Hey, going to replace the drivers side seat cushion and cover, those look like big Torx that bolt the seat down. I'm thinking it will take something on a breaker bar to get them loose, any one know what size they are?

I've searched the forum, haven't seen anything on bolt size. Thanks for all you help.

Ben

 

TP55, that's Torx Plus. Slightly larger prongs in the Torx bit for added...torque. You might get them off with a regular T55, but for a 19-year-old van, they might be stuck in there pretty tight and you'll risk stripping the bolt. I found a TP55 bit on Amazon a year and a half ago, sorry, don't remember what it cost, but not a lot.

 

Would agree with everything there ^^^---emphasize that its a Torx PLUS bit--very important. Here's a link to the best tool out there IMHO: . You can use some PB Blaster et al on the underside for a few days prior to trying to remove the seat base. If there's a "trick" its to make sure the bit is fully inserted into the bolt head, use very hard downward pressure and pull s-l-o-w-l-y until you feel the bolt begin to move.

The rear nuts should be 18MM---at least from '97 forward that's what was used.

IF the bolt head strips you'll have to drill it out which won't be easy. The upholstered seat frame can be removed from the base by removing the four nuts holding it all together. Poking around under the seat you'll see them. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal about 15 minutes prior to unplugging the seat lap belt pre-tensioner---this avoids any stray currents from causing the SRS or air bags to deploy.

HTH

 

Thank you, JWA and giffenf, this helps a lot. It looks like something that needs a breaker bar put on it. I'll order the TP55 plus and do the PB Blaster for sure. And the tip on unhooking the battery is a good one, I'll be doing that too.

I bought the seat from The Seat Shop, in their video they recommend removing the seat completely, is that best in your opinion? Can it be replaced in the van? I'm replacing the seat and the cover.

Thank you, I love this forum.

Ben

 

*meant to say bottom seat cushion and cover

 

+1 to the battery disconnection concept. I replaced both of my front seats (there's a thread here about that somewhere) and didn't do that, yet somehow I managed to not blow myself up. Thinking about it after the fact, I kind of wondered what I was thinking, if anything.

Yes, a breaker bar is a good idea. I bought a 1/2" drive breaker bar that's 18" long. The TP bit is a 3/8" drive so I use an adapter so I can have the advantage of the longer bar. I took the back two rows of seats out of my E-350 and have to occasionally put them back in, so once I got the bolts out the first time, I lubricated the holes so they insert/remove fairly easily, and now when I have to deal with the seat bolts, I break 'em loose with the breaker bar, then put the TP bit in my drill to take them the rest of the way out (or put them back in). I keep the breaker bar and TP bit in the van so I always know where it is, plus sometimes I have to strap down cargo, so I have some eye bolts the same size as the seat base bolts (M12 and M14) and the breaker bar facilitates putting those in and taking them out, too. The bar might make a good self-defense weapon, too, if I ever needed it. Hopefully it'll never come to that.

 

It's much easier doing almost anything to the seat when its removed from the vehicle---as said if just replacing the upholstered bits (foam, covers) the base doesn't have to be removed from the van. The pre-tensioner will still need to be disconnected as it's attached to the seat frame.

Besides the upholstered seat frame is a helluva lot lighter when its NOT attached to the seat base.

 

If you haven't already done this, one other thing I found is that the sprayed on body undercoating is done after the seat brackets are installed (at least on my van)... thus gumming up the removal of the bolts. And that's some tough stuff!

It helped immensely to remove the bolts using the same method as using a tap or die... unscrew the bolt a turn or less, then tighten a fraction of a turn, then another turn looser, and back... and so on and so forth. Basically just working it back and forth until you feel it get to a point where it is easy to turn.

 

The problem with the front bolts is the heads are relatively soft--since nearly every T-55 PLUS bit I've seen is 3/8" drive I use a 1/2" > 3/8" adapter so I can use my 18" long ratchet---it gives me a better feel how the bolt is backing out. If the removal bit isn't perfectly aligned and square they'll cam out---never had to replace on but a few have minor buggered up bit openings. You did the right thing by proceeding slowly and deliberately.

When re-installing the front Torx PLUS bolts use a bit of anti-seize on the threads. If you ever want to remove the seat base again you'll be glad you did. I've love to know how your replacement foam and covers are after installation.

 

Thank you, that's great advice. I thought about antiseize but was thinking that might encourage them to back out over time. But it sounds like in your experience it hasn't been a problem, so I'll give it a try. I used it on spark plugs for years without problems, and I bet there is a torque value to be used when tightening the bolts. And yes, had planned on a breaker bar all along.

I'll report back on the seat foam and cover replacement.

Thanks!

Ben

 

Man, that's a great suggestion, thank you!

 

Just as a point of curiosity- The Seat Shop recommends that you remove the whole seat to replace the bottom seat cushion. Has anyone else here done it with the seat in the van, just removing the bottom cushion?

Thanks, everyone.

Ben

 

I have one seat in my 2003 where the front flap of the seat bottom comes loose from time-to-time---the plastic clip doesn't seem to hold onto the seat frame in that area. I repeated tried reattaching it while the seat was in the van but could never get the right angle or amount of pull required to get everything fitting correctly.

The Seat Shop does this sort of thing all day long---heeding their advice is wise IMHO. Removing the seat frame from the base isn't that difficult and makes all this much easier. YMMV but I think you'll agree after doing one.

 

JWA, I'm heeding your advice, thank you. Now, if I can only remember to disconnect the battery.....

 

IF the SRS triggers you'll never again "forget" to disconnect the battery while working on that system.

Unexpected air bag deployment can be very, very serious---remember the Takata air bag recall? Remember the personal injuries some sustained? Before you begin tape a message on the steering wheel or the seat itself, give the disconnected system about 15 minutes before uplugging anything---the SRS modules store some electrical charge that needs to dissipate first.

BE CAREFUL!