Bulletproofing my V10
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Central Indiana
Bulletproofing my V10
Ok. I know you don't "bulletproof" a V10. But I figured the title would get your attention. ;-)
If you read my other post you know I bought my Ex to do Disaster Response work in hurricane areas, etc. As such, I need it to be extremely reliable and as close to stock as it can be in case something does break in an area with limited services.
I have 202,xxx on a 2000 4x4 limited.
I already blew a plug out, so I know I need to do the mod to prevent that in the future. I will also do new plugs and coils (Motorcraft)
I am changing out the serpentine belt and idler pulley to basically prevent bearing seizes.
I plan on doing the alternator (Ambulance alt)
I plan on doing V and C code springs with the corresponding shocks.
I plan on doing the Banks / Y exhaust.
I plan on doing Hellwig anti-sway front/rear.
Can anyone give a parts list of other items I need to do on the engine, steering, and suspension? Know problem areas or common wear items? I really don't want to be 1,000 miles from home and 200 miles from an open parts store when something decides today is the day to quit. I would rather replace a part that is at 80% now.
If you read my other post you know I bought my Ex to do Disaster Response work in hurricane areas, etc. As such, I need it to be extremely reliable and as close to stock as it can be in case something does break in an area with limited services.
I have 202,xxx on a 2000 4x4 limited.
I already blew a plug out, so I know I need to do the mod to prevent that in the future. I will also do new plugs and coils (Motorcraft)
I am changing out the serpentine belt and idler pulley to basically prevent bearing seizes.
I plan on doing the alternator (Ambulance alt)
I plan on doing V and C code springs with the corresponding shocks.
I plan on doing the Banks / Y exhaust.
I plan on doing Hellwig anti-sway front/rear.
Can anyone give a parts list of other items I need to do on the engine, steering, and suspension? Know problem areas or common wear items? I really don't want to be 1,000 miles from home and 200 miles from an open parts store when something decides today is the day to quit. I would rather replace a part that is at 80% now.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
these guys can certialy bulletproof your Ex.
International Armored Group IAG Home ? Armored Vehicles Commercial and Tactical, Cars, Trucks, CIT, APC, MRAP
International Armored Group IAG Home ? Armored Vehicles Commercial and Tactical, Cars, Trucks, CIT, APC, MRAP
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 880
Likes: 13
From: Northcentral Wisconsin
Change the complete timing set and the oil pump as long as you have access to it. It's tough to get the oil pickup tube bolts out and back in with the oil pan on, but it can be done. I used a Cloyes timing set and a Melling oil pump.
Put a set of Banks headers on it. The stock studs break off and cause a leak at the manifold. I don't believe anyone with the Banks headers has had a bolt break again. I bought the whole power pack. It was a nice little boost in power.
I removed the vacuum lines to the front hubs. I replaced the fittings in the knuckle with pipe plugs and installed Warn hubs. If the unit bearings haven't been changed, I would replace them. SKF are my preferred bearing. I don't think Spicer makes them.
Put a set of Banks headers on it. The stock studs break off and cause a leak at the manifold. I don't believe anyone with the Banks headers has had a bolt break again. I bought the whole power pack. It was a nice little boost in power.
I removed the vacuum lines to the front hubs. I replaced the fittings in the knuckle with pipe plugs and installed Warn hubs. If the unit bearings haven't been changed, I would replace them. SKF are my preferred bearing. I don't think Spicer makes them.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Timken is the OEM unit bearing but they are still the single most failure prone component on the super duty platform. the “bulletproof “ fix is dynatrac free spin kit and get rid of the non serviceable arrangement
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Central Indiana
So besides what I already planned, Dynatrec Free Spin timing upgrade, a new oil pump, and front hub bearings / vacuum lines. I know there has to be a lot more. Steering for instance?
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
depends how you plan to use the 4wd.
i have a free spin kit and it has eliminated my hub failures but in retrospect i should have swapped in a Dana 60 from a 06 or newer since i have also converted to the coil front suspension. the 06 still uses unit bearings but they are significantly larger and stronger. with the dana 60 you get the added benefit of larger ring and pinion. locking wise, the oem style are plastic and weak. i would ditch the vacuum hub snd go manual. the dynatrac hubs are bomb proof, warns are also good.
steering, red head steering gear, spicer ball joints, spicer/motorcraft tie rods. nothing fancy needed, just quality parts.
i have a free spin kit and it has eliminated my hub failures but in retrospect i should have swapped in a Dana 60 from a 06 or newer since i have also converted to the coil front suspension. the 06 still uses unit bearings but they are significantly larger and stronger. with the dana 60 you get the added benefit of larger ring and pinion. locking wise, the oem style are plastic and weak. i would ditch the vacuum hub snd go manual. the dynatrac hubs are bomb proof, warns are also good.
steering, red head steering gear, spicer ball joints, spicer/motorcraft tie rods. nothing fancy needed, just quality parts.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Central Indiana
Primarily this will be a road warrior, but would like the 4x4 to be available if I get off the road and need it. Sometimes when we are in a disaster area we are diverting on some pretty narrow roads, and when that one ends up blocked turning around means going onto soft shoulders. Those are pretty much the only times I can see needing 4x4.
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
its a quandary with the hubs, on one hand the stock vacuum ones are handy but the require frequent maintenance and even then are wesk. i prefer mine to work when needed and no chance of breaking. manual hubs just work when needed most.
you can lock them before they are needed that way you dont have to get out in the mud, rain, snow whatever. just remember to unlock them before doing a lot of highway miles
you can lock them before they are needed that way you dont have to get out in the mud, rain, snow whatever. just remember to unlock them before doing a lot of highway miles
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
also, if you are going to be fording deep water be sure to run your axle and transmission vent lines higher then stock.
the free dpin kit alows you to take the front hub apart to service/ grease the bearings after being submerged, unlike the stock unit bearings that hate going for a swim. ( failure soon follows )
the free dpin kit alows you to take the front hub apart to service/ grease the bearings after being submerged, unlike the stock unit bearings that hate going for a swim. ( failure soon follows )
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Central Indiana
also, if you are going to be fording deep water be sure to run your axle and transmission vent lines higher then stock.
the free dpin kit alows you to take the front hub apart to service/ grease the bearings after being submerged, unlike the stock unit bearings that hate going for a swim. ( failure soon follows )
the free dpin kit alows you to take the front hub apart to service/ grease the bearings after being submerged, unlike the stock unit bearings that hate going for a swim. ( failure soon follows )
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
when you insatall new drive shaft ujoints get the greasable type and give a shot of grease after a dunking…. they dislike water. ( same with the front axle shafts and ujoint)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Actual V10 suggestions:
1) refurbished injectors
2) all new sensors
3) all new oem coils
4) new plugs torqued to 25 ft lbs
5) New IAC
6) New clips for injectors and coils
7) new fpr
8) 185 degree t stat
9) new clutch fan
10) new belts
11) flush and clean radiator
12) clean throttle body
1) refurbished injectors
2) all new sensors
3) all new oem coils
4) new plugs torqued to 25 ft lbs
5) New IAC
6) New clips for injectors and coils
7) new fpr
8) 185 degree t stat
9) new clutch fan
10) new belts
11) flush and clean radiator
12) clean throttle body
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
or
7C3E-8575-AB
Many say it's a 195 but if you open box there should be a 185 stamped on flange of tstat.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Central Indiana
Actual V10 suggestions:
1) refurbished injectors
2) all new sensors
3) all new oem coils
4) new plugs torqued to 25 ft lbs
5) New IAC
6) New clips for injectors and coils
7) new fpr
8) 185 degree t stat
9) new clutch fan
10) new belts
11) flush and clean radiator
12) clean throttle body
1) refurbished injectors
2) all new sensors
3) all new oem coils
4) new plugs torqued to 25 ft lbs
5) New IAC
6) New clips for injectors and coils
7) new fpr
8) 185 degree t stat
9) new clutch fan
10) new belts
11) flush and clean radiator
12) clean throttle body
Now I need to finish up the list for steering, suspension, and electrical. ;-)