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I picked this thing up for free and this is my first journey away from building Japanese 4 bangers. It's an 83 ford f250 with a 460. There is no power to anything even with a good battery. The box that looks like a relay or regulator has 3 wires coming out it that are all cut so I need to know what it is and where they go and where that wire from the coil goes. Any help would be amazing. I'm trying to throw a new block in this "the old one is cracked" so I can use this as my beat nasty tow/woods truck but I just want to get it to turn over as a sanity check before I go grab an engine and start the build. Thank you an advance for any assistance
Welcome to FTE.
I don't know what that box thing is? Can you take a picture of it a little farther away so we can see where it is bolted to.
Also take a picture of the starter solenoid and wires connected to it, back far enough so we can see where the wire may go.
That wire & plug in your hand where does the other end go to and what is the color of the wire?
If you are not getting power into the cab either the wires on the solenoid are not hooked up right and why the picture or the fuse links hooked to it could be bad.
Dave ----
Best advice I can give is get a chilton, it's a pos but it does have wiring diagrams in it.
If you do hae a voltage regulator it would most likely be on the passenger fender side.
In the area of the solenoid. That might be a good place to test as well. I'm not sure what that is, Something for the speed control?
I don't think it is important in getting the truck to run but I might be wrong.
Welcome to FTE.
I don't know what that box thing is? Can you take a picture of it a little farther away so we can see where it is bolted to.
Also take a picture of the starter solenoid and wires connected to it, back far enough so we can see where the wire may go.
That wire & plug in your hand where does the other end go to and what is the color of the wire?
If you are not getting power into the cab either the wires on the solenoid are not hooked up right and why the picture or the fuse links hooked to it could be bad.
Dave ----
No idea where the other end of that wire off of the coil is.
You looked on both sides and the bottom and there's no ID number?
You have to look close because sometimes Ford used a rubber stamp.
Upper pic in post #4: The electronic alternator regular (E2PZ-10316-A) is located below the starter solenoid. Genuine Ford is stamped diagonally MOTORCRAFT
You looked on both sides and the bottom and there's no ID number?
You have to look close because sometimes Ford used a rubber stamp.
Upper pic in post #4: The electronic alternator regular (E2PZ-10316-A) is located below the starter solenoid. Genuine Ford is stamped diagonally MOTORCRAFT
See that yellow wire that has the yellow crimp going to the large post on the solenoid on the left side? I see there may be another small wire there with loom over it? That yellow wire that heads over in the direction of the heater fan motor is one of the important ones. It feeds power to the ignition switch and the fuse box. Is that a large black wire on the left post going to the + of the battery?(you have your finger on it).
See that yellow wire that has the yellow crimp going to the large post on the solenoid on the left side? I see there may be another small wire there with loom over it? That yellow wire that heads over in the direction of the heater fan motor is one of the important ones. It feeds power to the ignition switch and the fuse box. Is that a large black wire on the left post going to the + of the battery?(you have your finger on it).
Awesome thank you, so yellow wire need to power ignition and fuse box perfect. And yes the big black one is the positive.
That yellow wire that heads over in the direction of the heater fan motor is one of the important ones. It feeds power to the ignition switch and the fuse box.
It looks like that wire has previously been repaired. Note the barrel crimp about 2 inches from the starter relay. That wire is really a fusible link, isn't it? If so, and it has been repaired, that means it was probably overloaded at some point and the link opened up as designed. No idea who did the repair, but there's a good chance the same overload condition may still be present. Carefully wiggle the length of that yellow wire and look for any spots where the insulation flexes too much, indicating the conductor inside is not intact.
Yes, that is probably why the barrel crimp is on there, they cut the fusible link out. I am going to try this, this is not a 1983 but a 1985 diagram. But much of it will be the same as your 1983. This will show you the yellow wire I was talking about.
Look at the very top of this diagram, you will see the yellow wire. They actually show two normal ones, all the other wires with the dotted line are options you may or may not have. But all of them hook to the stud going to the battery +
09-02-2019, 02:36 PM
