Just had truck at the dealer yesterday with a sluggish start, oil change, P203B code, and needed brakes on front.

Dealer called and said that my driver side battery was testing 350CCA out of 750CCA. Also, the positive battery cable terminal was so corroded that it was only hanging on by a thread.
Being as you can't just replace the battery cable, I would have to buy a wiring harness at $650 + labor & taxes. It is also on backorder.

Just to let you guys know, I replaced the terminal with a bolt on but there is not hardly any slack in that cable. I ended up have to remove the plastic channel that is attached to the coolant overflow tank to get it to reach.

Really bums me out that I had to "fix" my truck this way, but I can't see fixing one bad terminal for $650.

So, if you havn't yet, coat those factory terminals in some protectant to keep them from suffering the same fate as mine.

Truck has ~62,000 miles on it.

 

You would think there is a cheaper way to replace a battery cable. Never was very handy under the hood but could do a few things. Replaced the positive battery cable on my Titan last year. Had to buy online cause of special connector to a fuse assembly.

 

Just cut the cables and splice them, easy enough job and gets rid of the terrible factory ends.

 

How would you recommend splicing those wires? Are crimping tools for that gauge wire affordable by mortals?

 

did the corrosion occur between the clamp and the post or elsewhere?

 

I was picturing buying a 'generic' terminated cable of the proper gauge, cutting-off the 'eye end', then 'intermingling' the strands and soldering them thoroughly, then covering the splice with liquid electrical tape and rubber tape.

 

What is the melting temperature of the solder you were picturing using?

What is the temperature of the battery cable during high current demand starts?

When the engine is starting, what is the amplitude of vibration during the crank cycle?

Have you have seen an original equipment manufacturer solder battery cables together in a vehicle?

 

I use Glue lined heat shrink, barrel splices and solid terminals. A company called Quick Cable makes the parts and supplies the majority of the industry. I get them at Grainger. You can also do full solder instead of crimping, the crimping is much faster. I use a handheld hydraulic cable press I picked up off Ebay and it works well. For the battery cable I suggest you use flex welding cable, all this should be available locally.

 

Yes, you can buy large gauge butt connectors, some heat shrink that is adhesive lined, and a crimper that fits them for under $100. That will be way cheaper than a $650 battery cable...why does it need a whole harness?

Here is an example of a crimper and cable cutter for $30 that does up to 1/0 cable.

 

Gee, I don't have answers to any of these, perhaps someone else out there will answer them for you, sorry I can't help you...

 

 

The answers are not needed by me. I would never consider soldering battery cables in the manner that you described. And if you don't have the answers to any of those questions, then you may want to investigate before blend soldering main battery starting cables without a mechanical means of connection.

 

Prevention is better than the Cure. When the battery becomes mismatched half will hog all the available current and the other will outgas excessively. Short trips. That's what causes the corrosion, is excessive outgassing. Periodic use of a properly "sized" external charger should keep each battery half equalized and should really help to minimize this problem.

 

NO-OX-ID "A-SPECIAL by Sanchem, Inc...electrically conductive grease, https://www.sanchem.com/electrical-c...lubricant.html ...

 

If you need to replace cables, look for a local company that does alternator/generator/ starter motor rebuilds. Often they're set up to make custom cables. If you're in Southwest/south central PA, I can give you the name of a reputable shop that does this.