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I thought on the later models there isn’t an adjustment for the TPS? It’s just a matter of unscrewing the old one off and and screwing the new one back on.
I thought on the later models there isn’t an adjustment for the TPS? It’s just a matter of unscrewing the old one off and and screwing the new one back on.
There isn't, but it sounds like lots of people still adjust them by boring out the holes as yardbird and torqta suggest. The forum boards are a mixed bag depending on the thread.
I used the round file, for chainsaw chain sharpening, and just file on one side of each hole, so you dont take chance on breaking plastic hole for screw, trying to drill out, it doesnt take much on each screw hole to get adjusted
Good to know. Work and life are keeping me busy this week, but looking forward to getting back to it this weekend. Will let you all know how things go.
Hey gang, happy Saturday. Finally getting back to it. To revisit the TAB/TAD vacuum line topic, see image below. I've followed the green line back around to plenum. I can't see anywhere that's got a missing connection, and the hose is cut on each end with a break near the T bend on right side. However, the green hose is still connected on both sides of the adapter behind plenum. I suspect that doesn't matter since it's not connected to anything, which raises the question why did prior owner leave it there ... any concerns if I were to disconnect and remove those portions of hose?
Plan for rest of day:
1. Get new plenum and throttle body gaskets.
2. Reassemble everything.
3. Check TPS voltage.
4. Check timing.
5. Move on to vac system if still acting up ... I could hear what sounds like a loud hiss for a few seconds after truck shut off.
Wish me luck and cheers to learning as I go. Thanks again guys, you've kept me motivated to keep going.
Glad to hear you’re back at it. No problem removing the green vacuum hose from the loom, running it directly to the manifold tree is fine. You can only guess why a previous owner removed the two connection points but they are known to become brittle and break over time.
Glad to hear you’re back at it. No problem removing the green vacuum hose from the loom, running it directly to the manifold tree is fine. You can only guess why a previous owner removed the two connection points but they are known to become brittle and break over time.
To clarify, when you say run directly to vacuum tree, which line would that be? It couldn't be the green one, because that's cut in three spots. The only green vac line left is the EGR.
I apologize, I should have worded that a bit better. Since your green line is cut you’ll need to create an entirely new line with vacuum hose to replace it. The “green” line runs to/from the EGR and EVR solenoid. The “black” line runs to/from the EVR solenoid and vacuum canister (soup can). In an earlier post I think you mentioned the possibility of removing the soup can? In that case, you can run the “black” line to/from the EVR to the vacuum tree, bypassing the soup can. However, I think you are keeping the air pump operational? In that case, you’ll want to keep that soup can as I believe some of the vacuum lines for it are also tied into the soup can.
Man I hope I didn’t confuse you more? Either way you’ll be better off replacing the green line with new hose rather than trying to fix the cut up existing green hose.
I apologize, I should have worded that a bit better. Since your green line is cut you’ll need to create an entirely new line with vacuum hose to replace it. The “green” line runs to/from the EGR and EVR solenoid. The “black” line runs to/from the EVR solenoid and vacuum canister (soup can). In an earlier post I think you mentioned the possibility of removing the soup can? In that case, you can run the “black” line to/from the EVR to the vacuum tree, bypassing the soup can. However, I think you are keeping the air pump operational? In that case, you’ll want to keep that soup can as I believe some of the vacuum lines for it are also tied into the soup can.
Man I hope I didn’t confuse you more? Either way you’ll be better off replacing the green line with new hose rather than trying to fix the cut up existing green hose.
No plans to remove the soup can; I think I'm tracking with you though. I've drawn the black line, which I don't plan to touch but I follow the route from can to EVR solenoid. You are saying there does need to be a line running from the port on top of the EGR around to the solenoid on the other side.
What the previous owner rigged was a vacuum line running across the top of the plenum from the EGR solenoid to the EGR (yellow highlight in picture). That seems like acceptable since it's a short cut over the top rather than all the way around plenum, but still connecting at same two points, or am I missing something?
What you have pictured is correct. The highlighted black line is routed from the can to the EVR. The other line on the can, red, goes from it to the main vacuum tree on the manifold. The green line runs from the EGR valve to the EVR. Everything I see in your picture above is correct. Just double and triple check all the lines to make sure there aren't any holes in them.
What you have pictured is correct. The highlighted black line is routed from the can to the EVR. The other line on the can, red, goes from it to the main vacuum tree on the manifold. The green line runs from the EGR valve to the EVR. Everything I see in your picture above is correct. Just double and triple check all the lines to make sure there aren't any holes in them.
Well I had a feeling this was bound to happen sooner or later ... set torque wrench to about 15 lbs and she snapped right in half. Any recommendations?
Get a left hand drill bit of about 4-5 mm and drill it out. The first time it hangs the broken bolt will back right out.
Or weld a small thin steel piece to it and then just back it out.
10-16-2019, 06:09 PM
