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Do you still have an EGR? If so it could be stuck open a little which creates a big vacuum leak and all the big vacuum leak problems like rough idle and stalling.
I run manifold vacuum on my 460 and when the vacuum advance diaphragm on the dizzy went bad, in gear idle RPM dropped down to 525 ish but it otherwise idled and ran okay.
My stock 86 460 has the fuel pump in the tank. Hard to believe 15 PSI fuel pressure. I would think the carb would be running over! Stock fuel pressure is 8 PSI for a Holley but I think you need A little less for an Eddie.
I do and the egr is not hooked up. Was told a little earlier in the thread not to mess with it yet.
Has it always been disconnected or did you just do that as part of your diagnostics? If it’s stuck open just disconnecting the vacuum line won’t fix it.
Has it always been disconnected or did you just do that as part of your diagnostics? If it’s stuck open just disconnecting the vacuum line won’t fix it.
I don’t know never had touched it. I did spray that thing down with carb cleaner with the truck running and there was nothing.
Mini update. Timing looks like it fine. Hard to tell exactly where it was but it was around 10.
I guess i need to find a way to check that fuel pressure at the carb to rule out a fuel issue. I bought a vacuum gauge as well so I’ll check that out soon. I have to admit after I did the rotor yesterday it seems better. Maybe it’s in my head but I do wish it idled a bit higher at times and adjusting the screws is really hit or miss.
I don’t know never had touched it. I did spray that thing down with carb cleaner with the truck running and there was nothing.
Unless the EGR valve has an external leak, the spray test won’t do anything even if stuck open. It routes exhaust gas, not ambient air, into the intake manifold.
Probably the easiest method for testing is to unbolt it and make a sheet metal block off plate. Use the gasket as a template, but without the hole in the middle. See if it runs better then.
I’d also figure out that high fuel pressure. Don’t know if your gauge is wrong or the pressure is really that high. Not sure about the 460, but my ‘84 351W 2bbl is rated at 6-8 psi.
Another update... vacuum fairly steady at 18.5. It was bouncing maybe .5.
Well I’m not cured... drove it this morning about 4 miles stop and go and it stalled out 3 times trying to back into my parking spot at my destination. I THINK we got it narrowed down to a fuel or carb problem based on vacuum results? One thing I haven't done is replace the fuel filter so I'll do that first, but after that I guess I need a fuel pressure gauge.
Just as a reminder, I have an electric in tank fuel pump that runs along the frame rail through the filter and on to a fuel pressure regulator at the front of the engine before going on to the carb. I would assume I need to test the fuel PSI before the regulator first to make sure the fuel pump is good? If that's correct what PSI should I be looking for?
If the fuel pump is good I guess I can then tie in again after the regulator to see if the regulator is the issue? If I had to put money on the issue I might put it on the regulator being the problem. What I really wanna do is just replace that and see what happens but I got scolded by yall last time for skipping diagnostics!
I did not read you whole last post but if it ran good to/from where you went but stalled backing into the parking spot I would say the filter is good (where I stopped reading ).
If it was starving for fule it will happen under load/ driving not at idle low load parking.
Dave ----
I did not read you whole last post but if it ran good to/from where you went but stalled backing into the parking spot I would say the filter is good (where I stopped reading ).
If it was starving for fule it will happen under load/ driving not at idle low load parking.
Dave ----
I wouldn’t say it drove good on the way. Idle was still lower than I’d like (400-500 in drive) and I still feel like it was stumbling some. Although to a MUCH less existent than before I did everything I’d done. Previously it would stall out at stop lights and low speed turns. Not as bad now but it’s still there.
Can you bump the idle up a little to see what that does?
It maybe after the bump just driving it it may get better as the fresh gas cleans every thing.
Dave ----
Slapped on a new fuel pressure gauge and it was running at about 7psi at idle in park. I adjusted the regulator and got it down to 5.5. Went for a short drive and the idle is much smoother. I think at this point is can play with the idle screw and moisture and MAYBE things will be in good shape. Will update.
I realize this thread is running out of steam but my issue isn’t solve and I’m near the end of my rope with this thing. Below is what’s been done and a video of the BS still going on.
Tests: battery is strong, charging system fine at all rpms, vacuum reading was steady within .5 at 18.5, timing was just about at 10, fuel pressure at the carb set to 5.5 at idle with edelbrock 1406 carb.
Video was taken with warm engine. Park idle at 1000 and then immediately dropping 400-500rpm in gear. Foot on break and then wheel turn causing a stall out.
I realize this thread is running out of steam but my issue isn’t solve and I’m near the end of my rope with this thing. Below is what’s been done and a video of the BS still going on.
Tests: battery is strong, charging system fine at all rpms, vacuum reading was steady within .5 at 18.5, timing was just about at 10, fuel pressure at the carb set to 5.5 at idle with edelbrock 1406 carb.
Video was taken with warm engine. Park idle at 1000 and then immediately dropping 400-500rpm in gear. Foot on break and then wheel turn causing a stall out.
And still, you have not isolated the brake booster or the other vacuum sources and checked it.... As I had said, I have a suspection as what it is but until you can do this it can not be ruled out.
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