Engine stall
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 708
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From: Pahrump, Nv.
I try to check on a cold engine or one that only has a short warm up or run time. So the engine isn't hot. I will spray carb cleaner at the intake side on the manifold / head to see if the RPM's raise the idle that way I know there is a leak. Same goes for the carb base plate and throttle plate if it sucks it through and idle raises there is a leak
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 713
I try to check on a cold engine or one that only has a short warm up or run time. So the engine isn't hot. I will spray carb cleaner at the intake side on the manifold / head to see if the RPM's raise the idle that way I know there is a leak. Same goes for the carb base plate and throttle plate if it sucks it through and idle raises there is a leak
That's what I did everywhere I could ('cept I used propane) but how do you get to the intake/head without taking off the valve covers on an FE?
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
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Update
So have been running truck with Ford carb for a couple weeks while I made time to rebuild the holley. Aside from the linkage and trans kickdown not lining up correctly has been running great. This morning got holley installed. Since I've not figured out what specifically was causing the stall, I rebuilt a different carb. with the only part reused from the original holley being the metering block. Well, sure as @&^%, same issues as before. Engine runs/idles nice, stalls as soon as put in gear. Could the metering block be causing this issue? Seems to me it could as it's the only constant. Will proceed to swap out metering block and see if issue persists.
So have been running truck with Ford carb for a couple weeks while I made time to rebuild the holley. Aside from the linkage and trans kickdown not lining up correctly has been running great. This morning got holley installed. Since I've not figured out what specifically was causing the stall, I rebuilt a different carb. with the only part reused from the original holley being the metering block. Well, sure as @&^%, same issues as before. Engine runs/idles nice, stalls as soon as put in gear. Could the metering block be causing this issue? Seems to me it could as it's the only constant. Will proceed to swap out metering block and see if issue persists.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,670
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Take the #s off the metering block and make sure you get the correct one. They are not all the same.
Question: when you say you rebuilt the carb, did you hot tank all the parts including the metering block? Did you use high pressureair with a small needle nose gun to blow out ALL the air passages and check to make sure air was coming out the other end of those holes.
Also make sure you got the correct metering gaskets on both sides of the block. There are some differences.
I've worked on a good many Holley carbs and found that most problems were the blocks being plugged from gunk (old dried up fuel ).
Have you tried running it with ALL vacuum lines plugged from the carb AND manifold ports?
Have you checked for manifold/carb mounting surfaces being true as well as mating surfaces of carb parts? Are you sure your getting a good fuel squirt?
Just throwing some ideas out there.
Question: when you say you rebuilt the carb, did you hot tank all the parts including the metering block? Did you use high pressureair with a small needle nose gun to blow out ALL the air passages and check to make sure air was coming out the other end of those holes.
Also make sure you got the correct metering gaskets on both sides of the block. There are some differences.
I've worked on a good many Holley carbs and found that most problems were the blocks being plugged from gunk (old dried up fuel ).
Have you tried running it with ALL vacuum lines plugged from the carb AND manifold ports?
Have you checked for manifold/carb mounting surfaces being true as well as mating surfaces of carb parts? Are you sure your getting a good fuel squirt?
Just throwing some ideas out there.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,259
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Take the #s off the metering block and make sure you get the correct one. They are not all the same.Both are identical
Question: when you say you rebuilt the carb, did you hot tank all the parts including the metering block? No Did you use high pressureair with a small needle nose gun to blow out ALL the air passages and check to make sure air was coming out the other end of those holes.Yes
Also make sure you got the correct metering gaskets on both sides of the block. There are some differences.Confirmed correct
I've worked on a good many Holley carbs and found that most problems were the blocks being plugged from gunk (old dried up fuel ).
Have you tried running it with ALL vacuum lines plugged from the carb AND manifold ports?Yes
Have you checked for manifold/carb mounting surfaces being true as well as mating surfaces of carb parts? Yes, mostly (as made aware by Christmas below, I did not check carb bottom and mating base plate surface for flatness although have since checked and neither seem bad) Are you sure your getting a good fuel squirt?Yes
Just throwing some ideas out there.
Question: when you say you rebuilt the carb, did you hot tank all the parts including the metering block? No Did you use high pressureair with a small needle nose gun to blow out ALL the air passages and check to make sure air was coming out the other end of those holes.Yes
Also make sure you got the correct metering gaskets on both sides of the block. There are some differences.Confirmed correct
I've worked on a good many Holley carbs and found that most problems were the blocks being plugged from gunk (old dried up fuel ).
Have you tried running it with ALL vacuum lines plugged from the carb AND manifold ports?Yes
Have you checked for manifold/carb mounting surfaces being true as well as mating surfaces of carb parts? Yes, mostly (as made aware by Christmas below, I did not check carb bottom and mating base plate surface for flatness although have since checked and neither seem bad) Are you sure your getting a good fuel squirt?Yes
Just throwing some ideas out there.
I have since installed Ford 4100 carb. Tuned to best of my ability. Truck runs better than it ever has.
I will closely watch to see if similar symptoms develop over time. Perhaps small undetectable vacuum leak is present which is not affecting ford carb. Otherwise, I'm completely stumped. May remain one of life's unsolved mysteries.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 713
I did not. I most likely didn't check the mating side of the base plate either
Just looked at original holley and wouldn't say it's bad. Definitely a bit off, mostly confined to center area where the 4 bores meet. Might give that a whirl, although gasket does look like it compressed evenly and well. I did flatten sides where metering block mounts and also the base plate where mates to intake.
Just looked at original holley and wouldn't say it's bad. Definitely a bit off, mostly confined to center area where the 4 bores meet. Might give that a whirl, although gasket does look like it compressed evenly and well. I did flatten sides where metering block mounts and also the base plate where mates to intake.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 3,554
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I did mine with files and 220 and 400 wet dry. My metering plate sides were about .025" out each and the base was .030" . This is not a fast process, about 6hrs. I do expect it to work much better. Let you know when I install it.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
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What improvements do you anticipate? Was it not performing well before? What's odd to me is that both carbs have exactly same symptoms. With the 1st carb being an issue that it recently developed, as it was performing well for over 2yrs. The 2nd carb, I don't know anything as far as how good it used to be as I bought it used.
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