I ordered COD F53 for my 2021 and I had to get a 20COD OBD programmer which reflashes the radio I don’t have access to forscan at the moment. I ordered it right from Nav TV you will need to call them and let them know what year your truck is and they will set it up for your truck.

 

Received mine today via Fedex and installed it right away in my '18 F350. Smooth install, seems to work perfectly. Took me about 30-45 minutes because I went slow. As luck would have it my Hill Descent Control switch arrived via USPS about 10 minutes after my COD F50 so I was able to kill 2 birds with one stone.

 

If you have a Tractor Supply near you you can buy a cheap set of pry tools. I've had 'em for years and they work very well.

This is a bigger set for a reasonable price:

 

Hey Frank, I understand this will work with other trucks (not dedicated only to 1/your truck). I have a 2021. Any chance you'll send it to me after you're done? (Loan it to me) I'll pay for shipping both ways and pay you $10.00 to help you pay for it.

It could be done with others too if you're interested?

 

I installed my F50 interface yesterday. The instructions for the install are clear and include a few color pictures. I would add this - study the cable connectors they include so you can easily see how to properly release them from their associated sockets. None of them are hard but if you don't understand how they work you could break one and have a real issue on your hands. It took about 40 minutes because of me being timid about disassembling the dash panels. Here's a few tips from my experience.

Prying the speaker grill off was the "scariest" part of this installation. It is seated VERY tight and felt like it would break prying up on it. I put a piece of thin plastic down to pry against with a nylon pry tool and it finally let go. When it did two of the plastic clips broke. Luckily I had a bag of them I had bought back when I took my grill apart. This is the part # if anyone is interested: Trim Molding Clip - Ford (W714972-S300). There are four mounting points - one in each corner. Once you pop it off there are two 7mm screws in the back of the tray panel. Remove them and then pry the front of the panel upward. Another tight fit but I did not have any clips break removing it. Once that top panel is off you will see two 7mm screws holding the dash bezel in place. Remove them and pull forward, working your way down each side. It will pop out and move towards you about 3 inches before the harnesses stop it.

There are three connectors across the top of my dash bezel. They all had the same style connector. However, it is hard to see them because the bezel doesn't pull out very far. Here is one of the connectors with the release tab identified. You push that little tab towards the connector body to release it. I found it worked easier if you first push the connector into the socket with a little pressure and then push the release tab. They pop right out - if you feel resistance you need to stop and try again. That release tab is on the right ide of the connector so I found it was easier to access from the passenger seat. Once the far right connector was released the panel would swing out a bit more, making it easier to access the two remaining connectors. Once they are loose you can tilt the panel down to clearly see and access the AC control connector and any others there. BTW - the three connectors across the top were not unique - you could plug a cable into the wrong switch. However, the cable lengths are such that it would be tough to do. If in doubt, take a picture before you disassemble.



Once you have the dash bezel unplugged it is literally a 10 minute process to install the module. Remove six screws from the screen, pull it forward, unplug the large harness, the antenna, the USB cable and set it aside. The instructions say to put the F50 module up under the speaker - I don't see how that is possible with the harness I had. It simply wouldn't reach. There is a large opening partially visible in the photo above, right above the radio chassis, below the screen. When you pull the screen out you will see a large open area behind it - I found it perfect for holding the module and for securing the harness so it wouldn't rattle. I took the opportunity to clean my touchscreen too - it looks brand new now.

I re-assembled the dash but did not snap all of the plastic in place. I started the truck to verify everything was functional. I noticed a few things - the initial boot up took longer than expected. I assume because the APIM and IPMB modules had to reboot and reload after having the power removed when the harnesses were taken off. After a few tense seconds with a blank screen, the Ford logo appeared and then it booted up. It seemed confused at first, the display flashing a quick 360 camera view, a GPS screen flash, etc. but then it settled down and looked normal. I noticed the GPS view was changed to the 3D mode and the clock time was an hour off. I went into the Navigation screen and noticed it hadn't locked onto my exact position. I pressed the camera button and verified all of the cameras were working. I took a short drive and tested all of the views, turn signal view operation, etc. It all works perfectly. After about a minute or so the GPS locked onto the road and from that point forward it was good to go. Satisfied everything was functioning properly I reassembled everything except the top tray.

I had ordered a Built Right dash mount so I took this opportunity to install it while everything was apart. Mo magic here - line it up, drill 4 holes, mount it with the provided screws. I liked the idea of the reinforcing plate on the bottom so I bought it too. This thing is nice - solid, powder coat finish. I think it looks like it belongs there and look forward to using it to mount a few goodies securely. Unless you have something pretty heavy to mount I would say the reinforcing plate isn't needed. The shape of the tray makes the plastic very sturdy when it is snapped into place.

 

@B-ManFX4
Thanks for the detailing of your installation. I ordered the F53 and it should arrive Wednesday. I have watched several YouTube videos on the install and others where the dash was taken apart. The more perspectives on the process the less intimidating it gets. Your connector plug tip is great. I saw in one video that the person connected a USB cable and left it accessible near the top speaker area should there be a need to update the new module. Did your kit have a cable or make a reference regarding future access to the module? Did you add a USB cable? Thanks again.

 

I saw the same video that you did and I left mine connected, however once you remove the top tray from the dash you can still easily access the box to hook in the USB cable. I initially forgot to plug in the USB cable and was seating having to pull it all apart but you can easily get to it. I plugged mine in just to keep the cable there and available.

 

My F53 came in yesterday. I haven't installed yet as I'm waiting for my OBD2 adapter so I can make the programming change needed for the 2020. One plus is that this forced me to go ahead and make the leap to get forscan. Unfortunately, I just have mac, so I need to run an emulator and get it set up that way. We will see how it goes once I get time to figure out the forscan part.

 

THANKS Brian! I tried to add to your rep but I did that recently so it wouldn't let me do if for your very helpful post/tips.

 

Thanks for the write up!
FedEx delivered my f50 today on Easter Sunday!! Came in while we were loading up for our trip and was able to hook it up in about 30 minutes. I did the BuiltRight bracket awhile ago so wasn’t afraid to dig back in.
Perfect timing.

Gave it a quick test and seems to work great, also just placed the sticker on my trailer to get the reverse trailer view working.
Will give it a test run on an 8hr tow.

Thanks again for the group buy and everyone’s input!

 

To be honest I plugged my unit into my laptop computer and verified through their web site that the firmware was the latest for my application before I installed it. The USB cable is now in the "Automotive" drawer in my toolbox should I need it in the future but my life experience tells me that the chance of a vendor updating firmware for a working product for a truck already a generation old is not very high. If I were going to leave it connected I would look for a spot to leave it underneath the console so disassembly wouldn't be needed to access it. Having to take the top panel apart to get to it doesn't really solve anything in my opinion.

 

I don't do FORScan and didn't buy NAV-TV's $80 module. If I install the F50 kit and don't do the FORScan thing will everything work like stock until I can get the FORScan done?

 

i checked for updates on my built in March module and there was an update.

I also snaked the USB cable down the right side for future updates. Comes out by the air duct.