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I had previously made a post about having suspected a battery issue with my truck. (Almost dead batteries during cranking, bought new batteries nothing changed). I went and checked the starter solenoid, all good. Took readings from batteries, all good. Cranked on it until it was almost not cranking anymore, that same second after I let off the key I checked the batteries again, no different so I dont see how it's the batteries if it's not drawing them dead when it sounds like they're dead. I checked the grounds on the block they're fine. My BIL who's a Ford tech keeps telling me it's a bad starter. I did the old whack the starter to bump it and nothing changed. I dont want to load the parts cannon and immediately start with a new highly priced starter and nothing changes, but I'm curious now if that is the problem. Any input?
Last edited by aqnhfd; Aug 25, 2019 at 04:58 PM.
Reason: Forgot something
Sounds like a weak starter. If you can find someone with a clamp ampmeter you can check amp draw. Should be at or under 200 amps during crank.
You could also have high resistance due to poor connections or corrosion.
Are both batteries charging/draining the same?
Sounds like a weak starter. If you can find someone with a clamp ampmeter you can check amp draw. Should be at or under 200 amps during crank.
You could also have high resistance due to poor connections or corrosion.
Are both batteries charging/draining the same?
Yeah both batteries are staying at the same level everytime I've checked and I did 12 times yesterday screwing around. Where can I get the amp draw reading from on the starter? The positive connection wire? Sorry, I suck at electrical, great with everything else lol
You have new batteries, so I'm guessing you eyeballed the wires/connectors and they are good. By your description you have a solid charging and battery system. You're prolly right on that.
Had same problem bought 2 new batteries and it was the starter. Installed new Denso starter and it spins over sooo fast now. Was starting to turn over real slow and then wouldn't quit cranking on its own had to pull battery cables off and that finished off I guess?
call your favorite shop and ask them if they can test a starter amp draw in the vehicle.
You need an 'amp clamp' adapter for a multimeter or some other way of measuring current. We have an old VAT-40 that works awesome for measuring current.
Even a cheap 'amp clamp' and a decent enough multimeter to use it would cost about the same as a starter.
I'd measure resistance between all the connections, batt pos to batt pos, batt pos to starter relay, relay to starter, batt neg to frame, batt neg to starter housing
If those all come back .5 ohms or less, not much left besides the starter.
I had a battery issue that ended up being a starter going bad that was killing the batteries. Someone had said "maybe it's a bad starter?" early on in my troubleshooting. I couldn't figure out how that could be so I discounted that possibility and continued troubleshooting/replacing things. When I ran out of other plausible causes I reluctantly looked at the starter. It was the original starter but still working. Rather than have it tested I replaced it (I think around 200K miles, which was a good service life) and it solved my issue.
As Sherlock Holmes said: when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.