Y block timing pointer
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 225
Likes: 3
LOL...Just call me sparkie!!
I just checked all the connections but didn't change anything. Shut the lights off went back in the morning and it was firing like it was suppose to...guess 3rd shift got it...lol
I just checked all the connections but didn't change anything. Shut the lights off went back in the morning and it was firing like it was suppose to...guess 3rd shift got it...lol
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 225
Likes: 3
Just has one point....got to check for a mark on the damper....checked it for a mark with a timing loght didn't see one...ran perfectly....got to get back to it this week and get the bugs out...
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
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So there is the problem, it is the wrong pointer.
You need to find the correct one. That damper only has a mark for 0. The pointer has the marks to 10 degrees. Right now, you can only time it to 0 degrees and that's assuming that the damper is good.
The damper you replaced would have had the marks on it, requiring a pointer with only 1 point.
You need to find the correct one. That damper only has a mark for 0. The pointer has the marks to 10 degrees. Right now, you can only time it to 0 degrees and that's assuming that the damper is good.
The damper you replaced would have had the marks on it, requiring a pointer with only 1 point.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
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From: tujunga, calif
I went through this last year on a guys truck that they had installed the early dampner. I searched high and low for a graduated pointer and never did find one. I took a measurement from 0 to 10 off another pulley and used that measurement to file a notch on the pulley. Not the most accurate method but better then nothing.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 225
Likes: 3
I went through this last year on a guys truck that they had installed the early dampner. I searched high and low for a graduated pointer and never did find one. I took a measurement from 0 to 10 off another pulley and used that measurement to file a notch on the pulley. Not the most accurate method but better then nothing.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
Thats a hard one to answer, each engine will require a slightly different curve depending on many factors. On my two street Y blocks I run a conservative 34 total on the centrifugal + 10 on the vacuum because of the Calif only blend crap gas. Setting at 34 total will leave the initial at 10. I leave how fast/rpm it comes in at the stock settings for the dizzies I have. They run fine on mid grade 89 octane.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
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Yep, not knowing the details of the build like bore, cam, etc. it makes it a guessing game. It ran well and performance was pretty good. Someone had changed the carb to a 4 barrel and it ran good. Sometime later the motor will most likely be updated but right now just trying to get it back on the road. We've been replacing rusty metal and doing all over repaint also so it has been a project.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,389
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It's not really a guessing game. You just have to try something, drive it to see how it does and adjust as necessary. A good starting point is 36 degrees total at 3000rpm, with 10-12 initial. Adjust from there based on the response of the engine.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
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Thks, that should be a good place to start. Got to check the damper for the timing mark and start figuring out what the vac advance is and the centri. adv is. Appreciate the info!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: tujunga, calif
Just a thought but you mentioned a 4V carb change, if it's a newer style carb on a 57 type manifold did the distributor also get upgraded to the 57 and later type?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
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The carb is a later model Holly chrome, 600 cfm I think, plated one...they had dressed the engine up some but the carb was way over jetted and I am trying to get that worked out. Fuel mileage less than 10
I dare say on a stock engine.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2015
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[QUOTE][/QUOTE
The carb is a 4160 style 600 cfm which I would think is too big....I think there is a 490 cfm....anyone ever try one on a 272 ? Came std with #64 primary jet and a 31 pump nozzle...no wonder it got less 10 mpg...
The carb is a 4160 style 600 cfm which I would think is too big....I think there is a 490 cfm....anyone ever try one on a 272 ? Came std with #64 primary jet and a 31 pump nozzle...no wonder it got less 10 mpg...
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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600cfm is definitely more than a stock 272 needs. Holley offer a 390 and 465. The carburetors that would have come with the 4v manifold are around 390 so 390 will be sufficient but 465 will be good if other bolt on mods might be applied. Either is still probably more than the 272 actually needs.
Another good one could be the Summit 500 carb. While it is more than needed, it has adjustable air bleeds which means that it should be able to be tuned very well for the engine. This is a feature that is not typically found in lower end carburetors and makes it suitable for a wider range of performance than a typical carburetor without adjustable air bleeds.
Another good one could be the Summit 500 carb. While it is more than needed, it has adjustable air bleeds which means that it should be able to be tuned very well for the engine. This is a feature that is not typically found in lower end carburetors and makes it suitable for a wider range of performance than a typical carburetor without adjustable air bleeds.