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Probably related to the discontinuation of the 4R100 it's meant to attach to, no?
The bottom line of deep pans is all they do is increase thermal mass of your fluid. That means it takes longer to reach operating temp (or perhaps overheat). One could argue a tiny improvement of cooling through the pan, but if someone ran the numbers (not me) they'd probably find any increase in surface area of the pan was more than offset by the increase in volume, therefore reducing the cooling through the pan.
That is a large part of it.
From my testing when I was responsible for automatic transmission cooling I also found that the pan is in a VERY hot environment. The air around the pan can be well over 200°F. That isn't enough delta T to cool the fluid, in fact, often the air around the pan is HOTTER than the ATF in the pan. That doesn't work too well when you want to cool the ATF.
Another problem with using the pan for cooling is that there is a boundary layer of ATF in the pan. The ATF right at the pan doesn't seem to move away from the pan, and that acts like an insulator. THat may actually be a good thing, it prevents the hotter outside air from heating the ATF too much.
From my testing when I was responsible for automatic transmission cooling I also found that the pan is in a VERY hot environment. The air around the pan can be well over 200°F. That isn't enough delta T to cool the fluid, in fact, often the air around the pan is HOTTER than the ATF in the pan. That doesn't work too well when you want to cool the ATF.
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I suppose you could call it an upgrade. The deeper pan is slightly better. It is better when the vehicle is on a slope, the pickup will stay under fluid at a steeper angle than a shallow pan.
While we're on this topic I have a question or two. I had a rebuilt trans put in about 4 years ago and this one is doing its thing. It has a deep mag tans pan on it, I forget what brand. My trans fluid, according to the gauge, only hits like 150, maybe 160. I think I read that too cool is not good either and wonder if I'm running too cool, if maybe my gauge is inaccurate or what. My sensor is in the bottom of the pan and not in the pressure port like is recommended. So...is that too cool? Does it indicate something not working right? What, if anything, should I do about it.
With the sensor in the pan, your temps are about right. The pan, especially the bottom, is the coolest place you can read the temperature. The real temperature of the transmission is quite a bit hotter than what you think it is.
Everybody says that ALL 4r100 uses deep pan,but that is F-Series ONLY.
So in Econoline you MAY have shallow or deep pan from the factory.
Moving to deep pan from shallow is an "upgrade",right Mark?
Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
I suppose you could call it an upgrade. The deeper pan is slightly better. It is better when the vehicle is on a slope, the pickup will stay under fluid at a steeper angle than a shallow pan.
Just make CERTAIN to order a new filter screen to match the pan, otherwise the benefit of steep angle fluid pickup may be lost.
The stock OEM filter screen housing that is matched to the shallow pan on the 2000 E-350 does not have a long enough pickup tube to be appropriate for the deeper stock stamped 4R100 4WD and Super Duty pans of the same era.
I'm guessing that maybe the service filter specified for a 2000 E-350 might be a Motorcraft FT-113, which may have superseded Motorcraft FT-108, Engineering number YC3P7G186AB, FCSD number YC3Z7A098AA (Not verified personally, as I have the steeper angle, deeper sump stock stamped pans).
I changed my 2WD 1998 E-Series pan to the deep pan (with a stock drain plug no less, as the original had none) and purchased a new Motorcraft FT-114 filter screen, that has the longer pickup tube that reaches deeper into the pan profile recess that helps make fluid available when the vehicle is steeply inclined/declined.
Bottom line, if you change pan design, make sure and match the filter to the pan.
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