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Hello all!
First time poster, long time reader...
Just purchased a very used 2001 f250 super duty with the v10 and 370,000 miles behind it....no, that isn't a typo...
The PO stated that the engine was "gone through" at 310,000, but I dont really know what "gone through" entails. It does run excellent for 370k though, and the price of nearly free was unbeatable..
Anyway, i can't seem to get the coolant gauge working no matter what I do. I replaced the CHT sender and ohmed it out and it ohms fine. I jumped the harness connector, every way possible and the gauge still doesnt move. It feels like the engine is getting too hot, but I'm used to diesels, so it could just be me. What do I need to look for next? New instrument cluster?
.... Anyway, i can't seem to get the coolant gauge working no matter what I do. I replaced the CHT sender and ohmed it out and it ohms fine. I jumped the harness connector, every way possible and the gauge still doesnt move. It feels like the engine is getting too hot, but I'm used to diesels, so it could just be me. What do I need to look for next? New instrument cluster? ....
You could add a separate temp display for the engine coolant.
I added one of these for trans fluid temp, but it would work for engine coolant.
Koso BA024B11
Use an IR thermometer aimed at the thermostat or top of the radiator--that would show the approximate coolant temperature.
I've had individual cluster gauges fail---could be nothing more than that. Only real way to test that is exchange the entire cluster. You could find one on eBay or through a local scrap yard, also LKQ online would be a good source too.
If that proves to be the problem I'd then suggest having the original cluster sent out for repair/rehab--if this one is running well its not a bad investment AND you can keep all that mileage showing on the odometer---point of pride I'm thinking?
That and an Android phone or tablet with Bluetooth, and you can see what the computer thinks the coolant temp is. It would be better to actually check that before you plumb up an aftermarket temp gauge.
That and an Android phone or tablet with Bluetooth, and you can see what the computer thinks the coolant temp is. It would be better to actually check that before you plumb up an aftermarket temp gauge.
Thanis everyone for all the replies!!! This was my next step.. I have a buddy that has one I can borrow at least to make sure the engine temp isnt getting hot.
Does the temp sender run anything in the computer like it does in the 7.3 diesels?
It smells sweet, but there is a small leak in the plastic on the top of the radiator, so that's where that's coming from. Other than that, it runs awesome for 370K!
I'll update when I get a chance to run the scanner.
I have a Scangauge II for my truck and a I use the Torque app pro for my other vehicles. The gauges in the trucks won't let you know whats going on until it is time to shut the engine down. The only gauge I really watch in the truck is the fuel gauge, but then I really do not have to worry about it as the truck develops a pull in the front end when approaching a fuel station. #gasaholic
Yep, I'll second the OBD bluetooth adapter and torque app (or something similar). When I'm hauling our camper in the summertime, I always have torque app running on my phone. And engine coolant temperature is one of the primary parameters I monitor - especially when pulling 5+ percent grades at 4k RPM with outside ambient temps in the triple digits. Knowing precisely what's going on under the hood is key.
Hooked up my buddy's bluetooth obd scanner and the temp read perfectly right around 185ish! Also realized the rpm gauge is showing about 500rpm too high...I just thought the idle was set high for some reason. Now to fix the A/c!
Cool (pun intended!)... I have to wonder if the tach being inaccurate, and the temp gauge not working are related somehow. Is there evidence of any water damage to the headliner, or fuse box?
Cool (pun intended!)... I have to wonder if the tach being inaccurate, and the temp gauge not working are related somehow. Is there evidence of any water damage to the headliner, or fuse box?
Theres a jumble of wiring next to the fuse box that has been seriously molested by the PO that I suspect has something to do with the gauges not working right. Sorting that out is the next step in the instrument cluster saga.
Just realized I never finished up this thread.
The temp gauge in the cluster is the only thing I can find that isn't working properly......along with half the other gauges on the cluster. Since this thread I've bought a bluetooth OBD reader I can connect my phone with and it was a very inexpensive fix for a fairly expensive problem. Thanks for all the help guys!