Bulletproofing my V10
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Noooooo
There is nothing wrong with the spark plug hole on 2V motors.
The main issue was the recommended torque of 12 ft lbs. Torque new plugs to 25 ft lbs and you will be fine.
Check torque after 500 miles and your good to go.
There is nothing wrong with the spark plug hole on 2V motors.
The main issue was the recommended torque of 12 ft lbs. Torque new plugs to 25 ft lbs and you will be fine.
Check torque after 500 miles and your good to go.
New User
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Change the complete timing set and the oil pump as long as you have access to it. It's tough to get the oil pickup tube bolts out and back in with the oil pan on, but it can be done. I used a Cloyes timing set and a Melling oil pump.
Put a set of Banks headers on it. The stock studs break off and cause a leak at the manifold. I don't believe anyone with the Banks headers has had a bolt break again. I bought the whole power pack. It was a nice little boost in power.
I removed the vacuum lines to the front hubs. I replaced the fittings in the knuckle with pipe plugs and installed Warn hubs. If the unit bearings haven't been changed, I would replace them. SKF are my preferred bearing. I don't think Spicer makes them.
Put a set of Banks headers on it. The stock studs break off and cause a leak at the manifold. I don't believe anyone with the Banks headers has had a bolt break again. I bought the whole power pack. It was a nice little boost in power.
I removed the vacuum lines to the front hubs. I replaced the fittings in the knuckle with pipe plugs and installed Warn hubs. If the unit bearings haven't been changed, I would replace them. SKF are my preferred bearing. I don't think Spicer makes them.
Hey man, would you be able to let me see ask you a few questions about this. Just need a little guidance. Thanks
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 890
Likes: 156
From: Gainesville
If you go with Banks headers, go one step further and send them to Jet Hot for a ceramic coating inside/outside.
This will help burn unused fuel resulting in more power and better gas mileage. If you have the patience, port match your head to the headers for better flow.
Install a free flow muffler like a Flowmaster. I have the 50 Series, but you may want the 40 Series for a louder sound and better flow. To take full advantage of your fuel burning ability, get a 5 Star Tune. It’s not as accurate as a custom/on the dyno tune, but it’s better than nothing.
Swap out your worn out body mounts with polyurethane bushings. Big PIA, but the results of a connected body to frame are priceless.
6.0 transmission cooler is huge compared to the OEM 6.8 and 7.3.
Deep aluminum finned transmission pan for more fluid and better cooling. Spin-on remote transmission filter (only if you are extremely ****).
OEM aluminum finned rear differential cover for better cooling. (Don’t buy the block looking cover(s). They may look cool, but do not help spin the fluid around the gears like the OEM).
At least two (2) spare tires. In a disaster zone, there are all sorts of sharp debris on and off the roads.
Tire patch kit and air compressor.
Fresh wiper blades and Rain-X windshield fluid.
I’ll probably think of something later, but this is a start. Hats off to you for being a helper guy.
This will help burn unused fuel resulting in more power and better gas mileage. If you have the patience, port match your head to the headers for better flow.
Install a free flow muffler like a Flowmaster. I have the 50 Series, but you may want the 40 Series for a louder sound and better flow. To take full advantage of your fuel burning ability, get a 5 Star Tune. It’s not as accurate as a custom/on the dyno tune, but it’s better than nothing.
Swap out your worn out body mounts with polyurethane bushings. Big PIA, but the results of a connected body to frame are priceless.
6.0 transmission cooler is huge compared to the OEM 6.8 and 7.3.
Deep aluminum finned transmission pan for more fluid and better cooling. Spin-on remote transmission filter (only if you are extremely ****).
OEM aluminum finned rear differential cover for better cooling. (Don’t buy the block looking cover(s). They may look cool, but do not help spin the fluid around the gears like the OEM).
At least two (2) spare tires. In a disaster zone, there are all sorts of sharp debris on and off the roads.
Tire patch kit and air compressor.
Fresh wiper blades and Rain-X windshield fluid.
I’ll probably think of something later, but this is a start. Hats off to you for being a helper guy.
MUST GO FASTER!!!!
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 1,538
Likes: 356
From: Arizona
Some good ideas here, but also some that need some feedback...
And I'll add one more, sure there will be nay-sayers but it works, If you drive a lot in the burning hot desert, 100+F a lot, the 180 or 185 degree thermostat makes an immense difference, and allows you to tow, run hard, etc, without the engine temps getting too high, even when its 115^F outside, I am in Arizona down in the desert, my truck has seen many a 115-120 degree day, with factory thermostat if i was running really heavy the temps would creep up to where it would make me nervous, but not critical per se, doing the thermostat dropped the temps down even on hot days, enough that its safe to drive the truck normally and not have to baby it. Some people might argue, but the jist is that the 180 opens a lot sooner than a stock one, so it helps prevent a temperature spike. It seemed to make a ~20 degree difference to the Cylinder Head temps when i did it, sometimes more.
If you go with Banks headers, go one step further and send them to Jet Hot for a ceramic coating inside/outside.
Not a bad idea but one detail is a bit off see below.
This will help burn unused fuel resulting in more power and better gas mileage. If you have the patience, port match your head to the headers for better flow.
Ceramic coating the headers is nice, but the statement that it will help burn unused fuel and that this will somehow increase power is incorrect, porting can however.
Install a free flow muffler like a Flowmaster. I have the 50 Series, but you may want the 40 Series for a louder sound and better flow. To take full advantage of your fuel burning ability, get a 5 Star Tune. It’s not as accurate as a custom/on the dyno tune, but it’s better than nothing.
I have used 3 different tuning companies in my modding and racing days, 5 Star tunes are nothing noteworthy, the biggest thing they have going for them is the towing tune transmission changes, other then that its null, i saw zero power gain/throttle response gain engine wise with all 5 Star Tunes. When the canned SCT Provided Tune puts more umph in the truck than a vendors custom tune, it says something...
Ive done tunes both canned, as well as actual dyno tunes for numerous vehicles including, 3 Mustangs (4 seperate motors), 2 x 3V V8 Expeditions(2005, 2009), and my V10 Excursion, Stick with the Canned SCT Tune until you are ready/willing to go get a custom tune, save the money, just score a locked or unlocked SCT X4, get it unlocked online if needed, and the SCT Canned Tune is already in it with minor adjustments you can tweak yourself.
Swap out your worn out body mounts with polyurethane bushings. Big PIA, but the results of a connected body to frame are priceless. All Good ideas no issue here!
6.0 transmission cooler is huge compared to the OEM 6.8 and 7.3.
This one is a big one, The usefulness of this item on the list cannot be under-stated, especially if you tow, a overheating transmission can contribute to overheat of an engine, and damage other things including the trans.
Deep aluminum finned transmission pan for more fluid and better cooling. Spin-on remote transmission filter (only if you are extremely ****). Optional but good still.
OEM aluminum finned rear differential cover for better cooling. (Don’t buy the block looking cover(s). They may look cool, but do not help spin the fluid around the gears like the OEM).
I actually need to do this soon myself, care to recommend one, Im getting ready to have my rear axle fully rebuilt, gears changed, bearings, seals, the works, new cover would be a good cherry on top?
At least two (2) spare tires. In a disaster zone, there are all sorts of sharp debris on and off the roads.
I have 4, on long trips i carry 2 or 3(1 in the back like normal, and 1 or 2 on the roof rack), but fully agree, if you are going into the SHIZ, plan for the worst.
Tire patch kit and air compressor. I omit the patch kit in lieu of having the extra spares, personal choice, but a good idea for some.
Fresh wiper blades and Rain-X windshield fluid. Dude, I cannot find wiper blades that work good and dont go to heck within a month when its sunny....
I’ll probably think of something later, but this is a start. Hats off to you for being a helper guy.
Not a bad idea but one detail is a bit off see below.
This will help burn unused fuel resulting in more power and better gas mileage. If you have the patience, port match your head to the headers for better flow.
Ceramic coating the headers is nice, but the statement that it will help burn unused fuel and that this will somehow increase power is incorrect, porting can however.
Install a free flow muffler like a Flowmaster. I have the 50 Series, but you may want the 40 Series for a louder sound and better flow. To take full advantage of your fuel burning ability, get a 5 Star Tune. It’s not as accurate as a custom/on the dyno tune, but it’s better than nothing.
I have used 3 different tuning companies in my modding and racing days, 5 Star tunes are nothing noteworthy, the biggest thing they have going for them is the towing tune transmission changes, other then that its null, i saw zero power gain/throttle response gain engine wise with all 5 Star Tunes. When the canned SCT Provided Tune puts more umph in the truck than a vendors custom tune, it says something...
Ive done tunes both canned, as well as actual dyno tunes for numerous vehicles including, 3 Mustangs (4 seperate motors), 2 x 3V V8 Expeditions(2005, 2009), and my V10 Excursion, Stick with the Canned SCT Tune until you are ready/willing to go get a custom tune, save the money, just score a locked or unlocked SCT X4, get it unlocked online if needed, and the SCT Canned Tune is already in it with minor adjustments you can tweak yourself.
Swap out your worn out body mounts with polyurethane bushings. Big PIA, but the results of a connected body to frame are priceless. All Good ideas no issue here!
6.0 transmission cooler is huge compared to the OEM 6.8 and 7.3.
This one is a big one, The usefulness of this item on the list cannot be under-stated, especially if you tow, a overheating transmission can contribute to overheat of an engine, and damage other things including the trans.
Deep aluminum finned transmission pan for more fluid and better cooling. Spin-on remote transmission filter (only if you are extremely ****). Optional but good still.
OEM aluminum finned rear differential cover for better cooling. (Don’t buy the block looking cover(s). They may look cool, but do not help spin the fluid around the gears like the OEM).
I actually need to do this soon myself, care to recommend one, Im getting ready to have my rear axle fully rebuilt, gears changed, bearings, seals, the works, new cover would be a good cherry on top?
At least two (2) spare tires. In a disaster zone, there are all sorts of sharp debris on and off the roads.
I have 4, on long trips i carry 2 or 3(1 in the back like normal, and 1 or 2 on the roof rack), but fully agree, if you are going into the SHIZ, plan for the worst.
Tire patch kit and air compressor. I omit the patch kit in lieu of having the extra spares, personal choice, but a good idea for some.
Fresh wiper blades and Rain-X windshield fluid. Dude, I cannot find wiper blades that work good and dont go to heck within a month when its sunny....
I’ll probably think of something later, but this is a start. Hats off to you for being a helper guy.
1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
99 F350
Good morning enthusiasts, i have a 1999 F350 6.8 V10
I've had it about a month, ive replaced the alternator, the engine light is on , seems to be o2 sensors its gone off and on. I have a flatbed which is mainly surface rust and 1 bad area where they said the lime from a concrete mix ate it up, i wanted to samd it and rustproof it on the bed and beliw , any ideas how and best products 2 use. Also the truck on most any bump will shake you like Chubby Checker.....one said get new shocks and another mentioned airbags.. last one, promise, when the air is on or heat and they do their job pretty good, the pressure out of the vents is like nothing
I've had it about a month, ive replaced the alternator, the engine light is on , seems to be o2 sensors its gone off and on. I have a flatbed which is mainly surface rust and 1 bad area where they said the lime from a concrete mix ate it up, i wanted to samd it and rustproof it on the bed and beliw , any ideas how and best products 2 use. Also the truck on most any bump will shake you like Chubby Checker.....one said get new shocks and another mentioned airbags.. last one, promise, when the air is on or heat and they do their job pretty good, the pressure out of the vents is like nothing
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