pitnam arm removal
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 7,970
Likes: 595
From: Greater Austin, Texas
I think they are talking about a pickle fork. Do not use that - the puller is the correct way to get it off the steering gear. If you are talking about the ball joint end, you just hit that on the side with a hammer to release the taper end. The same is true for ball joints and tie rod ends. All the pickle fork does is wreck your boots.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 534
Likes: 3
From: Chesapeake
I wound up using the fork and 4 lb persuader to beat the puller in between the arm and the steering box because mine was either drawn up so tight or the OEM brands teeth were too thick 
The fork was just right for hitting both sides of the puller evenly to drive it in to place to begin pulling.
The fork was just right for hitting both sides of the puller evenly to drive it in to place to begin pulling.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
When I went to replace the seals in the steering box on my '94 F-150 I had the box upside down on the bench with a good 2 jaw puller and I literally beat on the puller with a sledge hammer, no go. So I took the box to a welding shop, I thought they would have some sort of press to remove it, no. The guy heated up the arm and put it in cold water and I think he then used an air chisel to remove it.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
Separtating the pitnam arm from the steering box / steering sector.
Separtating the pitnam arm from the steering box / steering sector. That is my concern ATM.
Does using heat & then quenching it cause any issues? Does it weaken it or make it too britle?
Does using heat & then quenching it cause any issues? Does it weaken it or make it too britle?
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
maybe you ...
Maybe you could split it 3/4 of the way through towards the splined shaft. Then heat it & use the puller.
Hate to see you lose out on the core refund.
BTW, I'm in ND. Tons of rust on my rig.
Hate to see you lose out on the core refund.
BTW, I'm in ND. Tons of rust on my rig.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
I should clarify here. He used an air chisel with a blunt punch on it to pound the pitman arm off. He did not ruin the pitman arm. I called it an air chisel because I think that's what they are called.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
Likes: 149
From: South Dakota
In a case like this,NO.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,541
Likes: 54
From: Des Moines
A puller (whether or not it’s specifically a pitman arm puller) is the best method for avoiding damage to the shaft or threads. Many auto parts stores rent them. A pickle fork could damage the steering gear case but is fine for separating the linkage.
Use plenty of penetrating oil. Tighten down the puller and if you don’t see/feel it start to move, give the hex head of the puller 2-3 good whacks with a 2 lb (or larger) hammer - brass would be best to avoid damaging the head. It can also help to hit the collar of the pitman arm if you have the swing room. Then tighten the puller down some more, give it another few whacks, and repeat until it comes off.
As long as you’re able to tighten the puller bolt after hitting it with the hammer (at least 1/4 turn), the arm is moving.
Also, if you don’t want to remove the gear from the truck, sometimes you can gain working room by removing 2 of the mounting bolts, loosening the top one, rotating the gear downward, and then tightening the top one to kind of clamp it in place. You’ll have to disconnect the steering column to rotate it but you won’t have to remove the gear.
Use plenty of penetrating oil. Tighten down the puller and if you don’t see/feel it start to move, give the hex head of the puller 2-3 good whacks with a 2 lb (or larger) hammer - brass would be best to avoid damaging the head. It can also help to hit the collar of the pitman arm if you have the swing room. Then tighten the puller down some more, give it another few whacks, and repeat until it comes off.
As long as you’re able to tighten the puller bolt after hitting it with the hammer (at least 1/4 turn), the arm is moving.
Also, if you don’t want to remove the gear from the truck, sometimes you can gain working room by removing 2 of the mounting bolts, loosening the top one, rotating the gear downward, and then tightening the top one to kind of clamp it in place. You’ll have to disconnect the steering column to rotate it but you won’t have to remove the gear.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 30
Likes: 2
Just went through this, had a harbor freight Pittman arm puller. Tightened as tight as I could get it with a breaker bar extended with a pipe. I was starting to worry about breaking the puller it was so tight. A few wacks with a hammer and it came free. This is in PA where rust is plentiful.
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 263
Likes: 7
From: Upper midwest
arm ...
I spray PB penetrant on fasteners randomly. Just grab a can and hit everything I can find. Over the years it has paid off. Means less need for heat, cheater bars, and hammers. Mind you I say less need. Not no need.
Will be hitting it Monday. Will have all the stuff gathered by then.
BTW, I saw the snap on tool. Freakin sweet. But oreilly's tool will have to do.
Will be hitting it Monday. Will have all the stuff gathered by then.
BTW, I saw the snap on tool. Freakin sweet. But oreilly's tool will have to do.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 454
Likes: 97
From: SE WI
Edit: by really hot i mean glowing red, enough to see in the dark