When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well all I can say is try it the next time you install a crank I just did a Yblock last week and the pan is already on so I can't show you. The cap can actually be move fore and aft a few thousands, I usually tighten the bolts to about 10 lb before moving it and then check the clearance after torquing it. The whole purpose is to insure both thrust surfaces of both bearings are in alignment & flush with the thrust surface of the crank. Lets say if you end up with the cap being .002 forward then when the crank moves forward from pressure on the clutch or converter it would only be riding on the surface of the bearing in the block, and when the crank moves back it will be riding on the cap bearing surface. This condition would also create less end play.
If you do a simple Google search on the subject there will be articles and videos of other engine builders doing it.
Well all I can say is try it the next time you install a crank I just did a Yblock last week and the pan is already on so I can't show you. The cap can actually be move fore and aft a few thousands, I usually tighten the bolts to about 10 lb before moving it and then check the clearance after torquing it. The whole purpose is to insure both thrust surfaces of both bearings are in alignment & flush with the thrust surface of the crank. Lets say if you end up with the cap being .002 forward then when the crank moves forward from pressure on the clutch or converter it would only be riding on the surface of the bearing in the block, and when the crank moves back it will be riding on the cap bearing surface. This condition would also create less end play.
If you do a simple Google search on the subject there will be articles and videos of other engine builders doing it.
Now, run it a few thousand miles with a manual transmission, then take it apart and measure that again. I'll bet it will be shoved forward again, If it's riding on the shell in the block saddle, that's really all that's needed to limit forward movement. It's not riding there constantly with a manual transmission. So trying to set the cap's position is really a wasted operation. Unless you take it apart later and check, you have no way of knowing if it stays put.
Now, run it a few thousand miles with a manual transmission, then take it apart and measure that again. I'll bet it will be shoved forward again, If it's riding on the shell in the block saddle, that's really all that's needed to limit forward movement. It's not riding there constantly with a manual transmission. So trying to set the cap's position is really a wasted operation. Unless you take it apart later and check, you have no way of knowing if it stays put.
I have taken a few apart after some good mileage over the years and the caps don't move. Imagine how much pressure you would be putting on the bearing to move the cap, that wouldn't be good. All I'm saying is if both cap and block bearings aren't aligned flush you are either putting all the pressure on either one or the other, Why not insure the pressure is equal all 360 degrees around? There is a reason so many mechanics do this to set the end play. If you have good luck just bolting it down good for you. The last two repairs I did for people didn't have such good luck, they were both Windsor 289/302 that were bought through auto parts stores and I've toured the shop that supplies them and I know why it happens.
I have taken a few apart after some good mileage over the years and the caps don't move. Imagine how much pressure you would be putting on the bearing to move the cap, that wouldn't be good. All I'm saying is if both cap and block bearings aren't aligned flush you are either putting all the pressure on either one or the other, Why not insure the pressure is equal all 360 degrees around? There is a reason so many mechanics do this to set the end play. If you have good luck just bolting it down good for you. The last two repairs I did for people didn't have such good luck, they were both Windsor 289/302 that were bought through auto parts stores and I've toured the shop that supplies them and I know why it happens.
I've beat on a couple of those reman roller 5.0's with a Toploader 4 speed and the thrust bearing was never a problem. They had other issues besides the thrust bearing. The one reman that did have an issue with the thrust wasn't due to the bearing, but the excess pressure in the torque converter. Wore the bearing completely through. Also beat on a couple of 390's and two 427 builds with Toploaders and again, no problems with the thrust bearings
So I finally got around to installing the new bearings, I did polish the #2 main journal that I was questioning due to some bearing damage, everything else looked perfect. I will say that I went through and put everything together and went to check the end play and could hardly get .0015” out of it, so I loosened the thrust cap back up, worked the crank back and forth then pushed the crank towards the front to simulate clutch pressure and torqued it down, boom .0085” of end play, right on the money. Spun it over several times and pried it back and forth a lot and everything stayed put .0085” of end play still. So I guess there is some validity to the method above, thanks for the advice, I really enjoy learning new stuff. Now I just gotta hope the rear main does not leak!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
I just did a Yblock last week and the pan is already on so I can't show you. The cap can actually be move fore and aft a few thousands, I usually tighten the bolts to about 10 lb before moving it and then check the clearance after torquing it. The whole purpose is to insure both thrust surfaces of both bearings are in alignment & flush with the thrust surface of the crank. Lets say if you end up with the cap being .002 forward then when the crank moves forward from pressure on the clutch or converter it would only be riding on the surface of the bearing in the block, and when the crank moves back it will be riding on the cap bearing surface. This condition would also create less end play.
