much difference.
IF the readings are real Low you can do a Wet Compression test and see where that puts you.
is always best if the engine is up to operating temps but since you can't get there.........
Just Give your Starter PLENTY of cool down time.
I guess you are in the mid 60's there, so I doubt your block heater will bring it up to much more than 100F so I doubt it will make much difference.
IF the readings are real Low you can do a Wet Compression test and see where that puts you.
is always best if the engine is up to operating temps but since you can't get there.........
Just Give your Starter PLENTY of cool down time.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,979
Likes: 514
From: Edmond, OK
I guess you are in the mid 60's there, so I doubt your block heater will bring it up to much more than 100F so I doubt it will make much difference.
IF the readings are real Low you can do a Wet Compression test and see where that puts you.
is always best if the engine is up to operating temps but since you can't get there.........
Just Give your Starter PLENTY of cool down time.
IF the readings are real Low you can do a Wet Compression test and see where that puts you.
is always best if the engine is up to operating temps but since you can't get there.........
Just Give your Starter PLENTY of cool down time.
If you buy thee HF compression tester this is the fitting you use in the GP hole:
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 3,979
Likes: 514
From: Edmond, OK
As I recall, I couldn't get the indicated fitting to work with the GP threads. The Lang compression tester I bought on Amazon died after testing 3 cylinders and had a fitting similar to the 4th from the right. The Lang fitting mated with the GP threads just fine, the HF fitting that was most similar to the Lang fitting (and was actually called out by the HF kit to work with International diesels) didn't work at all. 
Scope Wizard
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,530
Likes: 25
As I recall, I couldn't get the indicated fitting to work with the GP threads. The Lang compression tester I bought on Amazon died after testing 3 cylinders and had a fitting similar to the 4th from the right. The Lang fitting mated with the GP threads just fine, the HF fitting that was most similar to the Lang fitting (and was actually called out by the HF kit to work with International diesels) didn't work at all.
I made my own fitting by just drilling out an old Glow Plug and silver soldered a QD fitting on the GP
EDIT: OK I see the problem... here is the Fix ===>>> https://www.oilburners.net/threads/d...success.69771/