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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 12:55 AM
  #1  
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Cheap but reliable modifications

I just finished the body work on my 91 f250 7.3l non turbo and was looking to pump up the power a little without breaking the bank any suggestions?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 05:52 AM
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only way to add any real power to these engines is with a turbo.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
only way to add any real power to these engines is with a turbo.
This, x1000

I personally fought for years to try one thing after another to see if I could do any better. Sure, if your engine is smoking badly right now(white/gray smoke), you can "gain power" by getting new injectors and and IP; getting it back to factory power levels.

But when it comes to basically anything beyond that... you just don't have the air. Ford basically pushed the NA motor as far as they safely could stock; air's the sticking point.

Give it air(turbo time!) and you can easily double the power while the engine is kept cooler and happier.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 07:14 PM
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Any suggestions on kits or using a factory ats
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 91bronzedbeauty250
Any suggestions on kits or using a factory ats
They all perform close enough to each other. Some people prefer the ats 093 or the banks sidewinder as there both wastegated turbos.

Personally I like where banks/hypermax/cts mount there turbos as there direct center and out of the way.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 10:22 PM
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for right at 100 bux you can get complete OEM turbo setup from Pull-A-Part, I just grabbed one a few months back to sell to a member of another Group I'm in.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 11:47 AM
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I got a 7.3l IDIT from a salvage yard last summer for about $600. It has all of the turbo parts except for the air cleaner and the driver's side to passenger's side exhaust pipe.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Olds64
I got a 7.3l IDIT from a salvage yard last summer for about $600. It has all of the turbo parts except for the air cleaner and the driver's side to passenger's side exhaust pipe.
Pull-A-Part is my goto place, in fact they just put an F250 IDI out so I need to go hit that today and see what goodies I can score...

$63.05 Plus $3.15 Environmental Fee and state tax for Injection Pump

EDIT: you can go to the Pull-A-Part website and look up the price of any part, Best Junque Yard I ever found.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2019 | 07:19 PM
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If i had to rank them, i would: R&D > ats 093 > factory > banks sidewinder II > ats 088 > sidewinder > baby banks > ats 085 > hypermax. Theres others, not likely to find, and i wouldnt use. The ats is better than the banks due to sizing, support, more common, easier to upgrade, easier to work on, and frankly im just not a fan of banks.
 
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Old Aug 13, 2019 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
If i had to rank them, i would: R&D > ats 093 > factory > banks sidewinder II > ats 088 > sidewinder > baby banks > ats 085 > hypermax. Theres others, not likely to find, and i wouldnt use. The ats is better than the banks due to sizing, support, more common, easier to upgrade, easier to work on, and frankly im just not a fan of banks.
From a 'having run both' perspective, I prefer the Banks(wastegated) to the factory turbo if you can get it - it spools faster, slightly smaller(perfect for the maximum a stock IP can ever put out cranked up).
The turbo also is positioned better such that it's not such a pain to get to the #5 and #7 glow plug and injectors(unlike the ATS/Factory kits).

For a more high-power rig(over about 200-220 RWHP), that's when you start wanting a modded 093 or factory kit or R&D kit especially. The Banks and stock factory kit just can't handle the flow.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
From a 'having run both' perspective, I prefer the Banks(wastegated) to the factory turbo if you can get it - it spools faster, slightly smaller(perfect for the maximum a stock IP can ever put out cranked up).
The turbo also is positioned better such that it's not such a pain to get to the #5 and #7 glow plug and injectors(unlike the ATS/Factory kits).

For a more high-power rig(over about 200-220 RWHP), that's when you start wanting a modded 093 or factory kit or R&D kit especially. The Banks and stock factory kit just can't handle the flow.
I never liked where ats put the turbo because it is a pita to get to things in that area of the motor.

The non waste gated banks probably flows better up top if all out performance is your end goal.

I didn't care for mine (non wastegated banks) because it would never build boost down low where I mainly rev the motor. Seemed counter productive fuel mileage wise to be revving the motor high to tow at low speeds. It's a bit smoky without the turbo but for now it gets the job done and that's the main thing. Empty it has plenty of power unless you get out on the highway in forth gear.

If I ever go turbo I'll be looking to vgt it. There's just so many benefits to having an adjustable turbo. Outside of the periodic maintenance (cleaning) of the unison ring I see no downside.

I also love the way the idi sounds. And that banks turbo killed all the noise.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by DarkOverCast
If I ever go turbo I'll be looking to vgt it. There's just so many benefits to having an adjustable turbo. Outside of the periodic maintenance (cleaning) of the unison ring I see no downside.
I want to do this someday myself. Would love to be able to pull a lever and "pre-spool" the turbo at idle. Set it all up mechanically/pneumatically and have something fun to drive and unique!
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 11:28 AM
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VGT is Great on Paper, not so much in real life, maybe some of the newer ones are not as failure prone... IDK
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 11:59 AM
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The 6.0l PSD had a VGT, didn't it? I also thought the regen mode the 6.4l PSD used to clean the VGT was a "thorn in the side."
 
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Old Aug 14, 2019 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by lonewolf_
VGT is Great on Paper, not so much in real life, maybe some of the newer ones are not as failure prone... IDK
They keep using them, dont they?

IIRC, even with the 6.0 VGT it wasn't failure so much as just getting sticky. So have an accessible lever/cable that you can manually just shove the vanes back and forth a few times if it seems like it's not moving freely and... no more problem!
 
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