1980 F350 4x4 w/ 400. mods are old sp2p edelbrock intake and new 1405 carb.. all else stock I think.... anyhow, I recently drove around 300 miles and used about 3 quarts of oil.... on another trip the ratio (mpq) was about the same.... since I stop every so often to check the level, I notice sometimes the level changes very slightly and sometimes like the drain plug is gone.... running with the valve cover breather off helps.... last long trip I noticed in the dark, with headlights behind me, when I got on it the smoke really rolled and also severe valve clacking.. this made me think valve train needed attention.... I recently acquired a set of rebuilt stock heads that I'm pondering just slapping on.... after reading posts on similar oil loss conditions, and bad rings, I now think the entire motor warrants a good look or rebuild...... one condition not similar to ring realted problems is there is no oil coming out the breather or dip stick tube at all and air cleaner is clean (when running with it connected), just out the exhaust and leaks around the dist. (o-ring?)..... if I'm gonna spend some time with her, I want to make it worthwhile..... while I think I answered my own question, what do you all think......

one last odd thing was after dropping a washer down my old carb and taking the intake off to get it out.... the turkey pan was flipped around and blocking off the air ports on the front upper corner of the heads..... I turned it around when I reinstalled so the openings were not restricted.. the recent heads I got have the air ports plugged up... this is a non-catalyst motor per the sticker.....does that mean no egr valve come on it stock..... I'm still trying to put together this relationship regarding air flow.....

sorry for the long post, just wanted to get out all the facts....

 

Please check replies to your post in the '80-'86 forum:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=159296

Although it seems like your query would get wider exposure and thus more points of view, cross-posting (posting the same thread in more than one forum) also results in diluting the response by separating the responses from different forums.

 

sorry bubba, just figured what you said..... the whole issue is diluting my patience...... point taken

 

When you talk about the "turkey pan" I assume you mean the integral manifold gasket/oil deflector. Every one I have ever seen has had "FRONT" clearly stamped into it.

Now, when you say it was backwards, do you mean that someone had put FRONT to the back, or that you saw passages blocked up that you thought should be open?

There is usually a cause and effect relationship. I turned around the turkey pan, now the engine drinks oil.

I'm still trying to figure out how this would cause the engine to use oil, but you said no blowby, and not much in the way of leaks, so this has to be where you start.

Believe me, if the turkey pan was installed correct with FRONT facing forwards, those passages you mentioned are SUPPOSED to be blocked off.

 

The pan is designed to be used only once. If it doesn't seal the intake passages will suck oil passed it.

 

Also, the "valve clatter" you're hearing is probably preignition or spark knock. EGR on a non-cat system will help that, or rework the timing advance curve to compensate. The problem is when you get the spark knock, it puts excessive strain on the pistons and they have a hard time keeping the cylinders sealed, hence the oil consumption.

 

I installed a new turkey pan (integral manifold gasket/oil deflector) when I put it back together and the front stamp was backward on the one I took off...... although, I do have to wonder now if I got her sealed good enough..... would an intake leak contribute to the oil loss symptoms?..... not trusting myself, I did try the spray around the manifold trick to hear any increase in idle and got nothing.... the point mentioned about leaks under the turkey pan got me thinking.... the spray trick probably wouldn't detect a leak from inside...... after reading about the old EB sp2p not being much better than stock, I was planning on a new EB400 or weiand intake anyways...... probably worth doing, at least it would give me a second chance and I wouldn't be out anything in the end (other than gaskets)

one thing I still haven't done is check the timing..... thanks for the tips guys

 

Usually if the pan leaks oil into the intake you cannot tell from the outside of the engine.

 

Oil splatters on the bottom of the deflector, is vaporized, and is sucked into the cylinders where the gasket leaks.

You'd be getting a lot of blue smoke if this is happening.

I know this is not recommended, but I used mine over again. I sealed it on both sides with RTV copper. No problems yet.

 

I ran across a site describing problems in late 90's Dodge vehicles having a problem with intake gasket sealing... the symptoms were exactly what I am experiencing....... excessive oil loss and spark knock on acceleration...... I think I might have my answer... I will report back with results after I convince the wife I need to spend time with the truck rather than her on the weekend..... if only she could discover the true thrill in handing me tools...... woo hoo