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When I first bought it, It ran great. Sometimes still does.
It started out that it would not run after it got to 10-15mph and it would just almost feel like it would die but put it in neutral and step on the gas and it would rev up, so I put it back in gear and again it would run up 10-15mph and die again and when you stepped on the gas it wouldn't do anything until you put it in neutral.
So I decided to just start it up and let it warm up for about 15-20 minutes. It ran fine that way. Now on my way to work today it ran fine then I stoped at the store, turned it off, when I started it back up again it wnt back to dieing out. Well tonight after work it absoltely would not run over 10-15 mph.
Should I start at the tank, fuel pump, sensors or what?
I dont have alot of money right now to play around on it.
I have read alot of other threads n here and can't realy identify my prolems with there's.
So when it does work, it gives you a certian amount (say 15 mph) and then you can kind of hold it at that, but if you push the gas any more it sounds like it wants to die (or dies), but when you put it back in neutral it revs? If so, this is exactly what mine was doing recently and it gave me serious head aches until I replaced the fuel pump in the tank. Cost me $50 at autozone and the truck runs like new.
My condition also degredated over time. At first I'd get to drive about 20 min before I had problems. After a week, I was lucky to go five. After two weeks, the mile from my work to my house took 1/2 an hour because it was dying so much. Replaced that pump and all's cool.
Now I'm not a pro by any means, so check it out if you can (I couldn't, just dropped the gas tank and hoped for the best) before you get in to it. Oh, and be careful not to break those little ends off the fuel lines when you're taking off the tank, they're a pain to replace. Good luck, I hope I helped!
fuel system sounds like the best place to start but rather than the fuel pump i would start at the fuel filter. under no load conditions the fuel requirements are less than when under load. a plugged filter will eventually wear out the fuel pump . a worn pump would also cause what you describe but a filter is cheap and if it doesnt fix your problem you probably needed it anyway. remember it is usually the simple things that trick us into thinking the worse.
If this is a pump problem, I don't think it's weak, I think it has a bad wire. I would start with the codes and check the pressure ( maybe hook up a guage that can be left in place) see where that leads you.
Originally posted by BOJOFASO fuel system sounds like the best place to start but rather than the fuel pump i would start at the fuel filter. under no load conditions the fuel requirements are less than when under load. a plugged filter will eventually wear out the fuel pump . a worn pump would also cause what you describe but a filter is cheap and if it doesnt fix your problem you probably needed it anyway. remember it is usually the simple things that trick us into thinking the worse.
Yeah, he's so right. I replaced my filter first as well, should have mentioned that. Start simple, stupid , later
Sorry I forgot to say I allready put in a new filter.
That is about as far as I got. I am going to try to take down the tank this weekend ad clean it out somehow. Any suggestions on how to clean it out?
Originally posted by THOMASNMARTA Sorry I forgot to say I allready put in a new filter.
That is about as far as I got. I am going to try to take down the tank this weekend ad clean it out somehow. Any suggestions on how to clean it out?
I am also rying to figure out why I have a vacuum line blocked off. It comes out f the throttl body on the front. Someone said it should go to the canister but I dont ee an opening to the canister. Just lines from the egr valve vacuum control has lines to the canister on the inside fender. No other opnings.
Originally posted by THOMASNMARTA I am also rying to figure out why I have a vacuum line blocked off. It comes out f the throttl body on the front. Someone said it should go to the canister but I dont ee an opening to the canister. Just lines from the egr valve vacuum control has lines to the canister on the inside fender. No other opnings.
I'm pretty sure the other two go to those little things on the black pipes/hoses goming from the smog pump. On my 351 there's one in the back between the motor and the fire-wall and one on the left side. I think on the 302 it's on the front bottom left corner of the motor and along the left side, but I just looked at one once, sorry if this is wrong. The lines are like a cream and a yellow, right ?(the heat/age kinda discolored mine) If you've pugged the back of the heads then those lines should be blocked off, I think. If not, I don't know. Hope this helped a little. Later.
Last edited by Fry-man22; Oct 10, 2003 at 01:35 AM.
Well I changed both fuel pumps, cleaned out tank, and still have same darn problem. Cecked codes and they are 23(throttle position sensor signal out of range), 31(EVAP control system below minimum voltage), and 63(Throttle Position circuit fault, below minimum voltage). I have checked the TPS as far as voltage and the voltage doesn't go up or down when you accelerate, that means the TPS is bad right?
Right. You should have 1 volt with throttle closed and it should change smoothly as throttle is opened to about 4.5 wide open. If you are checking it at the sensor and it doesn't change, the sensor is bad.
That's good to hear that it's running good now. As for your vacuum line that's plugged (supposed to go to canister) I think the line you said came from the egr....I don't think that it the canister...I think that is a vacuum RESIVIOR. Your canister should run a vapor line to the fuel tank. Look on the frame rails for a line (about 3/8")that goes to a black can (plastic) That should be the canister.
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