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Not sure if it has anything to do with the weather getting colder here. I started noticing the other day that when i start my truck cold in the morning it will slightly knock for 2 seconds, maybe 2 or 3 knocks and then it smooths right out. Recently changed the oil with Lucus Hot Rod oil 10w40. I dont like multivicosity oils. The engine has 120,000 original miles. Am I looking at a total rebuild soon? Dont have the money right now. How long should I wait?
An engine knock when cold isn't necessarily unusual, and not always cause for concern. Annoyance, maybe. It could be "piston slap" for example.
Engine knock when warmed up, a knock that doesn't go away at normal operating temperature, that is a different issue, NOW you got a problem.
Multi-viscosity oils are absolutely fine, it is important especially when cold, that the oil flows as quickly as possible to vital engine parts. Maybe you know more than the engineers who designed it, no offense but I really doubt it.
An engine knock when cold isn't necessarily unusual, and not always cause for concern. Annoyance, maybe. It could be "piston slap" for example.
Engine knock when warmed up, a knock that doesn't go away at normal operating temperature, that is a different issue, NOW you got a problem.
Multi-viscosity oils are absolutely fine, it is important especially when cold, that the oil flows as quickly as possible to vital engine parts. Maybe you know more than the engineers who designed it, no offense but I really doubt it.
You know i was agreeing with what u wrote until the last sentence. How do u know im not an engineer? Anyway that wasnt my point. I just dont like them because they tend to break down quicker and the viscosity rating isnt real anyway. I have never seen an oil that was thicker when it was warm.
Multi-viscosity oils have been in wide use for maybe 60 years? I think there's a place for straight weight oils but a good quality 10w-30 with the right additive package is good stuff and will provide adequate lubrication in a wide variety of temperatures. The big thing is cold temperatures, oil flow when it turns to sludge in the bottom of the pan. Multi-viscosity oils means no longer having to change oils when the seasons change, it can be run year round. A lot of folks run 15w-40 in everything they own, Tractors, combines, lawnmowers, weed wackers, generators, doesn't matter.
One thing to watch for is oil filters. Motorcraft makes a good filter. Some aftermarket filters may not be quite right and could cause knocking for a few seconds on a cold start.
Thank you for that info. I was just wondering if the 10w40 was too thick for this time of year. I dont see much 15w40. I have used 10w30 during the winter before but wondered if it was too thin. I dont drive long distances very often so i figured it would b fine. My truck is a 78 F150 4x4 351m 120,000mi.
I always use Motorcraft filters and other parts. Recently started using Lucus oil so im not sure now about its sticking ability like they claim. I used just the hot rod oil without any other additives. Should i use the Lucus oil treatment? Would it increase the stickability?
I think that Lucas hot rod oil is a good choice, it should be fine all by itself. I've been looking for a high-zinc motor oil that won't break the bank. Might buy some myself. The only thing with a "racing" oil, if that's what it really is, they don't always have the detergent package and some of the additives that ordinarily allow for 5,000 mile oil changes. It isn't that they aren't good oils, they are, but they are designed for different applications. Sometimes those engines get rebuilt every season, valve springs replaced after every race, stuff like that. Just because something is suitable for racing does not necessarily mean it is a good idea for a street driven motor.
From what i was reading about it, it seams its mostly for show cars and mild race applications, not daily drivers.
Like u i have been searching for a good oil thats not too expensive. I have also considered Shell Rotella T4 which has zinc and mix in a quart of the Lucus oil treatment.
While the noise does mean "something", it is likely not critical. Be sure the anti-drain back valve is operating correctly. Due to the filter's orientation, it would help. I don't know what part of the world you're in, but if the winter's temperature doesn't preclude, you could try a bit more viscous oil. In the 70s, Ford said that 20W-40 was O.K. down to +10F.
I use 20W-50 or 15W-50 year round, but it seldom gets down to +32F here any more. If possible, try to figure out what's doing the knocking. Usually it's something like connecting rod, piston, or something in the valve train. When the oil pressure "comes up" the excessive clearance is taken care of by the oil. If it's something in the valve train, you may be able to fix it without a complete overhaul. Collapsed lifters, bent push rods, and loose rockers are relatively inexpensive to correct. And as always, drive slowly until the engine reaches full operating temperature.
I don't think it's possible, or at least practical. If it's a Motorcraft filter, it's probably fine. Filters are inexpensive, could try another one, and see if the cold knock goes bye-bye.
How would i check the ADBV? Do i need to take the filter off?
The only way I know is with the filter off the engine. Fill the filter with oil. Plug the outlet. Invert the filter. If nothing runs out the valve is working. As mentioned, the Motorcraft filters usually do well on this subject.
Not sure if it has anything to do with the weather getting colder here. I started noticing the other day that when i start my truck cold in the morning it will slightly knock for 2 seconds, maybe 2 or 3 knocks and then it smooths right out. Recently changed the oil with Lucus Hot Rod oil 10w40. I dont like multivicosity oils. The engine has 120,000 original miles. Am I looking at a total rebuild soon? Dont have the money right now. How long should I wait?
Someone already mentioned use motor-craft oil filter , and that can be a big issue on some motors as there are some really bad filters out there , also you can add some zinc additive as our old engines need this an newer oil isn't like the older oils these days , I would maybe do a good flush of the engine with a good additive , this will help clean the oil pump pickup tube an screen , maybe even try some sea foam ,
Someone already mentioned use motor-craft oil filter , and that can be a big issue on some motors as there are some really bad filters out there , also you can add some zinc additive as our old engines need this an newer oil isn't like the older oils these days , I would maybe do a good flush of the engine with a good additive , this will help clean the oil pump pickup tube an screen , maybe even try some sea foam ,
A flush maybe in order. I have never done one on an engine.
The zinc thing is controversial, at least the additives in a bottle, the link provided below a guy tested lots of motor oils. He claims the additives made the oil worse in terms of lubrication. Motor oils are a base stock and additives, and adding stuff can screw that up. He also goes on to say choosing a motor oil with high zinc level is going about it the wrong way.
He also claims thicker heavy weight oils like 20w50 is not a good idea, using the thinnest viscosity oil that still maintains good pressure when hot is a lot better because it's oil flow that matters, at least more than a high pressure alone indicated on the gauge. This makes sense, I guess.
He didn't have much nice to say about "break in" oils either. Interesting reading anyway.
It's pretty long, so save it for some night when you have insomnia. Thanks to @hiball3985
(I think... LOL)