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I have one steel and one fiber resin gear. Do you guys think I should swap one or both to have both steel? I know this setup is bound to be quieter. But while I'm already inside, should I go ahead and swap?
If they are in good shape (fiber) with no swelling, flaking,or checking, I would not bother. The 300 is pretty simple to swap timing gears on. But if you are more comfortable swapping them when the engine is out, by all means, do so.
How many miles on it, and how do they look? You can swap to a new fiber and keep the steel, or swap both to steel.
If it shows wear and "chunkage", swap it out one way or the other.
Tis one o' life's great mysteries. Still reading the story off the truck. Most of the sheet metal had been replaced. Trans and frame are original. It's an 82 f100 with 300 6 towing a c6 behind it. Block has been swapped, not sure about the heads, still finding numbers. Block was cast at the end of 95 either August or September. Distributor is original. Date on it is September 14 1981.
Not sure actual mileage. Iirc odometer shows 32k. Motor looks to be in great shape. Exhaust manifold basically exploded which is what got me down to the frame motor and trans. There's just a bit of wear showing on the resin gear where the teeth engage. All else look new. I'd love to tear the motor completely apart and see what all has been done to it. Is it a stock crate motor or has it been built some? But that's not in the cards. It had to go back together pretty quick. For sure on a deadline. And I'm pretty well out of money for this project, but if need be can come by more I suppose.
A new fiber gear will buy you 100,000 miles to gather your thoughts and would be the cheap and fast way out. Serving suggestion. Try to get a Ford gear, try to avoid made in China. But as per post 3, there is no fire burning there, it will be fine.*
*"Fine, or "FINE, JUST BLANKING FINE!!", This is the internet you know. Everything will be fine. YMMV
I know some folks say resin is fine, others say they are crap. Pretty sure everyone is adamant about having a matched set and replacing them as a set. Thought it was odd I had one of each. If that's not a problem I'm fine with keeping as is. I have no worries about the resin gear crapping out based on how it looks.
What I am concerned about is timing and fuel economy. Have to go back and read up on timing curves and study up on vacuum cans and advance weights. Too bad there isn't a guy around here who has done all the leg work on that one that I could discuss it with.
The crank gears are always steel. The cam gears can be fibre. The later ones are much better than the earlier ones in terms of durability, just better phenolic's.
Ford has been using phenolic cam gears since the '30s.
As for timing ideally, you want all the initial in by 2500rpm ish. Your base will be a function of where the engine runs best with the final max initial setting.
Once that is done then you set up/adjust your vac advance.
There are no variable weights in Fords that is a GM thing, In Fords you adjust the curve with the springs and the reluctor, the reluctor determines the amount of initial available.
There is quite of bit of misunderstanding on the forum in regards to the initial or mech advance.
The timing curve will have a big impact on the perceived acceleration of the engine and fuel economy. In this era, the timing curve was set up for emissions and not necessarily economy or power.
With the Fords the initial set up is a PIA but once done will never have to be touched again.
The crank gears are always steel. The cam gears can be fibre. The later ones are much better than the earlier ones in terms of durability, just better phenolic's.
Ford has been using phenolic cam gears since the '30s.
As for timing ideally, you want all the initial in by 2500rpm ish. Your base will be a function of where the engine runs best with the final max initial setting.
Once that is done then you set up/adjust your vac advance.
There are no variable weights in Fords that is a GM thing, In Fords you adjust the curve with the springs and the reluctor, the reluctor determines the amount of initial available.
There is quite of bit of misunderstanding on the forum in regards to the initial or mech advance.
The timing curve will have a big impact on the perceived acceleration of the engine and fuel economy. In this era, the timing curve was set up for emissions and not necessarily economy or power.
With the Fords the initial set up is a PIA but once done will never have to be touched again.
I need to do more reading on timing in general and those processes. I feel like I have read many a great write-ups, but didn't retain anything. With any luck I have them all bookmarked on the computer. Also need to check to see if there are any good write-ups on here. Also don't know how timing lights work or what types there are.
Speaking of emissions. How you feeling about continuing the emissions thread?