When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's my issue. I few days ago I was driving my daily driver (1978 Ford F-150 Lariat 351 modified). I was driving into a gas station, when the motor stalled. There was a small lurch. I then restarted it and continued to park. As I was leaving the lot, it stalled again. Went to work after that stall, then to a function after work, no problems. Next day, went to work, stalled again 1/2 mile from home, took 20 minutes to get it started to drive back home. Made it back to my street, then stalled again. Never started again. Got it home with a push from the sons car. That was 2 days ago, turns over, but won't start. It turned over and started for a sec yesterday. After that, it turns over but doesn't start.
I immediately thought of the ignition coil. Replaced it, same result. I'm thinking of replacing the ignition box on the right side of the engine bay. Any other ideas? The engine turns over fine, it just won't start. Any ideas would be appreciated, as iit was working perfectly up until a few days ago, then this...it seems like an easy fix, I'm not sure...
Definitely could be the ignition module acting up. Mine went dead once with no prior symptoms at all. I went to run an errand, parked the truck, and when I went to start it, no go. Just turned over without starting. Walked down the street to the NAPA, bought a new one, and after I installed it the truck fired right up. That module lasted less than a week, so I exchanged it for a new one. It's been in the truck for 15 years with no problems. I pulled a spare at the Pull and Pay that I carry in the truck always now. The ones that you can buy from the parts stores are generally junk, so it's a better bet to go OEM.
Mark.
The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts within an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.
Taking the module to auto parts stores to be tested: Will test OK unless the little charmer has burned out.
Module located on the left fender inner apron. Engine heat, especially when radiating from the V8's red hot exhaust manifold, is the mortal enemy of these modules.
When replacing, use some washers to space the module further away from the apron. The more airflow, the better.
The modules used in the 1970's were such turds, that Ford techs referred to DuraSpark as NEVER-Spark!
The 3 step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:
1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts almost at once.
2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine restarts within an hour...or so.
3) Sooner or later, usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not restart.
Taking the module to auto parts stores to be tested: Will test OK unless the little charmer has burned out.
Module located on the left fender inner apron. Engine heat, especially when radiating from the V8's red hot exhaust manifold, is the mortal enemy of these modules.
When replacing, use some washers to space the module further away from the apron. The more airflow, the better.
The modules used in the 1970's were such turds, that Ford techs referred to DuraSpark as NEVER/Spark!
I know you've posted it before but can you post which colors go for which years?
I can never remember which colors the 1974 only and 1975 only modules are. One is green, the other is black. Rich (77&79F250) knows, ask him.
Blue module introduced in 1976, red module in 1977 (CA only), brown in 1978 (hi-altitude), was replaced by the yellow module introduced in 1979.
The blue module is the most popular, was used in myriad FoMoCo vehicle into the 1990's.
Ah I couldn't remember which one of you had that info saved in a quick place. I'll see if it has it on hand. (I have a 74 so that's the one I need lol)
A quick update....I put in the new module. Still the same issue - no start but turns over fine. So, I went back and check my connections. As I was checking the coil connector, the green wire broke off. I ordered a new part. I also started a new thread about this problem - turns out I should have posted it here. Anyway, some one said that I could "unpin" the wires from the connector. How is that done, as it seems the connector is all one piece? If I could do that, I could restrip the wire and connect it.
What Rich said. But with more access in a Ford coil connector than most to get that little tool, or a very small screwdriver or poker-thingy inserted.
Basically it's just a flat tab on one side (top I think) of the flat connector.
Hopefully I'm not sending you down the wrong path, but if I remember the steps would be like this:
1. Remove horseshoe connector from coil (slides off with a good pull).
2. Push the wire inward slightly (as if back towards the coil end) to pull the locking tab away from it's notch.
3. Insert tool from front opening (with these, you should be able to peek in and actually see the tab you'll be pressing on).
4. With pressure on the locking tab to flatten it down, at the same time pull on the wire so that the now-released tab can pull out.
Takes a bit of finesse sometimes, as you push the tool inward it tends to tension the connector in the housing. You can slowly release tension on the tool as you pull rearward on the wire and it will come out.
In theory...
If there is no wire left to grab, you can reach in with a small pair of needle nose pliers to do the pulling and yanking and fiddling.
