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1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

2000 E350 Seat Bolts

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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 06:32 AM
  #16  
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Just getting around to doing this, battery disconnected, I can loosen the front T50's, the back bolts are deep dish 18mm? Is this a bolt on a stud? It looks like it.

Thanks so much!

Ben
 
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 07:03 AM
  #17  
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The back are studs and nuts. Not sure of the size but definitely metric. The front are actually "Torx Plus" not standard Torx.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 07:24 AM
  #18  
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yes, on the Torx Plus, my bad. That's what I have, I've worked them loose with the help of some PB. I'll get a deep 18mm and finish the job.

thanks!
 
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 04:53 AM
  #19  
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The rear bolts are just studs pressed into the floor pan---I use an 18mm deep well socket to start them coming off, switch to a standard length socket as the nut rises which can trap the deep well socket against the seat base. I find accessing the rear nuts from under the base easiest, you could also use a ratcheting box wrench but a 1/2" ratchet gives more leverage. If the nuts have never been removed they'll be a bit stubborn first time off.

HTH
 
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 08:36 AM
  #20  
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Again, thank you, this is most helpful. I have the correct socket now. So, when you say "I find accessing the rear nuts from under the base easiest" are you still talking about the rear studs for the front driver's seat? So sorry to be dense.

Thanks again,

ben
 
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 09:07 AM
  #21  
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Also, relevant to this thread, I sprayed PB Blaster on all 4 studs under the van for the driver's seat. the rear studs are close to the AC lines that run to the back. Will PB hurt those lines?

Thanks,

ben
 
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Old Jun 17, 2020 | 05:00 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bengineer
Again, thank you, this is most helpful. I have the correct socket now. So, when you say "I find accessing the rear nuts from under the base easiest" are you still talking about the rear studs for the front driver's seat? So sorry to be dense.
Yes---studs where nuts are used, not the Torx-headed bolts in the front of the seat base.

Originally Posted by bengineer
Also, relevant to this thread, I sprayed PB Blaster on all 4 studs under the van for the driver's seat. the rear studs are close to the AC lines that run to the back. Will PB hurt those lines?
No but wipe the lines clean to not attract dust and other crap anything petroleum based products left behind can do.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2020 | 09:16 AM
  #23  
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JWA, thank you!

Ben
 
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Old Jun 21, 2020 | 06:29 PM
  #24  
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Sorry I am late to the thread, I always find it easier to remove the seat tracks from the seat when installing factory covers and usually when installing aftermarket and slip on covers too. although it does require removing the seat and tracks if you ever want to clean the cover, I think it greatly improves the fit and look. Sometimes with factory covers or if you are only doing the cushion foam removing the tracks is necessary anyway. Watch out for the sprung tracks if you are moving them forward or back out of the van to get at the bolts that hold the track to the bottom of the seat.

Related to this operation is the backrest and its connection to the seat cushion frame, often the bolts attaching it will pass through the cushion cover. Although on our vans I believe most years the backrest hardware is covered by the cushion cover and not running through it ,many E-series have aftermarket builds, seats and bases.

The armrest is another interesting area which requires a torx bit to remove and removing it will greatly help fit the backrest cover while keeping the armrest functionality, here you definitely need to cut the new backrest cover (not the armrest cover) to allow the hardware and limiter to pass through. Factory backrest covers might have the cutout already made: anyone ever purchased a replacement Ford backrest cover?

Also for others who might read; you can generally get at the nuts that hold the seat tracks to the seat base on these vans with a medium socket from underneath and then you are only removing the seat with tracks attached from the van and the base stays put.
 

Last edited by dziwei; Jun 22, 2020 at 11:43 AM. Reason: clarity
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 04:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by dziwei
The armrest is another interesting area which requires a torx bit to remove and removing it will greatly help fit the backrest cover while keeping the armrest functionality, here you definitely need to cut the cover to allow the hardware and limiter to pass through.
.
I've never had to cut any bit of upholstery to remove the arm rests---the pivoting end has a velco closure which when unfastened pulls away to expose the Torx fastener. Once the arm rest is out of the way removing the back covering would be possible.
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 08:11 AM
  #26  
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Thanks for your reply, I followed recommendations from the Seat Shop in addition to the proper tool (recommended by this forum), and had the set out no problem. My van is very basic, so it could be vans with electric seats could benefit from your advice. I don't even have an arm rest!
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 08:12 AM
  #27  
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JWA, your advice on this operation came in really handy. A little PB Blaster helped, too. New seat foam and cover is looking good.

Thanks again!

Ben
 
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Old Jun 22, 2020 | 11:59 AM
  #28  
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Edited my previous post since there was some confusion as to the armrest/backrest operation, I only included it because if you are ever faced with that situation (having to cut a hole in a new backrest cover) it can be daunting and counter-intuitive; no holes to get the armrest back on! as the OP found they make seats without armrests so no surprise you can find covers with no holes to pass that hardware through.



 
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