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Hi everyone, new to the forum! I have a 2015 F-250 Stroke I bought used. I went to change the rail fuel filter using the 32mm socket as recommended and cranked the daylights out of it and it would not move. I then used my 20v drill driver still no luck. I even resorted to using my 1/2" air impact and nothing! Any suggestions on how to get this bugger off. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
I had the same problem with my 2012 last year. Previous years were done by Ford dealer by previous owner. Either way, I couldn't get mine off. I ended up buying one of those vise grip chain wrenches to wrap around the body. However, it did damage the plastic housing. I had all ready purchased a spare just in case as a lot of people recommend this because of this. I then lubricated the threads with engine oil hoping it will come off easier next time. Good luck.
The o-ring is the main item to lubricate with clean engine oil more so than the cup/body threads. One should lubricate the yellow drain plug o-rings with clean oil also.
Im surprised it didnt crack the body with as much torque as it sounds you put on it. I would do what was said above. Strap wrench. But I wouldnt do a thing until I ordered another fuel filter body. Fairly cheap and nice to have a spare. I change both filters every 8-10k miles. I think ford says 20k or something but one thing I wont chance with this truck is the fuel filters.
The o-ring is the main item to lubricate with clean engine oil more so than the cup/body threads. One should lubricate the yellow drain plug o-rings with clean oil also.
I keep a file on the memo app on my phone for maintenance stuff/tips for our trucks. I remember seeing somewhere that Ford techs recommend fresh oil on both the o ring and the housing threads.
I change them every other oil change. I follow the OLM.
Last edited by Overkill2; Aug 26, 2019 at 08:51 AM.
Reason: add to post
Larry posted the part numbers in the 99 - 16 forum, in case someone needs the part numbers:
Originally Posted by Just Strokin
There are two fuel filter cups Either will work I do believe.
fuel filter cup
FC4Z-9G270-A BC3Z-9G270-D
After thinking about this you may want to order 2 bowls, 1 to replace the one that's on the truck and another to have kicking around in case it happens again.
I carry a spare housing with filter installed along with the WIF and yellow drain plug installed along with the o-ring and engine mounted filter in mt "bait box" tool box.
I carry a spare housing with filter installed along with the WIF and yellow drain plug installed along with the o-ring and engine mounted filter in mt "bait box" tool box.
Right on, Larry. That's EXACTLY what I plan doing. As a matter of fact, I probably got the idea from you, tough guy.
That's crazy a 1/2" pneumatic impact did nothing. The torque mine has it would have busted the center section out of the filter housing.
Previous owner used super glue instead of engine oil to lube the O-ring.
A side note - constant steady pressure is necessary until the O-ring clears the housing. I use a 1/2" ratchet that fairly long and it does take some force to move it.
Yeah that seems crazy an airgun wouldn't break the plastic housing. I remember reading some guys would use both a strap wrench and a ratchet and socket on bottom at the same time.
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