LOL don't lump me in with this mess i have not commented on the thread.. I suspect he has 2 separate issues carb and or poor connection/cable. But the cables need to be sorted first before the carb is looked at.

 

I get it. You guys act like I wasted 5k. I spent less than $100 to replace 2, 35 year old parts. I kept the old ones if that makes you feel better. I would have most likely replaced them regardless. Me putting $500 into this thing in ignition parts, the charging system, and a tune up is something I wanted to do anyways. I’m learning... when something goes wrong in the future I want to have an idea on how to do things and or have an idea of where to start. This is a blooming hobby... maybe I did spend $100 that others wouldn’t have. But I gained some experience and knowledge. I never had even done as much as an oil change before I got this truck.

i apologize that I made a mistake and I appreciate the help and feedback.

 

the original post to me sounds like a vacuum leak

 

Yeah I’m not sure a full tune up will do the trick.

Carb or vacuum issues sound intimidating to me.

 

that was my next thought...fuel filter

OR....
check the piece of rubber fuel line connecting the hard fuel lines underneath the driver side rear. they get dry rotted and crack

 

I noticed your other thread about parts identification and saw your clear fuel filter. when the truck is acting up does your filter have gas in it?

 

Its cool man we're just giving you a hard time. No problem, you are doing more repairs than most people and learning while at it. Carbs and all that are really easier than they sound, I had my reservations at first, but after diving in head first it wasn't bad at all. Youtube and this forum are all ya need.

 

Before replacing parts you need to check to see if it is actually the parts that have failed otherwise you will just be throwing parts at it hoping to fix it.
We have a lot people on the board that automatically jump to swapping parts but that does not educate you nor teach how systems work nor rule out other issues. Yes, many times when A is not working it is a result of part B not working. But if you do not diagnose you do not know for sure.
On these trucks, electrical connections and cables are on the short end of 40 years old and should ALWAYS be checked first BEFORE replacing bits. On newer vehicles, you can assume the wiring is sound but even then it does not rule out testing the component before actually replacing it..

 

It seems to always have gas in it. But I’ll double check next time I start it.

 

Understood. Thank you.

 

Been reading a lot of old threads. Starting to suspect there could be a vacuum issue associated with the brake booster. Looks like there could be a leak there and I do notice a sound when i press the brakes. Not sure if i would describe it as hissing but definitely noise sounding like air releasing. Hard to describe. I don't notice that the idle gets worse with braking b/c it will stall when rolling to a stop or in park. Going to try a couple of things later. Gotta figure this found!

 

I had a booster that was definitely leaking. Try spraying it with starting fluid or carb cleaner while engine running and listen for the engine sound change--if no change, no leak there.

if its leaking, it will suck the mixture into the engine and will burn differently than gas.

 

Disconnect the vacuum supply line from the booster, plug it, then start the engine and see if its behavior changes. If it does, you have found at least one problem.

 

Booster is definitely hissing. But didn’t change idle when I played with the vacuum line in several ways. And doesn’t change idle when I press down pedal in park or drive in my drive away.

I changed out 7/8 plugs yesterday. Got to get one stubborn plug then I’ll go to wires, cap/rotor. I did start it and it idled a little better. The old plugs were burnt to a crisp. Real nasty.

Ill report back today but here’s maybe 2 more clues. Idle drops down much lower when I put it in gear from park to drive/rev. Even when the idle was alittle better last night in park. Also, my lights inside and out dim like crazy when the truck is running. I don’t want to say the word flickering up they all go from bright to dim with the idle. Up and down... they’ve done this since I’ve gotten the truck. So not something new after replacing alternator/regulator.

 

Close analogy, but I think it's more like going to the doctor due to dizzy spells. That could be caused by low blood pressure. But without even checking blood pressure, the doctor goes straight to a heart transplant.

The preceding was industrial strength satire. We're all trying to get you to slow down, that's all. The other option is we break out the forum's tranquilizer dart gun. It's a lot of fun and all, but those darts are expensive.

In your latest post, you mentioned the lights are fluctuating bright and dim. You weren't very specific, but are they following engine RPM or fluctuating on their own? Either way, this is once again a YUGE clue. Wish you would have mentioned this earlier. If you don't have a voltmeter yet, put on a ski mask, knock over a liquor store, and use the proceeds to buy a $7 meter at Harbor Freight. Pick up a battery charger while you're in there. Keep the ski mask on so nobody sees you shopping there. But for goodness sake, charge that poor battery, check the stinkin' alternator output, and report back. From your very first post in this thread when the starter wouldn't spin the engine, it sounds like your battery has been run way down. Remember, a depleted battery can self-recover to some extent after sitting for several hours, so the fact that it restarted the next day does NOT mean all is well. And please, oh please, do not rush out and buy a new battery, starter, ignition switch, etc. We can walk you through how to test those components if needed.

Fix one thing at a time and then retest. You may very well have a vacuum leak at the brake booster. Sounds like your spark plugs are shot, too. I bet the plug wires are on their last legs. Maybe a mouse has built a nest inside the carb, too. All in due time. Troubleshooting 101: Fix the known faults first, even if you think they aren't responsible for the present symptoms. And if you do suddenly feel a quick, sharp sting, please don't pull out the tranquilizer dart. It's for your own good.