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ok, my 90 did exact same, the power from underdash isn’t making it to starter solenoid. I had to find the wire broken cut it there, and run a whole new wire to solenoid.
I don't get it?
Turn the key to run it shows no life, no gauges or lights.
Turn the key to start / crank it will crank / turn over and start then release the key to run and it stays running?
Or
Key does nothing in crank / start.
Leave it in run and jump out the solenoid and it will crank / turn over and run.
Or
It will only run if you hot wire it and jump the solenoid.
So is it 1 or 2 or 3?
Dave ----
Again everyone has failed the diagnostic part of checking for the source of problems.
From what I gather the truck will run the start position and if the solenoid is jumped to the I (ignition) terminal on the solenoid.
So if this is the case there are 2 possible issues either the TFI module (the grey thing on the distributor with the connector) is not getting voltage in the run position or the run circuit in the module has failed.
You are going to need to check for voltage at the TFI connector in the run position wire if you have voltage the module has failed if not it is a wiring/ switch issue.
I don't get it?
Turn the key to run it shows no life, no gauges or lights.
Turn the key to start / crank it will crank / turn over and start then release the key to run and it stays running?
Or
Key does nothing in crank / start.
Leave it in run and jump out the solenoid and it will crank / turn over and run.
Or
It will only run if you hot wire it and jump the solenoid.
So is it 1 or 2 or 3?
Dave ----
Scenario 3. I have the ignition switch unmounted from the column so I can access it easier and manipulate it with a screwdriver (the linkage is broke from the key mechanism as well). I am getting no constant hot to the ignition switch that I can tell. As I said in a previous post it's a new ignition switch but when I engage it, nothing.
However, if I go and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, the engine turns over and starts fine but will not stay running because it's not got the signal from the ignition switch to stay running (because there's no power to it I'm guessing).
Again everyone has failed the diagnostic part of checking for the source of problems.
From what I gather the truck will run the start position and if the solenoid is jumped to the I (ignition) terminal on the solenoid.
So if this is the case there are 2 possible issues either the TFI module (the grey thing on the distributor with the connector) is not getting voltage in the run position or the run circuit in the module has failed.
You are going to need to check for voltage at the TFI connector in the run position wire if you have voltage the module has failed if not it is a wiring/ switch issue.
Scenario 3. I have the ignition switch unmounted from the column so I can access it easier and manipulate it with a screwdriver (the linkage is broke from the key mechanism as well). I am getting no constant hot to the ignition switch that I can tell. As I said in a previous post it's a new ignition switch but when I engage it, nothing.
However, if I go and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver, the engine turns over and starts fine but will not stay running because it's not got the signal from the ignition switch to stay running (because there's no power to it I'm guessing).
OK got it now, new switch not bolted because the linkage is busted and when you move the switch with screw driver you get nothing, no light or gauges inside and no crank.
You can check what Matthew posted but if what you said and I understand right you will not get power there.
Using a test light at the INN switch do you get any power on any of the wires and if so what color are they?
Did you swap out the solenoid? If so are all the smaller wires with eyelets on the large stud on the stud the battery positive is on?
Would not be the first time someone put them on the one going to the starter.
Dave ----
OK got it now, new switch not bolted because the linkage is busted and when you move the switch with screw driver you get nothing, no light or gauges inside and no crank.
You can check what Matthew posted but if what you said and I understand right you will not get power there.
Using a test light at the INN switch do you get any power on any of the wires and if so what color are they?
Did you swap out the solenoid? If so are all the smaller wires with eyelets on the large stud on the stud the battery positive is on?
Would not be the first time someone put them on the one going to the starter.
Dave ----
This is how everything was wired at the solenoid when I bought the truck and it started and ran as it should (until the mishaps). You can see the fried fuse links here. Hot from the battery on top, red/blue ignition on its own hot terminal, and everything else on the other side of the solenoid. Here's the new solenoid with new fuse links all wired exactly as before. These are the diagrams I'm working off of. This is on the back side of the connector that goes to the ignition switch. From what I can gather, the two 10ga yellow wires are supposed to power everything after the red/blue is engaged with the switch. But I very likely could be missing/misinterpreting something and this is where I need some guidance.
Sorry everything uploaded in a weird order. Technology stinks.
This is how everything was wired at the solenoid when I bought the truck and it started and ran as it should (until the mishaps). You can see the fried fuse links here. Hot from the battery on top, red/blue ignition on its own hot terminal, and everything else on the other side of the solenoid. Here's the new solenoid with new fuse links all wired exactly as before. These are the diagrams I'm working off of. This is on the back side of the connector that goes to the ignition switch. From what I can gather, the two 10ga yellow wires are supposed to power everything after the red/blue is engaged with the switch. But I very likely could be missing/misinterpreting something and this is where I need some guidance.
Sorry everything uploaded in a weird order. Technology stinks.
Looking at the 2 pictures of the solenoid it looks like you have the cables as wires switched around.
Top picture you say top cable is battery hot and it worked that way?? I can't see how it could as the wire need to be on the same stud as the battery hot is.
Also look at the cables top picture that worked the kink is on the bottom as so are the wires.
Next picture the kink cable is at the top and the other cable on the bottom with the wires.
Read my post above on how the cables & wires go. I think you have the wires on the cable going to the starter.
Dave ----
Looking at the 2 pictures of the solenoid it looks like you have the cables as wires switched around.
Top picture you say top cable is battery hot and it worked that way?? I can't see how it could as the wire need to be on the same stud as the battery hot is.
Also look at the cables top picture that worked the kink is on the bottom as so are the wires.
Next picture the kink cable is at the top and the other cable on the bottom with the wires.
Read my post above on how the cables & wires go. I think you have the wires on the cable going to the starter.
Dave ----
I'm almost certain you're right. (I'm also burning with frustration now, lol!) This may be a classic example of thinking way too hard and being blind to the simple fixes. I won't be home to switch them until this evening but will update with results.
If that is what it is you are not the first to do that and thinking not the last LOL
Dave ----
Well, after two months of late nights messing with this thing, studying the schematics and chatting on the forum. It turns out I just had the wrong wires on the solenoid terminals. I did replace every fuselink in the system though, so that's reassuring.
Well, after two months of late nights messing with this thing, studying the schematics and chatting on the forum. It turns out I just had the wrong wires on the solenoid terminals. I did replace every fuselink in the system though, so that's reassuring.
She runs like new again.
Thanks for all your help and extra set of eyes!!
Good to hear it is running again. I posted before about the wires & cables saying the same thing guess I was not clear.
Now enjoy that truck
Dave ----
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