P2195 & P0171
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
P2195 & P0171
Every couple days I am getting a P2195 and even less commonly a P0171 code. I have been chasing it for two weeks now and have tried several things. I have replaced both bank 1 O2 sensors, the O2 sensor’s pigtail connectors, the MAF, and I have tested the resistance of all eight of my fuel injectors. The results I got from that resistance test were all within 0.1 ohms of each other. Each injector was between 13.3 and 13.4 ohms. With no outliers there I’m pretty sure my injectors aren’t the problem. The new MAF actually improved my over all engine performance a little but didn’t eliminate my P2195 and P0171. The new upstream bank 1 O2 sensor and its re-wiring made no difference. With each time my engine light comes on I check my live and freeze frame PIDS. As of the last time or two in the freeze frame data I am seeing the bank 1 fuel trims a little out of wack (over 20% on LT and ST) however bank two is perfect (+ or - 5). My freeze frame data is reading my fuel rail pressure at 39.9, my IAT at 85 - 100 degrees F. depending on the weather, and that the fault is happening in CL or closed loop. Most the time is just says it’s a close loop fault, but one time it told me it was a CL-FUELSYS1. My new MAF and new O2 sensors seem to be operating in the correct voltage ranges. Anyways, my next plans are to check the voltage and resistance of my fuel pressure regulator (assuming it has an electrical plug) as well as my bank 1 ignition coils. I might even go as far as to pull the plugs and see how they look. I have also tested for vacuum leaks with a water test and a smoke test. I am 90% sure that vacuum leaks aren’t my problem especially since the lean code is not pulling on both banks. Also my buddy that I bought this truck from replaced the the engine 18,000 miles ago. When he did that, him and I both replace all the major gaskets on the new motor before dropping it into the truck. We replaced the intake gasket, exhaust manifold gaskets, oil pan gasket, and the head gaskets. I have checked all the vacuum hoses I can think of and they’re all in good shape. The fuel separator hose coming out of the purge valve is getting a little corroded but there are no holes of cracks in it. Let me know of any ideas or if I’m forgetting something, this is getting frustrating at this point.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 39
Likes: 2
I should also say my problems and symptoms are not consistent at all. The truck runs perfect until right before it throws the code. I’ll be driving along with no issues, and like i said it only happens every couple days, then the engine shakes a bit almost vibrates, stops, vibrates again, stops, maybe goes one more time and then it throws the engine light. After the light turns on the truck just runs rough with shakes and vibrations erratically. Like I said when I reset the code the truck runs perfect until right before the stupid light comes on again a day or two or three later.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,319
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From: 0,0,1
That is so aggravating when new parts are bad right out of the box.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
And probably like most of us that'd the last thing we'd think was still causing the DTC's.
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scrappa1223
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
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Jan 24, 2008 10:48 AM
