Engine Knock?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 119
Likes: 3
The zinc thing is controversial, at least the additives in a bottle, the link provided below a guy tested lots of motor oils. He claims the additives made the oil worse in terms of lubrication. Motor oils are a base stock and additives, and adding stuff can screw that up. He also goes on to say choosing a motor oil with high zinc level is going about it the wrong way.
He also claims thicker heavy weight oils like 20w50 is not a good idea, using the thinnest viscosity oil that still maintains good pressure when hot is a lot better because it's oil flow that matters, at least more than a high pressure alone indicated on the gauge. This makes sense, I guess.
He didn't have much nice to say about "break in" oils either. Interesting reading anyway.
It's pretty long, so save it for some night when you have insomnia. Thanks to @hiball3985
(I think... LOL)
Oil Myths
He also claims thicker heavy weight oils like 20w50 is not a good idea, using the thinnest viscosity oil that still maintains good pressure when hot is a lot better because it's oil flow that matters, at least more than a high pressure alone indicated on the gauge. This makes sense, I guess.
He didn't have much nice to say about "break in" oils either. Interesting reading anyway.
It's pretty long, so save it for some night when you have insomnia. Thanks to @hiball3985
(I think... LOL)
Oil Myths
Wouldnt a thinner oil break down faster? Sometimes I drive long distances and my engine always seems to be borderline over heating. I have done everything I can think of for that so that will have to be another thread.
I used driven breakin oil on my last rebuild. It was only in for a couple hundred miles and seemed good.
What do u think about flushing the oil system?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
He's in favor of using lighter viscosity oils with high flow oil pumps. Or put another way, to use the lightest viscosity oil that also maintains sufficient pressure when HOT e.g. 10 lbs/1000 RPM. One of the important functions of motor oil is to carry away heat, and good oil flow is what does that. Engines with worn mains and other bearings may benefit from a heavier oil. I just tested my old Y-block after replacing oil pump and it has close 60psi hot at 2,000 RPM and 35 psi at idle using 10w-40, so what he's saying sort of makes sense to me. A modern 5w-30 is way better than whatever they were using in 1964, and the pressure would still be fine. Amsoil is one brand that tested very highly, and a few others, mostly synthetic.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 119
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What manufacturer? He talks about this (at length) LOL. Don't say I didn't warn you. Not gonna argue for or against this school of thought. It looks to me though, like he's saying using a top rated oil, elevated zinc isn't necessary, and, some of the oils marketed as containing zinc for old school engines and flat tappet cams aren't particularly very good in terms of wear protection. Hm.
He's in favor of using lighter viscosity oils with high flow oil pumps. Or put another way, to use the lightest viscosity oil that also maintains sufficient pressure when HOT e.g. 10 lbs/1000 RPM. One of the important functions of motor oil is to carry away heat, and good oil flow is what does that. Engines with worn mains and other bearings may benefit from a heavier oil. I just tested my old Y-block after replacing oil pump and it has close 60psi hot at 2,000 RPM and 35 psi at idle using 10w-40, so what he's saying sort of makes sense to me. A modern 5w-30 is way better than whatever they were using in 1964, and the pressure would still be fine. Amsoil is one brand that tested very highly, and a few others, mostly synthetic.
He's in favor of using lighter viscosity oils with high flow oil pumps. Or put another way, to use the lightest viscosity oil that also maintains sufficient pressure when HOT e.g. 10 lbs/1000 RPM. One of the important functions of motor oil is to carry away heat, and good oil flow is what does that. Engines with worn mains and other bearings may benefit from a heavier oil. I just tested my old Y-block after replacing oil pump and it has close 60psi hot at 2,000 RPM and 35 psi at idle using 10w-40, so what he's saying sort of makes sense to me. A modern 5w-30 is way better than whatever they were using in 1964, and the pressure would still be fine. Amsoil is one brand that tested very highly, and a few others, mostly synthetic.
I was refering to Ford. Don't they recommend using zinc? Im not trying to argue either. Just getting this straight in my head. So an oil treatment would have negative benifits since they are always very thick? Unless there are clearance issues because of wear?
Maybe my oil is too thick for this time of year. Seems like we have come full circle and are now back at the beginning. Not looking to change the oil right away since i just did that. Maybe i could benifit from a thinner oil but not sure how good the oil pump is. This truck is very original, still has mostly stock parts. What do u think about an oil system flush?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Sometimes gum and carbon will cause rings to stick in the piston grooves, a solvent may help there. It is important that the rings move freely. The concern though, is that a "flush" might turn loose crud and stop up the oil pump pickup screen, or plug an oil gallery. If there is evidence that sludge is excessive it would make sense to drop the oil pan and clean it all out, and make certain the screen is clear. This is a real good idea if an engine hasn't ran in a long time.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 12
From: KY
I have heard both arguments about zinc and for now I use it , and I use Valvoline 10w-40 , have been weighing the option of using a Valvoline synthetic but my engine only has about 30,000 since it was rebuilt years ago
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,244
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Go onto Mobil 1's site and read what they say about zinc, ZDDP, etc. They say a flat tappet engine absolutely needs it and they make full synthetics wit high ZDDP for this reason. On their charts for intended use, you will see "flat tappet engines". If you don't believe them, go read some articles from Crane Cams about the testing phase they had to go through in figuring out why so many of their cams were getting eaten up years ago... it was because oil companies lowered the amount of ZDDP due to it harming catalytic convertors. Whe nCrane figured that out they recommended a high ZDDP oil, additive, or using special treatments on their cams... and the problem went away.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Dec 2017
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I would not doubt it a bit if there is sludge in there. Thats why i wasnt sure about doing a flush. May drop the pan if we get some better weather but going into winter Im not holding my breath. Wish I had a garage to work in.
Have not done a compression check since it runs fine but Im sure it couldn't hurt.
I have done a lot of research into zinc. When i bought the comp cam for the last rebuild, they recommended using it.
Not sure what else to do. Guess I will have to wait it out and hope its good til spring.
Have not done a compression check since it runs fine but Im sure it couldn't hurt.
I have done a lot of research into zinc. When i bought the comp cam for the last rebuild, they recommended using it.
Not sure what else to do. Guess I will have to wait it out and hope its good til spring.
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