Ball Joint
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2011
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Ball Joint
If a ball joint is not replaced when it starts making the typical clunking sound, will it begin making a different sound as it gets more worn out? And what are the dangers of not replacing it?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2006
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Truck may begin to be steering, wind and road crown sensitive.
Steering begins to be added too by worn parts such that you are making constant corrections.
Get the ball joints for both sides, the tools to get then out of the spindle/knuckle.
Wheel comes off, other parts are disconnected as needed to make the change.
Top control arms are much simpler. You can't replace the top joints separate from the control arm.
When replacing the control arms, put them back in the same position the old arms came out of then go for alignment.
Do not use heat on any parts such as stock ball joints. It's dangerous, they will blow apart because the internal pressure cannot escape until they blow.
Check Tie rod joint for play, check the steering idler for wear, check the sway bar for bad links and bushings.
Good luck.
.
Steering begins to be added too by worn parts such that you are making constant corrections.
Get the ball joints for both sides, the tools to get then out of the spindle/knuckle.
Wheel comes off, other parts are disconnected as needed to make the change.
Top control arms are much simpler. You can't replace the top joints separate from the control arm.
When replacing the control arms, put them back in the same position the old arms came out of then go for alignment.
Do not use heat on any parts such as stock ball joints. It's dangerous, they will blow apart because the internal pressure cannot escape until they blow.
Check Tie rod joint for play, check the steering idler for wear, check the sway bar for bad links and bushings.
Good luck.
.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 52
Likes: 1
From: Detroit
Yeah, if it has been making that noise for more than a month or two (and you know it is worn and your ball joint is what is making the noise), then you should replace it. As stated above, when it fails you lose steering and have a very high chance of crashing. But even if you dont crash, the wheel being loose like that while driving will likely cause severe damage to things like your brakes, other steering components, and potentially things like you shock, spring, lower control arm, wheel well, etc.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 0,0,1
Yes you'll get different sounds like crash, bang, clunk, slam, and screaming. As to the dangers of not replacing it, see my previous sentence.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2011
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Thanks guys.
I ask because for awhile I was getting the clunking I could feel thru the steering wheel. Then an intermittent flapping sound started to happen that I could feel thru the floor board not the wheel at all. That seems to have evolved to more of an intermittent metal to metal vibration. I still get the clunking sometimes. I think I got both sounds at the same time the other day. So I'm now thinking that I've got two different problems happening. It's definitely coming from the front end. I know it's not engine related cause I can put it in neutral & the sound doesn't change. It's kind of as if the sway bar is vibrating against what it's mounted to. But the brackets, bushings, & links look fine. Everything looks ok under the front end & in the wheel wells. I'm usually good at identifying sounds but this one is strange.
I'm currently broke after having a huge vet bill to pay & it's my only vehicle.
I ask because for awhile I was getting the clunking I could feel thru the steering wheel. Then an intermittent flapping sound started to happen that I could feel thru the floor board not the wheel at all. That seems to have evolved to more of an intermittent metal to metal vibration. I still get the clunking sometimes. I think I got both sounds at the same time the other day. So I'm now thinking that I've got two different problems happening. It's definitely coming from the front end. I know it's not engine related cause I can put it in neutral & the sound doesn't change. It's kind of as if the sway bar is vibrating against what it's mounted to. But the brackets, bushings, & links look fine. Everything looks ok under the front end & in the wheel wells. I'm usually good at identifying sounds but this one is strange.
I'm currently broke after having a huge vet bill to pay & it's my only vehicle.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,931
Likes: 180
put a floor jack under the A frame ( lower control arm) and lift the tire 2 inches off the ground.. Do NOT jack under the truck frame, you want the weight setting on the spring and shock... Now take a 2 x 4 about 4 ft long and push the end under the tire pointing straight out to the side... lift the 2 x 4 and the tire which will compress the spring/ shock an inch or so... look a the ball joint while doing this and see if you have excess movement. there should be no SLOP in the ball socket... Also grab the tire front and back side and PUSH / PULL like your trying to turn a corner... Look at the tie rod and joints and see if there is horizontal SLOP.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
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Your talking about the UPPER control arm, right ?.... Normally the LOWER you press out the joint and install new.. The UPPER ball joint gets replace with the control arm.......... One easy way is to clean around the mounting bolt head and nut, then spray a little WHITE paint on the bolt head and 1/2 inch onto the frame. Let it set for 30 minutes to dry. When you remove the bolt there will be a circle where the washer was setting. Reassemble in the same spot.
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Cross-Country
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Thanks Steve. Yes, I was talking about the upper arm.
I did as you said with jacking it up & using a 2x4. I had to do it with the wheel turned so I could see the joints & the 2x4 at an angle rather than sticking straight out. I hope that didn't make a difference. I didn't have enough strength to compress the shock at all. But I'm pretty sure I could see the type of movement you describe in the left lower joint which I think is the only one that has never been replaced. I compared it to the right lower joint which didn't seem to move like that.
I'm doubting that the joint is the only problem though because of the sound I'm hearing & that I'm feeling it thru the floor board rather than the steering wheel. But we shall see.
I got the joint & loaner tools from Advance Auto. I couldn't afford the MOOG brand so I had to go with the cheap Driveworks brand. It was about half the price of the MOOG.
Does anyone know why there are standard size & over size joints? I went with standard.
Now I need read how to do it.
Should I grease the new joint or is it pre-greased? And how often there after?
I did as you said with jacking it up & using a 2x4. I had to do it with the wheel turned so I could see the joints & the 2x4 at an angle rather than sticking straight out. I hope that didn't make a difference. I didn't have enough strength to compress the shock at all. But I'm pretty sure I could see the type of movement you describe in the left lower joint which I think is the only one that has never been replaced. I compared it to the right lower joint which didn't seem to move like that.
I'm doubting that the joint is the only problem though because of the sound I'm hearing & that I'm feeling it thru the floor board rather than the steering wheel. But we shall see.
I got the joint & loaner tools from Advance Auto. I couldn't afford the MOOG brand so I had to go with the cheap Driveworks brand. It was about half the price of the MOOG.
Does anyone know why there are standard size & over size joints? I went with standard.
Now I need read how to do it.
Should I grease the new joint or is it pre-greased? And how often there after?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 377
Likes: 3
Thanks Steve. Yes, I was talking about the upper arm.
I did as you said with jacking it up & using a 2x4. I had to do it with the wheel turned so I could see the joints & the 2x4 at an angle rather than sticking straight out. I hope that didn't make a difference. I didn't have enough strength to compress the shock at all. But I'm pretty sure I could see the type of movement you describe in the left lower joint which I think is the only one that has never been replaced. I compared it to the right lower joint which didn't seem to move like that.
I'm doubting that the joint is the only problem though because of the sound I'm hearing & that I'm feeling it thru the floor board rather than the steering wheel. But we shall see.
I got the joint & loaner tools from Advance Auto. I couldn't afford the MOOG brand so I had to go with the cheap Driveworks brand. It was about half the price of the MOOG.
Does anyone know why there are standard size & over size joints? I went with standard.
Now I need read how to do it.
Should I grease the new joint or is it pre-greased? And how often there after?
I did as you said with jacking it up & using a 2x4. I had to do it with the wheel turned so I could see the joints & the 2x4 at an angle rather than sticking straight out. I hope that didn't make a difference. I didn't have enough strength to compress the shock at all. But I'm pretty sure I could see the type of movement you describe in the left lower joint which I think is the only one that has never been replaced. I compared it to the right lower joint which didn't seem to move like that.
I'm doubting that the joint is the only problem though because of the sound I'm hearing & that I'm feeling it thru the floor board rather than the steering wheel. But we shall see.
I got the joint & loaner tools from Advance Auto. I couldn't afford the MOOG brand so I had to go with the cheap Driveworks brand. It was about half the price of the MOOG.
Does anyone know why there are standard size & over size joints? I went with standard.
Now I need read how to do it.
Should I grease the new joint or is it pre-greased? And how often there after?
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 61
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Well I took the steering knuckle off to be able to get at the lower ball joint & noticed that the upper ball joint boot is totally torn. So now I'll also be replacing the upper control arm.
One thing I don't know is if the arm gets installed so it's level or at an angle. With the ball joint apart from the knuckle my arm stays at about a 4 o'clock position.
One thing I don't know is if the arm gets installed so it's level or at an angle. With the ball joint apart from the knuckle my arm stays at about a 4 o'clock position.