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Adding 4 way trailer plug?

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Old Sep 15, 2019 | 08:09 PM
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Adding 4 way trailer plug?

I just got a small trailer to haul a toy behind the the 5th wheel when my pick up isn't around and need to add the plug for the trailer. Where would be the easiest place to get the power for the plug? Tap in where the wires go in by 5th hitch and run wire underneath along the frame to the rear?

I haven't crawled under to scope it out yet.

Thanks
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 03:36 AM
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Are the 5th wheel taillights surface mounted? I'd probably just drill a small hole in the bottom of the housing and tap a pigtail inside the light.
 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 05:03 AM
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The rear looks like this.

 
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 05:16 AM
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Under belly is where the wires for the taillights usually run.

Towards the rear of the under belly driviers side, see if you can access the wiring and then tap into it.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2019 | 08:48 AM
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I tapped the wires by hitch and ran them back to 7-way plug. I know over kill for just a utility trailer but never had good luck with 4-wire plugs. Just my .02
 
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Old Sep 19, 2019 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kgburns
Are the 5th wheel taillights surface mounted? I'd probably just drill a small hole in the bottom of the housing and tap a pigtail inside the light.
https://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies...-Lite/?id=3286
 
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 04:18 PM
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Keep in mind you need the following connections:

Ground
Running (parking)
Left Turn/Brake
Right Turn/Brake

So you will need to tap a source for all 4 of those connections. Most of the time ground is tied in to the trailer frame.

What ever you do - make sure you seal your connections well. This is an absolute must to prevent future problems. In trying to fix a wiring issue on a boat trailer I have a few weeks ago I got fed up with the spliced and taped wiring someone before me tried to do so I pulled all the crap out and did it the right way - with a new 4 way harness back to the leads to the individual lights, soldered the connections, and used heat shrink + epoxy to seal. I replaced the ground connection with a ring terminal and self-tapping #6 screw. Then I sealed it well with RTV.

Water intrusion (especially if you ever run any winter roads with the salt/brine) is a big problem for wiring. It won't take long for problems to start. So get a leg up on them and seal your wiring well from the start.

Also - the crimp style wire splices (the kind that "snap" over 2 wires to tie in to an existing circuit) are easy to use and insulated by nature, but they are poor options for trailer wiring like this (part of the junk I tore out on mine). Going back to sealing connections - the crimp splices may be electrically insulating, but they are a nightmare to seal from the elements.

There are a few brands of heat shrink tubing you can get that have a heat-activated adhesive/sealant that work well. I have some of 3M's tubing I've used for various things. I can't recall the brand I am thinking of, but there is a type of tubing that has a lot of adhesive in it and a 4 or 5:1 shrink ratio that is awesome, but pricey. I've usually made do with your basic/cheap heat shrink then a coating of 5 minute epoxy. Or, if I have it and several connections to do - 15 or 30 minute epoxy to lengthen the set-up time so I can get through the connections without my epoxy going to stiff goo before I'm through.

In any event, no matter where you tie in for the connections just make sure you keep everything sealed well. And you may want to go over the utility trailer connections to see what shape it is in - especially if it is a used trailer. Not many people take the time to seal properly.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2019 | 07:54 AM
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Good advice above. I always use heat shrink wire connectors but also use heat shrink tubing with them. I hate fixing things twice or chasing gremlins.
 
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