High Boys with Power Assist P/S: Use the manual steering gear box, because it has nothing to do with Power Assist.

Two P/S hoses, pressure and return, route from the pump to the control valve. Two P/S hoses, pressure and return, route from the control valve to the hydraulic ram cylinder.

Garrison Power Assist P/S: 1973 F250 4WD, 1974 F250 4WD before serial number T80,001.

Bendix Power Assist P/S: 1974 F250 4WD from serial number T80,001, 1975/76 F250 4WD, 1977 F250 4WD before serial number Y20,001.

Pic has wrong caption, includes 1977 F250 4WD before serial number Y20,001.

 

Blue Top is the "rebuilder" I am referring to. They seem like they do some high quality work.
Fordguy, What do you mean by "upgraded Bendix box"? He didnt mention it when I spoke with him on the phone. Mine has the Bendix system from the factory and not the Garrison.

440, did you have to cut a section out of your frame in the engine crossmember to install the Benchwork kit power gearbox?

I sent my original manual gearbox in to Blue Top as well since it seemed to be oozing grease from a seal.

 

Pay no mind to ND as he severely lacks the ability to read between the lines. I shouldnt have said box, I should have said unit but I was merely referrering to the power steering control valve. (which is what most people think of when referring to the word BENDIX... They remachine and add some parts to fix FORDs poor design that causes the leaks in the first place which is really the only reason I can see for it not to be a great unit. Also if ya dont mind.. what all did you buy? The power steering control valve is $300, power steering cylinder is $290, and the hose set is $75. Total is $665+shipping. Am I missing something? I only ask because this is on my list of things to buy because I too have no issues with Bendix and with the upgraded parts from Bluetop I REALLY have no issues with it. However my current unit just pukes out fluid so I need to fix that lol. Ahh also I see you sent the gearbox off too... must be the difference in price

Edit* I believe they have a post about what they do... I am trying to find it. Will post it up when I do.
Heres a quick excerpt from their site
We now machine all Ford pickup housings to put in needle bearings in the lower sector shaft portion of housing. Most of the 68-79 pickups did not have bearings for the sector shaft so after time the shaft would wear into side of housing. This is something that most re-builders won't do anything about. .
We are happy to be stocking and offering rebuild services for control valve units and full rebuild of all power steering cylinders. Control Valves are re-manufactured, tested and balanced. All cylinders are cut open to replace piston rings and to replace chrome shaft. Cylinders are re-welded and tested for leaks and internal bypass.


I call it an upgrade because well, they are making it better lol.

 

I have no trouble reading between lines, you said "Bendix box" I said there was no such thing with Power Assist.

I also posted the parts catalog pic of the two Power Assist P/S systems so people can see the difference between these two systems.

Edit: No 1965-21st century Ford/Saginaw P/S box, whether it's from a Passenger Car, F100/350, Bronco, Econoline, Ranger, Bronco II etc. has bearings on the sector shaft.

Ford/Saginaw P/S introduced in 1965 Galaxie/LTD, introduced in F100/250 2WD & F350 in 1969 from serial number D96,001.

 

Yeah yeah we all know you know everything. New flash not everyone uses the precise perfect terms all the time... hell highboy isn't even a ford term yet people use it. So I said box instead of some other term...We all knew I was talking about the bendix system and anyone familiar with it knows the differences between true power steering and these systems. No one was asking for you to dissect and post a vomit of knowledge stating why my random post was wrong.

 

Dan, no cutting on the frame at all. you do have to cut a little on the radiator bracket and shroud but it's not much. my high boy drives perfect and it's leak free. I couldn't be happier with the kit.

Installation was a breeze but I had my engine out at the time so that made it a little easier.

 

Is there a reason you went with benchworks over sticking with bendix and buying bluetop/redhead?
I thought there was some fabwork to get that kit working in Highboys. Sorry for the thread hijack but i think you'll appreciate the answers too OP lol

 

That's why I went with benchworks, no fab work and EVERYTHING you need is in the kit. they are a top notch steering box rebuilder as well so the box you get in the kit is like new. in my opinion it's the only way to go.

 

I see, I must have been thinking of another thread that they had to notch the engine crossmember to fit the gearbox. Notching the radiator bracket is something I can live with. Although I have already sent everything off to Blue Top so if it isn't up to my standards when done I may consider the conversion down the road.

Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of the steering components before sending them off. But the prices were $290 for the cylinder, $300 for control valve(drag link), and $335 for manual gearbox. I had intended to just reuse the manual gearbox but after seeing the oozing grease and feeling a bit of play I decided to send it in too. They do offer an exchange service but I specifically told him I want my originals rebuilt and returned. He said that was no problem. I wanted to do this because I KNOW they have not been abused and I am certain the cores are good.
I like how Blue Top replaces the cylinder shaft which tends to wear in the center and leak. They also offer the bushings for the end of the cylinder rod.
I already have all the new hoses, I think there was 4 total.

Bendix control valve(drag link)


Bendix steering cylinder



Manual steering gearbox used in conjunction with "power assist" steering

The bearing upgrade Fordguy is referring to is something that the Red Head/Blue Top companies offer but it does not apply to the manual gearbox in the highboys. It is available to the power steering gearboxes used on the non-highboy trucks of that era.
As I understand the original bushing used wears and causes slop in the gearbox, but with the housing machined out and the bushing replaced with the bearing this doesn't occur.

Numberdummy is there somewhere I can purchase a Ford parts manual for my truck? I remember seeing reprints on Ebay years ago but now I cant find anything. I have all manuals for everything I own, except a parts manual for this truck.

 

So I ended up having to take the chassis to my local machine shop to get the pittman arm off of the gearbox. I loaded it on the trailer with my loader and hauled it there. They removed it and made a new corner gussets to replace the rusted out ones on my chassis.



International 510 PayLoader loading highboy chassis onto trailer to go to machine shop.

 

Dang (it's dumb) but it's a shame only the gear box gets the "blue top". Wished the other parts did too (I believe redhead does) oh well minor things lol


Link to a parts catalog cd

Yeah hmm I may mention having mine rebuilt vs gambling on a core rebuilt from someone else. I'm not there yet in my build but collecting info nonetheless

Also I know you have to cut and notch the frame if you use steering parts from a 78/79. Maybe you were thinking about that ?

 

Fordguy, thats probably the one I was thinking of.

A few pictures of the frame repairs.
Looks a heck of a lot better than it did. I will remove them for sandblasting then reinstall after paint.

Right rear frame gusset repair

Left rear frame gusset repair

I also wanted to get the old brake calipers off before sandblasting the chassis. That was easier said than done. The little slider wedge piece was rusted fast on both sides. I soaked it with PB Blaster for weeks. All I did was mushroom the ends with the hammer and punch trying to drive it either direction. I did unbolt the caliper and get the caliper brackets to slide back and fourth but the wedge piece wouldn't move. I finally broke out the grinder and cut a groove in the wedge piece to allow the caliper bracket to be removed. Then I was able to beat the wedge out.

Removing the calipers the hard way....

 

Meanwhile I have started putting some of the sub assemblies back together for later. I put the rebuilt brake booster on the mounting bracket, and installed a new brake master cylinder onto the booster. This probably wont get installed until the new cab goes on the frame.



I also removed the clutch/brake pedal assembly from the original cab for later installation. I read on another thread NumberDummy said there were something like 30 pedal and bracket combinations! So I wanted to ensure I used all the stuff from my highboy to make sure its correct.

I have an upcoming trip for work and I was trying to get the chassis sandblasted and coated with the KBS Rust Seal, and BlackTop chassis paint before I left but my sandblaster is busy so it wont happen til I get back.

 

Great jump start on your restoration. I sure want to follow your progress.

Hey, those HUBCAPS that make you nauseated.... If you don't want 'em, I sure would like to get my hands on 'em. I am doing a resto on my '78 F150 and I am working on getting a set of those together. I have a set but i need parts to get one good set and a spare or 2.
PM me if you want to see 'em leave your place. I would hate for you to throw up everytime you walk by 'em.....LOL.

Keep up the good work!

Mike

 

Thanks Mike! PM sent.

I need some opinions on leaf springs. I plan to leave the truck stock height and had intended to put new leaf springs all the way around. Unfortunately by the time I pay shipping (about $250) I'm looking at about $800 to my door with new bushings installed.

I see nothing wrong with the original springs other than a lot of rust. Not sure if that degrades them much in their function. None are broken, and they dont seem to sag for 42 year old springs. But changing the spring bushings would probably be a nightmare on such rusty springs.

Any thoughts on reusing the old rusty springs and replacing the bushings? They will be sandblasted and painted. will sand get stuck between them and wear them with use? Does the rust make them brittle?