Harsh shift E4OD
Im getting a pretty hard 1-2 shift then a harsh/weird 3-4 shift. The 1-2 harsh shift happens at higher rpm, 2000-2300. When I nurse the throttle it’s not as bad, but not as much fun to drive!
The speedometer has a bit of a waver in it, so I have replaced the VSS sensor and pigtail with motorcraft parts from Riffraff. No change in shift and little change in speedometer.
I have removed the wiring harnesses from the MLPS, TPS, IVS, and the one on the passenger side of the transmission and cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner. No change.
On order is a new TPS, but now I just want to see if there is a code being thrown before I throw anymore guesses at it. Other guesses at the moment are MLPS and PSOM.
Any code readers that are sub $50 that will work with an iPhone 6 or possibly my wife’s laptop that would show why this transmission is shifting this way???
Thanks for any help, really want to get this thing shifting right without anymore part guessing!!!!!!
Transgo's plate could have been in there before the trans was built, having too large of feed holes.
fairly sure that the transgo kit was installed with the recent rebuild, TUGGER is written on the side in perm marker
Would a good code reader be able to tell me what sensor could be causing my rough shifting issue?
For your best chance you need something to read live data:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html
Get Forscan on a PC and a Bluetooth OBDII adapter that communicates using the SAE J1850 PWM protocol.
Now my disclaimer: I haven't used Forscan to diagnose an E4OD but I have seen a lot of what it will do. It's great and you need it anyway.
A manual like ATSG or the Ford manual gives step by step diagnostic flowcharts.
You can check the MLPS/TRS with a multimeter. You can plumb together a pressure gauge at any hydraulic hose store. Buy the gauge online.
There are a couple guys over on the gasser forum who speak PSOM like a first language.
The speedo is not dead steady in my F350 like my 2019 vehicle. Hell, my 80s Mercedes are more steady. Mine moves maybe 1mph up and down cruising in the truck. The F150 is worse.
I still think the feed holes in the accumulator body plate could easily be too large for your low stall converter. I made a mistake like that on a 4L60E I built long ago. Too much feed hole for the band and servo combination with the PCM's line pressure curve. It was okay at very light throttle. Harsh at half or more. Hard as hell at wide open. Swapped in a plate and left the feed hole smaller, no problem since.
Either way, I am in for information to learn what in the end is the issue.
Mark K on here designed the E4OD, search for him and see if he can assist you.
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What I don't know is how to read codes on the early Powerstrokes. The people that created the software for those trucks did some really strange things.
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I will be getting the Forscan software downloaded and an ELM327 code reader soon to see if it can display what is going on. After reviewing how to take the dash apart to accessing the PSOM I’m less intimidated by the process. But still don’t want to go through spending a bunch on rebuilding the unit if it’s not the culprit.
Question about replacing the accumulator plate.
You mean the plate that came with the transgo kit? How far into the transmission do I have to go to get the plate swapped out with a new one? I’m never done anything on an auto transmission but a drain/fill, pan drop and filter change. I’m a Shade tree mechanic at best👍
To review the problems I’m having:
When I shift into reverse, there is a few second delay in engaging the gear.
When transmission is cold or hot, from a complete stop at anything past half throttle, the shift from 1-2 is delayed into the 2200 rpm range and is usually a hard shift. At less than half throttle it is tolerable.
If i go from complete stop then 3/4 throttle/WOT, the transmission will shift hard from 1-2. Then shift from 2-3 at somewhat harsh shift. It will then not utilize third as long as a few seconds, and go into 4th. This again is at WOT.
Finally, with these symptoms does anyone feel like I’m damaging the transmission by continuing to drive it this way? I am babying it around most of the time, mostly cause that’s how I drive it but also because i get sick of feeling the harsh shifts! They are not normal. Transmission has about 8k miles on it.
thanks for any help with this issue, I’ve been scratching my head and throwing a few parts at it here and there for a few months! Getting sick of it.
a bit more $$ but maybe a better product?
The first thing I went to replace when this all started was my VSS sensor. The old one looked original and when it came out it was oily and not too covered in metal shavings as it’s magnetic. So I put in a new motorcraft VSS along with a new pigtail for good measure. Little change in symptoms of shifting poorly and bouncy speedo.
I then checked and cleaned all contacts and wiring from the rear differential, the TPS, and all the connections to transmission. Still not much change. Then I pulled the new VSS to try the old one after throughly cleaning it, and the new one came out covered in metal shavings with one small strip of metal stuck to it. Cleaned that all off and reinstalled, truck shifts quite a bit better.
Rear diff fluid was dirty when I pulled the rear cover off, but thankfully No damage to any gears inside other than the few tone ring teeth that are a bit pitted and rusty.
Waiting for gasket to dry before I add fluid for test drive. Pretty sure shifting will be improved with all metal shavings off the VSS but the tone ring is the main culprit I have a feeling.
Will update after test drive
Some things i have also done to mine.
cleaned VSS, replaced VSS connector, replaced and correctly rigged MLPS, replaced MLPS connector, replaced solenoid pack connector, cleaned all other electrical connections between transmission and PCM, cleaned chassis grounds and soldered terminal lugs on all battery cables. Transmission fluid and filter replaced, and transmission oil cooler upgrade to 2005 6.0 version. Also no codes or flashing OD off light. Max fluid temperatures i see are 190 during 100F days and towing 7K travel trailer.
Mostly interested in the TPS.
Some things i have also done to mine.
cleaned VSS, replaced VSS connector, replaced and correctly rigged MLPS, replaced MLPS connector, replaced solenoid pack connector, cleaned all other electrical connections between transmission and PCM, cleaned chassis grounds and soldered terminal lugs on all battery cables. Transmission fluid and filter replaced, and transmission oil cooler upgrade to 2005 6.0 version. Also no codes or flashing OD off light. Max fluid temperatures i see are 190 during 100F days and towing 7K travel trailer.
Mostly interested in the TPS.
I would take off the rear diff cover and check out the tone ring. I put the rear end on jack stands so I could spin tires in neutral to look at the whole ring. Mine is mostly solid, except for a few inch long areas where the teeth points have been pitted by rust. Probably just enough to create an air gap in the VSS reading. Rust formed I assume after the previous owner let the truck sit for long periods.
Im waiting for the gasket maker I used on the diff cover to set up before I add fluid to see i I notice a change in shifting. 24 hours it says and it snowed here last night so maybe a bit longer...
My diff fluid was bad, lots of metal flakes in it and probably overdue for a change anyways. Once the VSS sensor was cleaned a few days ago and all metal flakes and bits were removed, shifting greatly improved.
Silly question. Do the aftermarket 6 position tune chips improve the shifting strategy when compared to the origial posters description of the E4OD shift behaviour?









