Ok,

So I got a 79 F-150 302 w/ c6. I had a mechanical oil pressure gauge which I have complained about on here more often then not. And today I finally got rid of it. Now, I put in this stock dummy light sensor from canadian tire for 3$. Now, I want to know if that needs to be screwed in all the way...sounds dumb but basically the threads were about 2.5x as long as the ones on the mechanical adapter piece that I took out, so when I started screwing it in I got it in to about the same place as the old one by hand...then I used pliers and got it in another turn but its still just shy of sticking out half way.

Is this ok? The other one was leaking a fair bit of oil, I drove it around for about 10mins (maybe longer maybe less dunno didn't have a clock with me But I do know that I did some stop and go driving and I got it warmed up because I was adjusting the carb at the same time and wanted to see if it would stall

Anyway, is this ok? Or should I reef on it and get it in tighter? I figured it would be bad to get it seized in there and never be able to get it out of the block but at the same time I dont want to loose all my oil and only realize it cuz its ticking heh.

Anyway just make me feel better and tell me its ok or freak out and tell me to go outside now in the middle of the knight with some vice grips and tighten it


ps. the new sensor didn't have any nut piece to use a socket/wrench on so I was assuming it was meant to go in hand tight...just wanted to confirm.


Chado.


(pps. sorry my posts are so long)

 

If it's not leaking there's no need to tighten it any more

 

Pipe threads are tapered and designed not to be threaded all the way. No leaks? No worries.

 

On all threaded fittings what I do is this: I thread the part in hand tight. I then mark it right where it is sticking out. I take it back out and put RTV sealant on the threads. I put the threads right up against the tube opening so the opening is centered on the mark. I go around it puting on just enough so that the threads are filled, but there is no extra above the threads. I then install it and let it cure. Never a leak.

 

Thanks guys I feel much better now.


neverenough: I would go to the trouble but...this engine has more leaks then you can image, I think it would be easier to count the places that dont leak oil. Burns no oil just leaks. Fools put it together 35,000KM's ago.

But for now I'll just leave it.


Chado

 

One leak at a time, Chado. Start with the most important and go from there. Anything can be fixed

 

Chado, when I bought my truck, the only engine leak was a tiny one coming from one of the valve covers.

Unfortunately, the rest of the driveline was a nasty, oily mess. I felt pretty discouraged at first because EVERYTHING leaked. Not only that, everything was coated with at least 1/2" of gunk, some placed more than that. I spent many hours doing nothing but grunt work cleaning. The leaks were so numerous that it was easier to just pull the tranny/t-case out and go through them than to try to work on them on my back. Even the rear axle needed seals.

Anyway, like grapegravy said, one leak at a time. I'm now a couple of days away from cranking it up again and the cleaned, painted (and hopefully NONLEAKING) driveline looks great all bolted back up. Made it well worth the effort.

 

Definitely good news, Chevdog,, let us know how it runs

 

Well see my other problem is the rust / rot.

At first I thought "Hey I am going to learn how to weld, spend 500$ on a mig and go from there" (I've asked on here for advise on different units etc

Well you see all the parts that are rotting/rusting are areas that I would think are considered "difficult"

On my old sunbird it was rusty doors, sure just sand it down cut away rust put in new stuff.

Well on my truck its the seams that are rusting the most in the bed (in other words my bed flaps around if the tailgates down)

The cab corners are going pretty badley and the drivers kick panel has rust crawling up it. Not to mention my doors are full of bondo.

Oh but my paint sure looks good since the PO did this "restoration" in 98.

Anyway, my biggest issue is always sitting there looking at it going "Dump another 1000-2000$ in it?" Or do I keep looking for another truck.

If space was no issue I'd keep a few and just swap parts as needed.

Unfortunatly at this time I can only have one parking spot ;/


So the battle goes on... and me crunching #'s trying to figure out the cheapest way to maintain a decent vehicle. I could just let the body go and not fix it but, my bed is pretty much useless atm because the supports holding the floor up are rotted and i sink it when i walk around it (and there are holes in the floor of bed) and the bed sides are unstable so I cant undo to the tailgate.

The cab corners as I said are shot and I have a few holes in the floor, so if i hack that together after this winter it will probably look considerably worse.

Anyway I can sit and wish that I had the money to buy a nice restored truck and drive it daily, or just pick what i want get it and restore it but fact is I cant.

So I'm all ears for what everyone thinks, so far its been just keep putting money in this as I can, it is on the road and driving. But things like unlimited oil leaks, my headers are starting a leak I think (DONT EVER BUY FLOWMASTER HEADERS) I've only had them a year...and they took over 8 hours to install....


Anyway I'm way off topic but this stuff really gets to me sometimes.

Chado

 

Chado, I've been there myself, don't worry too much. Always start with the most important items first and go from there. If you use your bed on a regular basis, look in junkyards for one that is even half decent, something to get you by until you can either buy a good one or fix the one you have,, or build one . The leaks are just that, leaks,, If you have to put a quart in every week for now, do it. Always do what you can with what you've got. The rust on the cab should be taken care of soon, it's only gonna get worse. Replacement panels for the kicker and the cab corners are relatively cheap. Get the rust out and primer it well. At another point worry about the paint. Cut the rust out of the floor and weld some stock steel plating in, not expensive either. Most important thing is to preserve what you do still have left. Well, that's the second most important thing, the First is Don't Get Discouraged!!

 

Words of wisdom :P

I appreciate it...thats what I have been doing so far, (hence the reason I spent 700$ on having the suspension done...and 700$ on the tires, well I would of bought the tires anyway...but I am pretending I have a 4x4 with my BF GOODRICH All Terrain K/O's heh)

Anyway,

The cab corners + kick panel are my concerns because I figure I could hack up the floor ...


What happened is when I got it there was small hole and I patched it to pass safety, now around that hole has spread a bit and its climbing up the kick panel I'd say 4". Now I was told the kickpanel (like right where the door closes...to the left of where my foot sits...under the ebrake (I hope I'm calling it the right thing when I say kickpanel) is crawling up wiht rust say 3" off the floor. I was told that panel is a main piece and you cant just cut it out and put some other piece of metal in, when I buy a kickpanel how much will it replace?

I dont use the bed a ton, but I do use it some (enough that I like having a pickup And my box sides are new and my tailgate is new (albeit a cheap non-ford piece but it is new) and so its a shame to not use it, but see thats the thing there is no rust on the box sides...just the seams which almost dont exist


Anyway I think I'll just keep working on what I have, then when I have the money I'll get whatever suits my fancy. (hopefully when I am done with school...in a million years)

Chado

 

I love those tires myself, lol. What you could do for the floor of the bed for a temporary fix is cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to fit. Then attach a few small braces to the side walls of the bed to keep them rigid. Also attach the plywood right through your bed surface, but use short screws (1") or you'll risk puncturing something. That will dispense the weight easily and last for awhile, might even want to poly it first. How big is this hole exactly? Is it on the interior of the cab or exterior? A million years comes sooner than you realize

 

Well ok 7 years of school if everything goes as I plan...but when your already in the system...been in the system, held a full time job while in the system...back to part time...etc; etc; it just gets frustrating, not to mention my friends that chose a trade as opposed to a business professional are going to be umm whatever you become when your apprencticeship is done next year

Ok, now as for attaching plywood to bed do I screw right into the side of the bed? I wanted a topper on my truck, found one a while back for free but I cant put it on this floppy bed lol.


Anyway, I can go outside with my digi cam and take pics of anything u need to see for clarification just tell me what u need to see.

Chado

 

Take an old sheet or something and lay it in your bed. Cut off all the excess leaving what will lie flat on the bottom. Use this template to make your plywood top. You screw that down right through the the existing bed ridges. If it's really bad in the bed, don't skimp on the screws. For bracing for the side, you could use some shelving supports or such. Something metal with at least one hole at each end and angled tabs. Then you simply screw one end into the floor and the other into the side of the bed. Again use short sheetmetal screws on the sides, so you don't come out the outer skin of the bed. Three on each side should do the trick, spaced evenly. Especially if you're putting a cap on the bed, that will add extra rigidity to the side walls. Attach the cap to the tops of the bedrails directly, don't just clamp it in place. And make sure you seal it first