I pulled my radiator today to see if the shop could fix it.
Now I have 2 rookie


questions:

1. It came out with the giant brackets that are soldered on each side. is that from the factory or after market?

2. if I have to settle on a new radiator do I need to have those brackets soldiered on?

thanks

rtc

 

1; Factory
2; What would hold it in then?

 

I can tell you that it's leaking at the corners, I brought mine in to an old school radiator shop a couple weeks ago, and it looked a whole lot better than that one, such as it was, and he claimed that they don't always respond well to brazing in that area. He said my radiator wasn't repairable because of leaking at the corners. I couldn't even really see it, he knew right where to look. Something something about it's very thin material in that location and it spreads and hard to braze and blah blah. I believe him. I thought it just needed brazing at the neck.

I can also tell you the cost of repair in labor might be more than you might think if a recore is necessary. So then realistically you're looking at replacement. I've no problem with the el-cheapo Champion aluminum radiator (so far) for my slick. If they make one for your application it should bolt right up. Make sure the inlet and outlets are the same size and same location. Brass radiators are more expensive relative to aluminum, for my truck it is north of $800 with shipping. Maybe someone more handy than I could fabricate brackets and find something that's close in size and make it work for a lot less money. It's not rocket science.

 

I believe that is the standard radiator. If you had HD cooling the radiator would cover the entire support opening. You could get an after market aluminum radiator wide enough that you won't need those what I call extensions. Or you could search for a HD radiator used or NOS.

 

The drawings I found didn't have the brackets.
Or I was reading them incorrectly.

rtc

 

On the upper tank if you look closely you might find some identifying digits and a date code.

Yours would be different than this but similar if its there. Post what it says or take a pic if that works better.

 

I had to look back through a few threads but found your truck has a 223. That engine wouldn't have had a choice for an Extra Cooling radiator. Nor did the 262. Only the 292 offered the option of an Extra Cooling radiator. Problem with that was the Standard radiator used in prior years (1962-63) became the Extra Cooling radiator in 1964 and the new Standard radiator was smaller.

 

With that said I must have a extra cooling radiator for a 63 and earlier 6 cylinder NOS. It has the big tank and covers the entire support opening. Bought it thinking it was for my 64 292 and got it home and the lower hose end is on the wrong side. I concluded that it was for 6 cylinder equipped trucks. To bad rtcapo lives in Florida shipping I am sure would be a killer.

 

Does Greyhound still offer shipping? That used to be a good alternative for oversize items.

 

Greyhound dumped Montana about 10 years ago. Wells Fargo still runs a stage coach thru here about once a month.

 

I got my radiator back yesterday, I asked my friend what the 2 other ports besides the drain plug were for.

He said that it came from an automatic transmission. My truck is a 3 speed manual.

It's not original equipment.

That true? I just figured they would manufacture one type and use same for both types.

Just curious.

rtc

 

So I got this radiator repaired...I thought I'd replace the hoses.

The new

lower hose makes the turns but is too long. Tough to see, flattens out on that I beam.

my In law...A classic Buick builder said I could cut the middle, shorten it and make an insert with pvc electrical pipe...and a couple more hose clamps.

Would that work for this I6 223?

I did see NAPA has a repair kit I can order online

For more $$ I found Hose Candy product.

Any hints, links or diy are greatly appreciated.

rtc

 

1) IF you are going to cut and splice a radiator hose, use a piece of copper pipe, not plastic. And soldier a small bead around the 2 ends so the hose has something to grip.

2) Most factory radiators do not have the transmission oil cooler for the automatic from the factory, however most aftermarket radiators today do.

3) Anyone that tells you he has to braze a radiator tube in an automotive radiator is wrong, they are soldiered, it takes way too much heat to braze, no automotive radiator has thick enough material to braze a tube.

 

I have a couple of 1963 radiators and they do not have squarish tanks like the one in the pics.