When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got the pertronix delivered this morning and am proceeding to chase down these gremlins. As I mentioned, I think my issues are due to the wiring and its lack of constant voltage. I want to work these out before I install the new module. Don't like just throwing parts at something. Want to definitively know cause of problems, then fix.
So, checking voltage, here's what I've found so far;
KOEO- 6.5volts at coil, solenoid (ignition), and fuse panel***
KOER- 12.6volts at all above locations
Question now, is this correct? Doesn't seem right
Now plan to check wiring to fuse panel. Also plan to remove original resistor wire (pink) and use external ballast resistor, all wired new.
Thoughts?
****edit: note to self, don't use brake pedal arm as ground. 12v now confirmed at fuse panel. All else remains unchanged.
Ended yesterday without much progress. Raised idle to 1000rpms, when shift into gear drops to 525rpms. Can barely crawl on its own. Spoke to a mechanic friend of mine who said can't be torque converter since no clutch in old COM. That's beyond my knowledge, but will speak to guy who did the rebuild on the trans.
Plan for today is to start from beginning with clear head. Compression, fuel, spark. Will swap out carburetor on chance I did something wrong on the rebuild. These engines are simple. Gotta be overlooking something stupid.
Compression test results;
cyl 1-105
2-127
3-120
4-125
5-118
6-105
7-118
8-120
Adjusted for altitude (15.5% loss @ 5500ft) does not seem terrible. Rings are worn (knew that 10,000 miles ago) confirmed by squirt of oil in cyl 6 raises compression to 125
Those compression numbers are low. My 352 has a zillion miles on it and tests at 130 for all, but that's on the high side for a high-miler. I had a 360 that tested 90-100 and it still ran okay, but didn't win any races. However, yours should still run fine with those numbers.
I still think the problem is spark intensity, or lack of it. Have you "accidentally" tested spark output with your body, well-grounded? It should just about make you jump out of your shoes. If you haven't done that, get a volunteer...
Eric
Those compression numbers are low. My 352 has a zillion miles on it and tests at 130 for all, but that's on the high side for a high-miler. I had a 360 that tested 90-100 and it still ran okay, but didn't win any races. However, yours should still run fine with those numbers.
I still think the problem is spark intensity, or lack of it. Have you "accidentally" tested spark output with your body, well-grounded? It should just about make you jump out of your shoes. If you haven't done that, get a volunteer...
Eric
As far as compression goes, once adjusted for altitude the range would be 120 to 145. While not ideal, it's not terrible. I agree, should run fine though.
Since moving on to fuel, have found good up to carb. I think my first mistake was to think that the 2 issues were related (stall and weak spark). I don't believe they are. I also allowed myself to overlook the fact that after a stall, I would need to give a squirt in order to restart. After confirming good fuel up to carb, I have swapped on an old Autolite that I had rebuilt some years ago. In process of tuning that now. So far, idling about 800 drops to about 550 no stall. Moves on its own in gear.
Easiest way to check spark quality is to get a new spark plug an make one of these. Just unplug a wire, plug in the test plug ground it and start it up. It will run just fine on 7 cylinders and you won't have to say bad words.
Easiest way to check spark quality is to get a new spark plug an make one of these. Just unplug a wire, plug in the test plug ground it and start it up. It will run just fine on 7 cylinders and you won't have to say bad words.
With autolite carb on and adjusted best I can (linkage required some creativity, and can't get it to idle less than 800 consistently). Engine idles a bit rough. Can shift into gear and accelerate. One thing that seems consistent with the holley is that when it does stall, will not restart without a squirt or 2.
So, after tuning the autolite as best I am capable (nowhere near 100%) Truck idles (a bit shaky) at 725ish. In gear, holds 525ish. Took it for a test drive and it runs strong. No hesitation. Even lays some rubber. Do believe now that problem lies with the holley carb. What could it be though? Same problem before and after the rebuild.
I have another holley which I will rebuild and install. Would really like to figure out what went wrong with the first one though.
Have you put a vacuum gauge on it yet? This might give you some info. Sure you don't have a leak? You said in your first post you checked for leaks. I would go over it again and double check things. With it being shaky and a high idle I suspect a leak. Just saw #4 post . Have you checked your intake to head side for a leak?
Have you put a vacuum gauge on it yet? This might give you some info. Sure you don't have a leak? You said in your first post you checked for leaks. I would go over it again and double check things. With it being shaky and a high idle I suspect a leak. Just saw #4 post . Have you checked your intake to head side for a leak?
Vacuum with the holley holds steady at 13. With the autolite I can achieve 18, also steady. Even adjusted for altitude, the holley seems low. Perhaps something going on there. With both carbs I have checked and rechecked for leaks at all hoses/connections, around carb and plates, and intake bolts. Found no leaks. Again, adjusted for altitude, the autolite readings seem good, and would be surprised to achieve higher. How can you check intake to head?
