Still Pinging
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Everton MO
After that first test drive it never got hot again. Vac adv is still disconnected because I am still tuning and adjusting. Would replacing the larger spring with a spring from the Mr gasket kit make for too much curve too fast? Just wondering so I don't waste my time swapping it.
So far it has been running great. I have it set to 8 ish degrees BTDC and once in a while the engine will turn over hard when I try to start it. I don't want to decrease the timing much more or I start to lose my acceleration.
I filled up my tank Monday evening so we will see how far it gets me, before I would get about 8 mpg.
So far it has been running great. I have it set to 8 ish degrees BTDC and once in a while the engine will turn over hard when I try to start it. I don't want to decrease the timing much more or I start to lose my acceleration.
I filled up my tank Monday evening so we will see how far it gets me, before I would get about 8 mpg.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Everton MO
It only kicks back and turns slow every once in a while. May just be my battery getting weak, im going to have it tested.
i still have to adjust my vac advance because as of now it will tap very very lightly when it is connected.
i still have to adjust my vac advance because as of now it will tap very very lightly when it is connected.
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Everton MO
I might have to start a new thread for this concerning the starter kick back. i Slowed my initial down a little so it wouldn't kick, but now my starter makes a grinding noise when i start it, almost as if it is only halfway engaging into the flywheel, and after cranking for more than 3 or 4 seconds it might slip out. Luckily i have a lifetime warranty on my starter so i am going to swap it today. All my cables are new to the starter and battery, battery solenoid and starter are all 5 years old.
I assume it is the starter being bad from all the abuse. It has been used alot.
I assume it is the starter being bad from all the abuse. It has been used alot.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Starters have a duty cycle, solenoid/relays too. It's something like 1/2 hour rest per 10 seconds of cranking. Normally an engine in good tune will light off in just a second. Nobody follows this when it won't start, I've heard people grind on starters continuously for a minute and a half, stuff starts smoking and melting. Gaaa!!! It roasts the varnish off the windings, eventually fails, gets cored, the "rebuilders" slap a coat of paint on it and ends up back on the shelf and eventually somebody else's truck.
If you can check current draw that is probably a good indication of starter health. They draw a lot even when healthy, maybe 100+ amps, but it should not exceed the spec in the shop manual. It can choke off the ignition if they hog all the juice, makes for hard starting.
If you can check current draw that is probably a good indication of starter health. They draw a lot even when healthy, maybe 100+ amps, but it should not exceed the spec in the shop manual. It can choke off the ignition if they hog all the juice, makes for hard starting.
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Everton MO
Thanks for the quick response, i love rebuilt parts, At one point i put 4 different alternators in my sisters jeep before buying new. I am going to make sure i get a NEW starter today. My engine starts immediately now that my timing is set and my choke works. but for the last 5 years is would sometimes take 5+ times cranking it to start it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
It's worth taking the time to make sure the mating flange on the block itself is clean and bright, grind down to shiny bare metal. This is where the electrical connection is made between the starter, not so much the bolts and hardware.
Physically tight doesn't necessarily mean electrically tight. To be honest I've never used a torque wrench on battery terminals in my life. The other day I was doing retorques on the engine after a heat cycle and on a whim I went ahead torqued the terminals to spec. These are good quality cables and terminals, not cheap lead terminals. Tight battery terminals, are important. (There is something to be said about a negative battery terminal that can be removed by hand ... but..)
Anyway then I noticed something. Normally, when I put a digital charger on the battery it typically shows a 77% charge shortly after an engine start. Now it shows 94%, which I thought kind of interesting. Slightly faster recharging from the charging system? Terminals, cables, alternators, starters, relays, all that stuff needs to be clean, and tight, or it won't work as well as it might. Now is the time to check, not January!
Physically tight doesn't necessarily mean electrically tight. To be honest I've never used a torque wrench on battery terminals in my life. The other day I was doing retorques on the engine after a heat cycle and on a whim I went ahead torqued the terminals to spec. These are good quality cables and terminals, not cheap lead terminals. Tight battery terminals, are important. (There is something to be said about a negative battery terminal that can be removed by hand ... but..)
Anyway then I noticed something. Normally, when I put a digital charger on the battery it typically shows a 77% charge shortly after an engine start. Now it shows 94%, which I thought kind of interesting. Slightly faster recharging from the charging system? Terminals, cables, alternators, starters, relays, all that stuff needs to be clean, and tight, or it won't work as well as it might. Now is the time to check, not January!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: Everton MO
Very true!! i cleaned the block surface and wire brushed all of my wire ends and bolts. A new starter fixed it, the old starter was oil soaked, looks like a rear main is my next project. Thank you for the info, just thought i would share what happened when you neglect your timing for so long.
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